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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Which is the better sound quality amp for a pair of Kicker cvr's

Kicker IX1000.1 (11IX1000.1) or Jl Hd750/1 or ZED Minotaur


The kicker price tag is 599.00
The JL price tag is 549.00
Zed 645.00
 

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Which is the better sound quality amp for a pair of Kicker cvr's

Kicker IX1000.1 (11IX1000.1) or Jl Hd750/1 or ZED Minotaur


The kicker price tag is 599.00
The JL price tag is 549.00
Zed 645.00
The one that you listened to prior to plunking down your hard earned cash!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The kicker cvrs I have are 800w rms, final impedence of 2 ohms
Would there be much diference between an entry level 1000 watt class d amp
and a good quality class d amp? I know these are not sq subs, but I am wondering if using a good clean amp would really make them sound better than using an entry level amp.

I don't know if the local audio shops would let me try different amps in the car before I purchased one..
Also, I am not sure if anyone locally sells Zed amps
 

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Would it be a waste to have a good amp on those subs?

How about Sundown amps the Sundown Audio SAX-1200D is only $325.00 much less than the Zed.
nope, good clean power with lots of headroom will make even avg speakers sound better than an amplifier is lesser design.
 

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Which is the better sound quality amp for a pair of Kicker cvr's

Kicker IX1000.1 (11IX1000.1) or Jl Hd750/1 or ZED Minotaur
How much power do you presume to actually need? I'd rather use less power + higher sensitivity woofer (IB) for sound quality, personally, than to expect an amp to fix the sound quality of a woofer with burning up VC
 

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How much power do you presume to actually need? I'd rather use less power + higher sensitivity woofer (IB) for sound quality, personally, than to expect an amp to fix the sound quality of a woofer with burning up VC
higher sensitivity you will be giving up power handling or ability to play low. I would rather have a lower sensitivity sub that plays really low and handles enough power to get loud, while still sounding good.
 

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higher sensitivity you will be giving up power handling or ability to play low. I would rather have a lower sensitivity sub that plays really low and handles enough power to get loud, while still sounding good.
Just how much output 'down low' do you need? As an example of high sensitivity, consider a JBL W15GTI for example, sealed with a lowish Q or in an IB. Don't you think that's excess output down low.after cabin gain with plenty of xmax to spare?. Feed that thing with a basic 150w 4 ohm amp (IE ~110w into 6ohm)and you have way more clean output than most people interested in SQ will ever want, at any frequency. Few mains can keep up with that.

The peerless 830669 is good choice for anyone on a budget, although it won't have crazy 20hz output due to its 8mm xmax it'll dish out more than enough from 30-100hz - and that's where music is situated. model one of these with q = .75 or lower, plus again a 150w / 4 ohm amp (~80w into 4 ohm) and then factor in cabin gain. If it's IB you can do two or three of these for more excursion limited deep output and even higher sensitivity. Besides that though, who cares if it can only mechanically 'handle 80w' due to its high sensitivity? With 80w it's louder across the spectrum than other drivers eith 400+w, while producing less distortion.

The only tradeoff for high sensitivity is that you can't use driver designed for 20hz spam out of shoeboxes. If you think running hundreds of watts through the VC of a typical 85db driver in a suffocated box is the key to good SQ i gotta disagree. If I can do the same thing with 20w that other subs need 200w to do, my sub is coasting along because there's no heat build up causing thermal compression. Heat is not the friend of SQ/ Dynamics. I don't want to be running 1000w through the voice coils of my sub personally. I want my sub to be coasting at high SPLs not be worried about it melting.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was figuring that if rms is 800, the somewhere close to that or a little above would be good, from what I have read.
 

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I was figuring that if rms is 800, the somewhere close to that or a little above would be good, from what I have read.
The rated power handling? It's meaningless unless you're doing some kind of SPL competition.

The W15GTI can handle 800wRMS, but that doesn't mean it needs or even wants that kind of power. Just having power doesn't even mean you're using it. At some point "headroom" becomes "a really expensive useless amp". Driver sensitivity and in-car frequency response is a lot more relevant.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have the kicker comp vr sub box DCVR12 , the 2 ohm final impedence version 800w rms
If you were to select an amp that would allow these to sound their best, what would some top choices be? The box is in the trunk of a 96 toyota camry. I don't really want it to shake all the panels on the car all the time, but at times I want to be able to play it loud and still sound pretty good.

I originally had a JL xd600 amp, but at that time I had a crappy head unit, entry level Pioneer with 2v pre outs. The subs did not have quite the ouput I wanted, so I figured I would try a stronger amp. I then tried a kicker DX 1000. It definately had more output, but the sound was kinda muddy sounding, compared to the JL amp. So I then upgraded my head unit to a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X895 with 4volt pre-outs. This head unit sounds a lot better than the Pioneer I had,much more volume output, and cleaner sounding. This head unit allowed me to turn the gain much lower on the Kicker amp, and it definately made the subs sound better, but I am hoping I can get them to sound a little cleaner than they do.
I wish I still had the Jl xd600 to try again with this new Kenwood head unit, because I may have been pleasantly suprised with how the subs sound on it, but I already returned it, in order to get the Kicker Dx amp.

I don't mind paying for a good quality amp, and may eventually get more of a sq sub setup. I am leaning towards the Jl HD750, but can not decide if that is what I need for my setup.
 

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Sensitivity is measured at 1000 hertz.

Odds are, any of the 3 amps the OP has listed will fit his needs as long as they can handle the final load. They will be within 1.5 db of each other if power output levels are accucrate. Distortion levels are irrelevant because the sub is going to produce more distortion than the amp in most cases ever will.

In total agreement with Minbari.
 

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Running IB does not mean you get more output. It just means you require less power to reach full stroke.

Car IB is basically large leaky sealed enclosure.

No box so less weight and lost room. Tends to mesh well with most cars cabin gain. Not a lot of low end. It's there don't get me wrong. See my statement rearding sealed box. the roll off is still there.


Give me ported and allow me to eq out the hump. Less woofer distortion/non linearities down low. Amp works less hard. Plus I have box air compliance to help keep woofer control should I ask a little much. It does happen...

Now box is bigger. should use SSF to control woofer unloading.


No matter what design, there are trade offs. To many opinionated absolutes with no discussion of the why this or that is better.
 

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Of the three, I'd pick Zed.

And for some reason you're all forgetting the disadvantages to higher sensitivity, like small amounts of noise in the signal path having a greater acoustical effect :p
 
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