[Jonas k]

Hi,
I have a 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L (without nav) and I recently Installed all new door speakers and dash tweeters. I used JBL club series speakers and kept the original head unit, and they sound fantastic with good frequency range and crisp sound. Though these 6 inch coaxial speakers have a good bass response, they are unable to produce the loud rumbling low end that a sub could. The car comes with a stock 50 watt sub in the rear right of the trunk that sounds ok, but it really can’t match the volume of the rest of the system. This leaves me wanting to install a new sub. I would like to keep the original head unit and whatever mediocre amp that is in it, and feed a new sub off of the existing sub line. How would I go about doing this? I’m open to using a powered sub, but will that be able to make 300 watts or so out of the tiny 50 watts going to that stock sub? What is my best (and most cost effective) way to go about installing a new sub in the car.

 

[quickaudi07]

Unfortunately you will have to get aftermarket amplifier. And most subs may not fit in you OEM location. Maybe look in Illusion Audio, or Arc Audio, or even Stero Integrity shallow subwoofer. Are are options you just have to sort the size and power, and you will have to get aftermarket amplifier, u less you buy all in one unit with sub and amp build in to a box.

There are more options that i might be missing, but on a cost effective side might be one main issue.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[FAUEE]

I'd buy a toro micro rage mono amp, a line output converter, and a decent sub that fits in your stock box and go from there. I'd guess it's an 8"in a fairly small enclosure. I've used the NVX 8" in that situation in my c4 and been very pleased with it.

 

[DoubleCrown]

You might be able to use the line level inputs into a powered sub. Sounds like it's 2x25w bridged so basically a headunit output. A decent powered 10inch should keep up with the front stage

 

[dumdum]

For a start did you deaden and seal up your doors (takes a day or two to do properly with nice solid baffles… I say this as people for drivers in two hrs then say they don’t have enough bass…)

Being honest I would consider getting an amp or two and dsp to get the most from the front end active (and subwoofer later) as timing and phase is everything! Be that in just a front end for a start or in a full system

passives don’t have a place in a car for me 😏

the difference the two things mentioned will make will be huge!

 

[Jonas k]

You might be able to use the line level inputs into a powered sub. Sounds like it's 2x25w bridged so basically a headunit output. A decent powered 10inch should keep up with the front stage

It appears to have its own output directly from the head unit and the head unit even has the setting for the stock subs volume… does that change anything? I’m pretty sure sure the whole stock system is closer to 400 watts which I think is Impressive for a stock student with 7 speakers. My moms 2021 Volvo only has 168 watts but is so so much louder and richer.

 

[audiobaun]

I would look at a shallow Dayton sub

 

[MythosDreamLab]

I have a Honda Passport, a bit newer (2019), but if you have the same rear "Cubby cut-outs" you can get a custom fiberglass sub enclose made there, which is what I did and then installed an 8" shallow mount Audison sub powered by a 500w mono amp and it provides all the bass I need...!

 

[audiobaun]

I have a Honda Passport, a bit newer (2019), but if you have the same rear "Cubby cut-outs" you can get a custom fiberglass sub enclose made there, which is what I did and then installed an 8" shallow mount Audison sub powered by a 500w mono amp and it provides all the bass I need...!

View attachment 311944

That looks really nice