[Speedhunter]

What happens when the wire size is undersized and cannot pass the amount of current that the amplifier can safely take? That's why you fuse for the wire, not the amplifier.

This is the dumbest comparison, generalisation and statement i've heard in a while!
By totaly different scenario you chose what to do in another. Maybe someone is going to read this and think he is safe to install a system with underated wire if he fuse it by the wire rating.
This is just plain wrong thinking and installation! @ItsonlyaHONDA is good example trying to run 400A throught 0AWG wire.

Overrated wire gives you better voltage drop index which most people in car audio are hunting for.
Here we are speaking about 80A fused amp and non classified 4Awg wire. For starters lets believe that this wire is able to push 140A. Did any of you actualy take in to the account how long is the wire or does it go through the engine(heat). If you actualy insert this into the ISO or ABYC calculator you would see how current drops. One more thing wire current rating is max rating and fuse needs to be at least 20% ->this actual electrical rule.

 

[Slave2myXJ]

ItsonlyaHONDA

https://rexel-cdn.com/Products/Ilsco/CPM-4-0.pdf?i=5F3D5074-08E1-454C-81A5-B96FB8DA81F5

and then hope the terminals don't melt. In the "real world", a 3/8" bolted joint is good for 250A.

 

[gijoe]

This is the dumbest comparison, generalisation and statement i've heard in a while!
By totaly different scenario you chose what to do in another. Maybe someone is going to read this and think he is safe to install a system with underated wire if he fuse it by the wire rating.
This is just plain wrong thinking and installation! @ItsonlyaHONDA is good example trying to run 400A throught 0AWG wire.

Overrated wire gives you better voltage drop index which most people in car audio are hunting for.
Here we are speaking about 80A fused amp and non classified 4Awg wire. For starters lets believe that this wire is able to push 140A. Did any of you actualy take in to the account how long is the wire or does it go through the engine(heat). If you actualy insert this into the ISO or ABYC calculator you would see how current drops. One more thing wire current rating is max rating and fuse needs to be at least 20% ->this actual electrical rule.

See post #35.

Plenty of people don't know any better, and others just use what they have. If they only have 8awg, and they fuse to the wire, they won't set their car on fire, even if the amplifier is capable of much more power than 8awg can support.

Not sure how you read my post and thought I was advocating for undersized wire.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

I understand all that and your missing my point. I'm not using some cheap 4k amp from Amazon. Its an MMATS, and they are known for good quality amps. Why would they only have 1 0 gauge input and suggest a 400A fuse is what I was wondering. It's a Full bridge amp which I think pull less current as long as I'm not burping test tones full tilt at 1ohm. And most of the time I don't run my system full power cuz it gets loud AF when I'm running at 1ohm. Matter of fact I'll be running this with a D4 Brahma X at 2ohms so I know I'm not going to melt anything.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

And according to this my wire is an equivalent to 2/0 and like I said less that 3' run.

 

[Speedhunter]

See post #35.

Plenty of people don't know any better, and others just use what they have. If they only have 8awg, and they fuse to the wire, they won't set their car on fire, even if the amplifier is capable of much more power than 8awg can support.

Not sure how you read my post and thought I was advocating for undersized wire.

It should be said to that person to upgrade wire at least to the load or more and chose fuse accordingly! I agree about the fire but this approach with the fuse is wrong.
I don't separate the fact that fuse is chosen by the wire raiting if its chosen according to load not under or excessive above.

 

[Speedhunter]

I understand all that and your missing my point. I'm not using some cheap 4k amp from Amazon. Its an MMATS, and they are known for good quality amps. Why would they only have 1 0 gauge input and suggest a 400A fuse is what I was wondering. It's a Full bridge amp which I think pull less current as long as I'm not burping test tones full tilt at 1ohm. And most of the time I don't run my system full power cuz it gets loud AF when I'm running at 1ohm. Matter of fact I'll be running this with a D4 Brahma X at 2ohms so I know I'm not going to melt anything.

That terminal is short and by that can handle the current. That same cut sized cable with lenght of 9ft(usual lenght from engine to trunk) woulld fall somewhere in 200-250A if i remember correctly. From your posts i believe you are SPL guy so you probably run short lenght cable or as you said you don't have plan to run that much power. Also you can always buy upsize adapter for the terminal for bigger wire.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

That terminal is short and by that can handle the current. That same cut sized cable with lenght of 9ft(usual lenght from engine to trunk) woulld fall somewhere in 200-250A if i remember correctly. From your posts i believe you are SPL guy so you probably run short lenght cable or as you said you don't have plan to run that much power. Also you can always buy upsize adapter for the terminal for bigger wire.

SPL guy? Lol so cuz I run bigger power to my subs I'm an SPL guy. If you read what I posted my wire run from my lithium batteries is less than 3' with knukonceptz KOL 1/0 my run from front to rear batteries is fused at 250A at both sides. And I'm sure my amp terminals will handle any load it pulls. I'm not worried about buring anything down or melting anything, everything is properly fused and grounded. I was just wondering why MMATS will ask for a 400A fuse with a single 0 Gauge terminal on a full bridge amp. Take taramps smart 3k for instance. Rated 3K and suggest a 150A fuse because with music that's more than its going to pull.

 

[Speedhunter]

@ItsonlyaHONDA sorry if i sounded cruel by refering you as a SPL guy, didn't have that intention.

That terminal is short and by that can handle the current.

Here I covered your question about terminal on the amplifier. I think its self explanatory.
I am realy tired of this discussion so im going out for a while.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

@ItsonlyaHONDA sorry if i sounded cruel by refering you as a SPL guy, didn't have that intention.




Here I covered your question about terminal on the amplifier. I think its self explanatory.
I am realy tired of this discussion so im going out for a while.

Lol dont worry there's nothing any one here can say to me on here to offend me. I just thought it was funny, And I never asked a question about my terminals you just decided to @me and talk about bad installation when you have no idea wtf is going on. I see you, with all your negativity towards every one and absolutely 0 help to any one.

 

[miniSQ]

Yup i just had to click in here to see how a simple fuse question could get to 3 pages. Now i know, and tbh i knew before i clicked in. Good luck with your discussion gentleman.