[MrAcd]

Okay, so this is my first forum post and im fairly new into car audio also. I will start off with the equipment that i have bought already, this includes a custom pre fab box that specifically fits under Dodge ram seats, if i had a different car i would of built it. The box is for 2 10inch subs up to a mounting depth of 6" and .75cu ft per chamber and it is ported. I went at the sealed vs ported argument for a while because of such little space i had. I went with ported because i listen to Rap/trap and some dubstep so i want the loud boomy bass with a lot of SPL. I have true 4 guage wiring wired up to a JBL GTO-751EZ amp that does certified 750rms at 2ohms. I want to know what the best sub woofers i can put in there for the money.
budget is cant go over 100$ per sub
Box = 2002 2008 Dodge RAM Quad Cab Dual 10" Obcon Labyrinth Slot Vent Sub Box OBQ86 | eBay
Amp= GTO-751EZ | Powerful 1200-watt Car Subwoofer Amplifier | JBL US
I have narrowed them down to a few though including these

Pioneer: TS-W261S4 - <b>NEW!</b> - 10" Champion Series Subwoofer with Single 4 Ohm Voice Coil | Pioneer Electronics USA
I am leaning toward this one because it matches everything, has the lowest cu ft for ported and high sensitivity for more SPL.

JBL: GTO1014 | Powerful 10 inch Die-cast Car Subwoofer | JBL US

NVX: NVX NSW102V2 10" Dual 2-ohm NSW Series Car Subwoofer

Skar: Skar Audio IVX-10v2 400 Watt RMS 10" Subwoofer
I have heard about there past and heard they are better now

American Bass DX 10 Inch 250w RMS SVC 4 Ohm Subwoofer - SSA STORE

Incriminator Audio 10 I Series 300RMS 10" Subwoofer - SSA STORE

So those are the subs, i cant determine which is the best, or if somebody could recommend me a different better sub to for my needs.
Thanks

 

[Weigel21]

Enclosure is .75CUFT with a port tuning frequency of 38Hz. Your JBL amp lack a proper subsonic/infrasonic filter to power a ported setup, though one can buy external SSF's like those made by Harrison labs.

Now .75cuft is pretty small for a 10" ported enclosure. The Pioneer you are leaning towards recommends no smaller than a .9cuft enclosure. On top of this, the mounting depth "I" found for the enclosure is listed as 5.75", which one ideally wants 1" or more clearance between the rear of the sub and the wall of the enclosure of proper venting (Assuming the sub has a traditional cooling vent/port in the motor structure). The Pioneer has just such, and you would then add 1" to the mounting depth listed for it, so you ideally want 6 9/16" mounting depth, which you haven't.

Didn't look into any of the other subs for you, sorry.

Another thing to mention is that you'll be wanting a sub with an EBP higher than 50, and the higher the better suited for ported applications. this can be found by dividing the FS by the Qes of the sub (Often listed in the T/S Parameters of the driver).

 

[Weigel21]

Probably be "better off" opting to get an enclosure for 8's and seeking a proper sub for such, as most 10's will just require more internal volume and/or greater mounting depth.

Also, the tuning of 38Hz is a little high for 10's... well, I should say that most tend to tune a little lower. If SPL is what you are seeking, then this higher tuning is great, but if you are looking for deep lows and a flatter response curve, you'll likely not be too pleased.

8's are often tuned around 38Hz +/- a few hertz, but still such is a more common tuning frequency of 8's than 10's.

Edit.
I know, you specifically mention seeking SPL, but just wanted to note such nevertheless. AND, the Pionner sub having a higher sensitivity doesn't exactly mean it "will" be louder than another sub with a lower rating. Other factors are involved. In fact, many of the loudest subs are not very efficient

 

[MrAcd]

Probably be "better off" opting to get an enclosure for 8's and seeking a proper sub for such, as most 10's will just require more internal volume and/or greater mounting depth.

Also, the tuning of 38Hz is a little high for 10's... well, I should say that most tend to tune a little lower. If SPL is what you are seeking, then this higher tuning is great, but if you are looking for deep lows and a flatter response curve, you'll likely not be too pleased.

8's are often tuned around 38Hz +/- a few hertz, but still such is a more common tuning frequency of 8's than 10's.

Edit.
I know, you specifically mention seeking SPL, but just wanted to note such nevertheless. AND, the Pionner sub having a higher sensitivity doesn't exactly mean it "will" be louder than another sub with a lower rating. Other factors are involved. In fact, many of the loudest subs are not very efficient

what if i already own the box...:uhoh:

 

[Weigel21]

Then you're stuck looking for subs that will work well (enough) with it.

