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1999 Jeep Wrangler TJ
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Oh thats a neat little board. I actually have a little VU meter kit i bought years ago that will go in the jetta when i ever get around to actually installing in the jetta.

bouncy needles
Oooo, I like that! Retro is fun 馃榿. You getting it?

What is the point?
(You already know you have a problem.)

You could end up chipping at the meter when you drive, and the lights are reacting fast enough to tell you.

A data logger running at say, 100 Hz, would be dandy.
Good question! Three reasons:

1. It's shiny.
2. I got it at a good price, and the data logger I want is a few times what I paid for this.
3. It's SHINY!

It's pretty and I like it. I'm slowly turning my twenty year old Jeep's interior into the cockpit of a spaceship.

So shiny 馃榿
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
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馃槷

Install it! It'll give your car a whole Fallout vibe. Heck, I kind of want one.
The idea has always been to keep it old school ish, and I aint paining for macintosh or denon VU meters hahha

I'd about kill for one of these though. They pop up on ebay all the time, I'm just not willing to pay $300 for a deck that no longer serves any real function aside from being pretty.

Plant Packaging and labeling Box Gadget Cassette deck
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The idea has always been to keep it old school ish, and I aint paining for macintosh or denon VU meters hahha

I'd about kill for one of these though. They pop up on ebay all the time, I'm just not willing to pay $300 for a deck that no longer serves any real function aside from being pretty.

View attachment 317388
I love it! I think that would be awesome for a build. Something really cool about a precision tuned system running from something that looks like it should be driving a tube amp.

Hey, aesthetics are important. Adds to the feel, adds to the experience. I'd say it's justified. Just don't tell your wife what you paid for it 馃槅.

Uhhh cd player, that's a function.
Hahahahaha, very true!
 

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if you're taking these voltage measurements, you might want to take video of the VM-1, then you can replay the video and slow it down and really see the min voltages. just an idea.

also, just want to re-iterate/save you the work, you do not need a fuse inline for these voltage measurements. it might even affect your measurements a little. maybe it won't but..... for sure it's extra work you do not need to do. when you are taking voltage measurements, for car audio, it is a non-invasive type measurement. you will not affect anything by hooking up the measurements leads.
just in the order of connecting everything up, make sure you make the connection the battery is the last physical connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
yeah! MC
if you're taking these voltage measurements, you might want to take video of the VM-1, then you can replay the video and slow it down and really see the min voltages. just an idea.

also, just want to re-iterate/save you the work, you do not need a fuse inline for these voltage measurements. it might even affect your measurements a little. maybe it won't but..... for sure it's extra work you do not need to do. when you are taking voltage measurements, for car audio, it is a non-invasive type measurement. you will not affect anything by hooking up the measurements leads.
just in the order of connecting everything up, make sure you make the connection the battery is the last physical connection.
Ooooo, good idea on the video, I'll definitely do that. It would be handy to reference. I'd like to compare the before and after my Big 3 install in a week or two (waiting on parts, fusible links take a while to ship).

If I tap into an existing line I certainly won't waste the effort on a fuse. I appreciate that.
 

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I would put voltmeter on battery or on the distribution block. But Voltmeter will not solve any issues that you have,....find those issues and solve them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I would put voltmeter on battery or on the distribution block. But Voltmeter will not solve any issues that you have,....find those issues and solve them.
That's definitely the plan. Just trying to get a baseline and to see the effects of the fixes I enact. Plus, I figure, if nothing else, I can use the meter to see if I'm running the bass too hard at any given moment.

I'm waiting on my fusible link to arrive so that I can install my big 3 kit, along with cleaning up the ground contact points. I'm going to replace the battery soon (mine was drained for too long and is at something like 70% capacity) and I'll be upgrading my alternator early next year. The alt is twenty years old, I imagine it's not long for this world.

If there is anything else I can do to improve things I'll certainly try it. The meter isn't a solution, just offers a metric to work with that is above what I can currently see with my DMM and slow-sampling OBD2 data logger.
 

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Definitely use a fuse , the fuse is not about protecting equipment , it's there in case of an accident or short circuit in the wiring so as not to create a fire in the wiring , especially if you are connecting directly to the battery , everything you connect should have a fuse as close to the power source as possible , not using fuses is just asking for trouble.

The fuse will not affect the voltage measurements as so little current is needed to measure the voltage there is no voltage drop across the fuse to affect the reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Definitely use a fuse , the fuse is not about protecting equipment , it's there in case of an accident or short circuit in the wiring so as not to create a fire in the wiring , especially if you are connecting directly to the battery , everything you connect should have a fuse as close to the power source as possible , not using fuses is just asking for trouble.

