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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put in some Focal 165 VB component speakers in the front and back of my car. They're powered by an Alpine 4x50W amp. Sub is a 12" JL W3v3 2 ohm with a 500W RMS @ 2ohm Alpine amp. Deck is an Alpine CDA-117. I ran the Imprint calibration. I'm not using any of the high pass filtering on the amp running the Focal's. The gain is set just below nom.

When I had the door panels off I had it pretty loud and the Focal woofers were flexing like crazy! I didn't hear any distortion but it scared me. I didn't think it was too loud either. When should I worry about blowing these speakers? Thanks for any input.
 

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I just put in some Focal 165 VB component speakers in the front and back of my car. They're powered by an Alpine 4x50W amp. Sub is a 12" JL W3v3 2 ohm with a 500W RMS @ 2ohm Alpine amp. Deck is an Alpine CDA-117. I ran the Imprint calibration. I'm not using any of the high pass filtering on the amp running the Focal's. The gain is set just below nom.

When I had the door panels off I had it pretty loud and the Focal woofers were flexing like crazy! I didn't hear any distortion but it scared me. I didn't think it was too loud either. When should I worry about blowing these speakers? Thanks for any input.
There are two ways to damage a speaker- thermally or mechanically...you'll damage them thermally by putting more power to them than they can properly dissipate for extended periods (including clipped amounts of power that happen to exceed the speaker's continuous power rating). You'll damage them mechanically by playing the speakers to the point they approach/meet full excursion for extended periods.

Your speakers can handle a clean 70 watts RMS all day, but driving the Alpine amp into clipping will potentially exceed that, so a proper gain setting technique is important to longevity. Is there any particular reason you don't want to use a high pass filter on them? (full range + loud for those speakers mounted infinite baffle can potentially cause mechanical damage...try a high pass filter on the mids set somewhere between 80-100hz). Your subwoofer will have no problem playing up to meet an acceptable high pass filter point on the Focals.

To avoid damage to speakers, turn it down if audible distortion, mechanical noises or other signs of distress become evident.
 

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>_< GET THEM FILTERS! Like the guy above sad, set HPF to protect them! There is a sweet punch sound you get from your speakers when tuning I noticed. Start with 80 HPF and go up until you can't hear it, then knock it down about 5 Hz and you will be set. That is if you can do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I guess for some reason I thought the Imprint calibration would set the right cross over frequencies but I guess not. I need to find some time to RTFM. :) I'll activate the HP filter on the amp and start at 80 Hz and go up until I find the sweet spot. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm guessing that the LP filter on the sub amp (Alpine MRP-M500) should be set to whatever I set the HP filter on the main speaker amp right?

BTW...that JL Audio sub is a freaking beast. I find it amazing that as hard as it hits and flexes it never shows signs of any stress.
 

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I'm guessing that the LP filter on the sub amp (Alpine MRP-M500) should be set to whatever I set the HP filter on the main speaker amp right?

BTW...that JL Audio sub is a freaking beast. I find it amazing that as hard as it hits and flexes it never shows signs of any stress.
It depends on equipment, vehicle characteristics and your install/tuning and will vary from one installation to the next...some installs benefit from using the same frequency to roll off response from your mids and your sub(s), while other installs may require a slight gap or overlap in crossover point to get a pleasing frequency response and transition from midbass to sub-bass. You'll have to experiment to see what sounds best and then re-run Imprint once everything is properly set up.
 

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I guess for some reason I thought the Imprint calibration would set the right cross over frequencies but I guess not. I need to find some time to RTFM. :) I'll activate the HP filter on the amp and start at 80 Hz and go up until I find the sweet spot. Thanks!
I don't believe your head unit is 3 way active capable, so you'll only have simple high pass capability for speaker and pre-amp outputs on the head unit itself. If you are getting too much excursion in your mids, I would apply a high pass filter- at the amp, at the head unit- whatever offers the crossover point and slope that works best for you.

I have't run Imprint in any way (I'm a manual tuning kind of guy), but I believe it's mostly an auto-EQ tuning tool when used with that specific head unit- hopefully someone experienced in Imprint tuning can chime in.
 
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