That or you could modify it, sell it, possibly return it. If either of the latter would be options, then you could opt to buy or build a new enclosure (though such may be beyond your comfort level or ability, due to lack to tools, etc.)

Not sure how much space you have under the rear seat, but you "might" be able to make some spacer rings to give yourself a little more mounting depth. A 1" or even a .75" MDF, etc. etc spacer ring could allow the Pioneers to fit in the enclosure with room for proper cooling. Still pushing the limits on how small the enclosure is for those Pioneers though.

Anyways, lets look at the other subs you listed.

JBL looks to be a no go, as does the NVX.

The SKAR looks promising though, has an allowance of a .75cuft ported enclsoure and mounting depth is 5 5/15", which you'll be sufficating the sub to some extent due to the rear vent hole, but again, if you could make or buy a spacer ring, the SKAR would surely work.

The American Bass sub would fit as well, but it's rated for a mere 250RMS, not to mention, no spec on ported enclosure allowance. One could probably come up with a fair range of allowance for it, but not me. Still, you'd have two subs rated for 500RMS combined and your amp can do over [email protected] ohms with a healthy electrical system. One could limit the output to some extent, but why limit yourself when SPL is the goal you seek.

I am unable to find any specs I seek on the Incriminator, their site won't load on my computer, keep getting server error codes.

Another possible sub would be the Alpine Type-S, I know it can work with a .75cuft ported enclosure, but again, pushing it with mounting depth/clearance for the sub to cool properly.

 

[82cj8]

Alpine swt-10

 

[MrAcd]

Then you're stuck looking for subs that will work well (enough) with it.

That or you could modify it, sell it, possibly return it. If either of the latter would be options, then you could opt to buy or build a new enclosure (though such may be beyond your comfort level or ability, due to lack to tools, etc.)

Not sure how much space you have under the rear seat, but you "might" be able to make some spacer rings to give yourself a little more mounting depth. A 1" or even a .75" MDF, etc. etc spacer ring could allow the Pioneers to fit in the enclosure with room for proper cooling. Still pushing the limits on how small the enclosure is for those Pioneers though.

Anyways, lets look at the other subs you listed.

JBL looks to be a no go, as does the NVX.

The SKAR looks promising though, has an allowance of a .75cuft ported enclsoure and mounting depth is 5 5/15", which you'll be sufficating the sub to some extent due to the rear vent hole, but again, if you could make or buy a spacer ring, the SKAR would surely work.

The American Bass sub would fit as well, but it's rated for a mere 250RMS, not to mention, no spec on ported enclosure allowance. One could probably come up with a fair range of allowance for it, but not me. Still, you'd have two subs rated for 500RMS combined and your amp can do over [email protected] ohms with a healthy electrical system. One could limit the output to some extent, but why limit yourself when SPL is the goal you seek.

I am unable to find any specs I seek on the Incriminator, their site won't load on my computer, keep getting server error codes.

Another possible sub would be the Alpine Type-S, I know it can work with a .75cuft ported enclosure, but again, pushing it with mounting depth/clearance for the sub to cool properly.

how much do you think my amp could actually pull at 2 ohms? also making a spacer ring cant be that hard, but i see what you are saying. I felt the American bass's were just not going to cut it so i have it down to the Skar's and these DCON 10 Sound Solutions Audio 10" 400W DCON Series Subwoofer - SSA STORE im leaning toward the Dcons, also i realize that my box was a mistake and im going to either make a fiberglass box or buy a Foxbox, you might of or might of not heard of them but people say they make amazing boxes though they are pricey. I might be going with one of their boxes in the near future. That being said those boxes have like 1.2cu ft and 7.25 of mouting depth plenty of breathing room. DODGE QUAD & CREW CAB 2-10" VENTED.

 

[etroze]

If you can pull off the foxbox that would be the way to go. If you want some prices on Skar equipment I do enough business with them that I can get a pretty decent discount. Also don't count out the VD series as I have two of these in my reg cab ram and they absolutely pound in a sealed 1cuft box.

 

[MrAcd]

If you can pull off the foxbox that would be the way to go. If you want some prices on Skar equipment I do enough business with them that I can get a pretty decent discount. Also don't count out the VD series as I have two of these in my reg cab ram and they absolutely pound in a sealed 1cuft box.

The VD's are rated at 500rms, i cant run those. The most would be 400rms i think unless they under rated my amp.

