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Discussion Starter #1
Fellow car audio enthusiasts....I recently upgraded out of the stock Bose system in my Nissan Maxima and replaced the stock speakers up front with JL Audio C5 series 6.5" coaxials, and replaced the stock rear speakers with JL Audio C2 coaxials. I do have a sub, but my question here is about the bass, or lack thereof, with these two pair of speakers. Now coming from a freaking Bose system that had pretty slammin' bass considering it was just stock front and rear speakers, I assumed it was a given that the new JL's, even without the sub, would exceed the bass I was getting with the Bose speakers. Yet it's not even close. When I defeat the crossovers and run both pair of speakers full range, there is practically no bass. If I didn't have the sub, I'd be collosally disappointed. And perhaps as telling is that when I move the crossover from defeated entirely up to 20,30,40,50,60,70,80Hz, there is practically no difference whatsoever in bass output. Now I've heard of cancellation before, but something has to be way off. Any ideas, please!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
 

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Try balancing it one side or the other, doesn't matter which way and see if it gets better. If so, one of the speakers is out of phase.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
what's the full system consist of
- Head unit: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X995
- Front speakers: JL Audio C5-650x coaxials in stock woofer location of '97 Nissan Maxima
- Rear speakers: JL Audio C2-650x coaxials in stock location rear deck
- Amplifier: JL Audio HD900/5
- Subwoofer: JL Audio ProWedge W6v2 sealed sub
 

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Discussion Starter #7
- Head unit: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X995
- Front speakers: JL Audio C5-650x coaxials in stock woofer location of '97 Nissan Maxima
- Rear speakers: JL Audio C2-650x coaxials in stock location rear deck
- Amplifier: JL Audio HD900/5
- Subwoofer: JL Audio ProWedge W6v2 sealed sub
I have my sub set at 80Hz and the front and rears at 70Hz. But as I mentioned, even when the cabin speakers are run full range as they would be if I didn't have a sub, there is NO bass. That's the issue. I am completely satisfied with the bass I get from the sub. But with the main speakers having no bass, I clearly am missing a lot of mid-bass and output at least as strong as what the frigging stock Bose speakers did.
 

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Does it improve when you turn over audio to left or right side only? Try turn off sub and listen if there's any improvement. Also check so you didn't accidently turn on some highpass filter on your amp or in the headunit that shouldn't be there...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does it improve when you turn over audio to left or right side only? Try turn off sub and listen if there's any improvement. Also check so you didn't accidently turn on some highpass filter on your amp or in the headunit that shouldn't be there...
Someone above suggested that also and I said I have tried that and the bass quality and overall sound is the same whether left or right (for both front and rears). I have turned OFF all of the goofball settings in the head unit, and I have defeated the crossovers in the amp in favor of the ones in the head unit, which counterintuitively (to me anyway) sound better. The bass quality I'm speaking of was unaffected by either unit's crossover settings. And again, with ALL crossovers defeated, there is what I would term as practically no midbass to bass output. It's all midrange and high-end. It's driving me mad :mad:
 

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Someone above suggested that also and I said I have tried that and the bass quality and overall sound is the same whether left or right (for both front and rears). I have turned OFF all of the goofball settings in the head unit, and I have defeated the crossovers in the amp in favor of the ones in the head unit, which counterintuitively (to me anyway) sound better. The bass quality I'm speaking of was unaffected by either unit's crossover settings. And again, with ALL crossovers defeated, there is what I would term as practically no midbass to bass output. It's all midrange and high-end. It's driving me mad :mad:
Sorry didn't read all posts... Sounds really wierd. Sure you have the front of the speaker sealed against the back? Is both output from sub and midbasses bad? Might be something wrong with HU or amp even if that's unlikely. If your car is a sedan try moving sub towards back seat and check for improvement. If its not a crossover/phase or installation issue, something must be broken seriously.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry didn't read all posts... Sounds really wierd. Sure you have the front of the speaker sealed against the back? Is both output from sub and midbasses bad? Might be something wrong with HU or amp even if that's unlikely. If your car is a sedan try moving sub towards back seat and check for improvement. If its not a crossover/phase or installation issue, something must be broken seriously.
The sub is awesome. Tons of clean output. Fronts and rears when run full range have no bass.
 

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That's strange. Did you setup your amp input sensativity by ear?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can you check your polarity on your front and rear speakers. Sometimes if you accidentally reverse the polarity on the speakers it doesn't have the bass.
Anyone ever tried to take the door panel off a '97 or so vintage Maxima? What all is involved?
 

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You have to remember that the stock Bose are ultra high sensitivity, ultra lightweight paper cones (mine were anyways). My stock Bose put out more mid bass than my mid basses did until my mid basses started breaking in. Now that my mid basses have about 20 hours of play time, they're breaking in quite nicely and the mid bass is improving significantly.

Have you sealed and deadened your doors?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You have to remember that the stock Bose are ultra high sensitivity, ultra lightweight paper cones (mine were anyways). My stock Bose put out more mid bass than my mid basses did until my mid basses started breaking in. Now that my mid basses have about 20 hours of play time, they're breaking in quite nicely and the mid bass is improving significantly.

Have you sealed and deadened your doors?
I have a fair amount of dynamat in the doors, but I haven't sealed up all the holes. As for playing time, it seems like I should be past the 20 hour mark by now, but maybe not. If they're going to break in to the point where they go from no bass to great bass, that will be something to behold. Hard to believe that stock Bose powered by a Bose headunit is kicking the a** of a pair of JL 6.5" speakers powered by 100 watts per channel from an amp that has been praised universally (JL HD900/5).
 

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Remember too that just because you have a lot more power doesnt mean it will be 5x louder. Roughly 3db gain when you double power is what you get. Also, stock systems are made to use as little power as possible and use very efficient drives, this includes Bose systems.

If the bass isnt really there as much as you say, theres probably a crossover on somewhere... or you have one or more drivers wire out of phase as someone already said, this will kill pretty much all bass.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Remember too that just because you have a lot more power doesnt mean it will be 5x louder. Roughly 3db gain when you double power is what you get. Also, stock systems are made to use as little power as possible and use very efficient drives, this includes Bose systems.
My issue isn't with volume output. It's with what are supposed to be good speakers having no bass. If I turned off the sub and told people what I paid for this set-up and then someone else with the same model car with the stock stereo was there to compare it to, I'd get laughed out of the city. And some of these replies are, perhaps unintentionally, making the case that stock stereos have virtues that aftermarket systems don't have. And my point is that a pair of JL C5 coax's cost $499 retail, and the amp costs $1,199 retail. It should be kicking the crap out of a stock system. And with the sub, indeed it does. Without the sub??? Not so much. And that seems very wrong.
 

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My issue isn't with volume output. It's with what are supposed to be good speakers having no bass. If I turned off the sub and told people what I paid for this set-up and then someone else with the same model car with the stock stereo was there to compare it to, I'd get laughed out of the city. And some of these replies are, perhaps unintentionally, making the case that stock stereos have virtues that aftermarket systems don't have. And my point is that a pair of JL C5 coax's cost $499 retail, and the amp costs $1,199 retail. It should be kicking the crap out of a stock system. And with the sub, indeed it does. Without the sub??? Not so much. And that seems very wrong.
I see your point and its valid, but what you're really paying for is better clarity, less distortion.

I encountered much the same "issue" when I installed my first set of aftermarket speakers. I remember thinking, "Well, it sounds better, but I lost some bass". That was a while ago though.
 
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