The fuse will not affect the voltage measurements as so little current is needed to measure the voltage there is no voltage drop across the fuse to affect the reading.
Totally agree! Glad to hear that the a fuse wouldn't impact measurements. I decided to run the meter directly to the amp so I can see what's happening there in case of clipping. Think I still need a fuse? It's about six feet of sixteen gauge wire

.
What is the point?
(You already know you have a problem.)

You could end up chimping at the meter when you drive, and the lights dimming are already reacting fast enough to tell you.

A data logger running at say, 100 Hz, would be dandy.
You gave me an idea. Why not have the meter at the amp and use a data logger for the overall system? My reasoning might be flawed, but it seems the first voltage drop would be at the sub amp, and I can be more certain I won't clip by starving the amp, though overdriving the amp is still a concern.

So far, I'm not seeing any dangerous drops at the sub amp, so I'm rather pleased. Now the head scratcher: after installing this thing my headlights are barely dimming. I've pushed this amp harder than normal and still. Weirdest thing. I didn't mess with any connections other than removing the positive to the battery, and that's a connection I've removed and reconnected quite a few times, so I can't imagine I displaced any corrosion. No idea.
 
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You gave me an idea. Why not have the meter at the amp and use a data logger for the overall system? My reasoning might be flawed, 鈥
I do not see how a data logging scheme can be flawed.

I run one of my volt meters back at my 2nd lithium battery鈥 so when I walk by the back I can see it at 13.2-13.3V generally.

There is also one on the dashboard, but I need to be inside, and the engine needs to be running. It is usually north of 14-1/4V.

The Blue Sea VoltMeter is right behind (in front of) the tail light.
It is trying to say 13.20V.
It鈥檚 connected straight to one of the two lithium batteries which are disconnected from the starting battery when the engine is off.

The Dingo Beer sticker adds a touch of class.
I should probably add a sticker from https://www.dingoatemytaco.com/

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Road surface Asphalt Bumper
 

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I think you just found one of the causes of your dimming , not a very good connection to the battery positive terminal.

By removing/installing the positive battery terminal you improved the connection which meant you weren't getting as much voltage drop across this connection , you need to make sure this is as good as it can be as all your power is being drawn from this.

If your lights are still still dimming then you will need to replace/upgrade your battery.

Yes always fit a fuse , it doesn't matter the gauge of the wire , any gauge wire can melt the insulation and catch fire.
 

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I love it! I think that would be awesome for a build. Something really cool about a precision tuned system running from something that looks like it should be driving a tube amp.

Hey, aesthetics are important. Adds to the feel, adds to the experience. I'd say it's justified. Just don't tell your wife what you paid for it 馃槅.



Hahahahaha, very true!
OT, but Panasonic made one with tubes, look up the Panasonic Bottlehead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
@MercuryFlint did you get the VM-1 in? any results? what was your minimum voltage you observed?
Hey there!

I did! It was a PITA to install, but it's done. I accidently tapped into a full power cord instead of a remote turn-on wire for the remote turn-on, and it left me trying the wrong fixes for an hour 馃檮.

It's great! Pretty as heck, and it does this little animation when it turns on that I love. So far, when the vehicle is running, I'm not dropping much below 13 V at the amp, so at least there's no voltage drop to the sub, and this leads me to think the headlight dimming isn't from the amp pulling too much power. When the vehicle isn't running I'm dropping low, where the meter flashes yellow, which makes sense as I think my battery needs to be replaced (I'll watch next time to see the actual V it hits). It's really neat to see how different bass notes affect the power consumption. Some songs that I didn't expect needed the power are drawing more than songs I would expect to be a heavier drain. It updates super quick, and I haven't noticed it not registering a bass hit.

Well worth the money 馃榿
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I think you just found one of the causes of your dimming , not a very good connection to the battery positive terminal.

By removing/installing the positive battery terminal you improved the connection which meant you weren't getting as much voltage drop across this connection , you need to make sure this is as good as it can be as all your power is being drawn from this.

If your lights are still still dimming then you will need to replace/upgrade your battery.

Yes always fit a fuse , it doesn't matter the gauge of the wire , any gauge wire can melt the insulation and catch fire.
I fully expect that you're right. The headlights still dim, but much less than before. I have my amps tied to the fuse box (the terminals don't have spots for additional accessories) but I'm replacing the terminal clamps with multiple output ones so I can hook them directly to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
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