 

[etroze]

Don't clip the amp and you will be just fine. I had 400 a piece to them and still sounded great. Now I have 600 to each and sound just the same

 

[Weigel21]

Well, the GTO-501EZ, which is rated at [email protected] ohms, was tested by Steve Meade using the AD-1 and did 717RMS Certified off 14.4V. It did 884 watts dynamic off the same 14.4V.

So, I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to find the GTO-751EZ doing anywhere from 800-1000. Still, we don't "know" what your amp can do, only that it's sure to do rated power off a healthy electrical system.

However, you specifically asked "how much do you think my amp could actually pull at 2 ohms?", which is asking how much amperage the amplifier is demanding when ran at 2 ohms. A clamp meter could be used to find out, but I can assure you that when producing maximum clean output @2 ohms, it's not going to be demanding more than 100AMPS, as the fuses on the amplifier would blow.

Amplifier has 80AMPS of fusing, but I know more amperage than 80AMPS can be pulled by it before the fuses actually blow, as they are slow burn fuses. Could be that the fuses blow upon the amplifier demanding 90AMPS, one would have to do some trial and error to find out.

Can't really comment on the DCON, I've only heard a single 12" ICON sub by SSA. It was PLENTY LOUD for me. Guy who had it though didn't have any deadening in his ride and so everything flexed and rattled like crazy. Sounded like **** when cranked up IMO, but at the same time, I know not how the gains were set.

And truth be told, going from 70-100% rated power to a driver doesn't yield but 1-2dB of gained output. So truth be told, you could do just fine with a 1200RMS subwoofer setup and that amplifier. Issue is the lack of a subsonic/infrasonic filter. Running sealed, tuning LOW (this will cost you overall output), never playing audio with frequencies below the tuning (Yeah, right), or opting for an external infrasonic filter would all be solutions, obviously some aren't desirable, but...

Oh, or setting the gain to limit output dramatically or opting for subs that can handle over twice the power the amplifier can produce. Both of those would allow subs in a ported application to survive without a proper SSF, though obviously dramatically reducing power output will kill any hopes for high SPL levels and opting for subs rated to handle more then twice the power of the amplifier, while possible to still play quite loud, could easily sound poor when asked to play below the tuning.

 

[MrAcd]

Well, the GTO-501EZ, which is rated at [email protected] ohms, was tested by Steve Meade using the AD-1 and did 717RMS Certified off 14.4V. It did 884 watts dynamic off the same 14.4V.

So, I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to find the GTO-751EZ doing anywhere from 800-1000. Still, we don't "know" what your amp can do, only that it's sure to do rated power off a healthy electrical system.

However, you specifically asked "how much do you think my amp could actually pull at 2 ohms?", which is asking how much amperage the amplifier is demanding when ran at 2 ohms. A clamp meter could be used to find out, but I can assure you that when producing maximum clean output @2 ohms, it's not going to be demanding more than 100AMPS, as the fuses on the amplifier would blow.

Amplifier has 80AMPS of fusing, but I know more amperage than 80AMPS can be pulled by it before the fuses actually blow, as they are slow burn fuses. Could be that the fuses blow upon the amplifier demanding 90AMPS, one would have to do some trial and error to find out.

Can't really comment on the DCON, I've only heard a single 12" ICON sub by SSA. It was PLENTY LOUD for me. Guy who had it though didn't have any deadening in his ride and so everything flexed and rattled like crazy. Sounded like **** when cranked up IMO, but at the same time, I know not how the gains were set.

And truth be told, going from 70-100% rated power to a driver doesn't yield but 1-2dB of gained output. So truth be told, you could do just fine with a 1200RMS subwoofer setup and that amplifier. Issue is the lack of a subsonic/infrasonic filter. Running sealed, tuning LOW (this will cost you overall output), never playing audio with frequencies below the tuning (Yeah, right), or opting for an external infrasonic filter would all be solutions, obviously some aren't desirable, but...

Oh, or setting the gain to limit output dramatically or opting for subs that can handle over twice the power the amplifier can produce. Both of those would allow subs in a ported application to survive without a proper SSF, though obviously dramatically reducing power output will kill any hopes for high SPL levels and opting for subs rated to handle more then twice the power of the amplifier, while possible to still play quite loud, could easily sound poor when asked to play below the tuning.

First off let me thank you ,because you have been the most helpful guy I have talked to about this stuff, also I too saw Steve Meade's episode where he tested the amp below mine and like you said he was getting many more watts, okay so the subsonic filter, let's say I bought one and set it correctly, is that going to change what subs will sound good and would it change which subs I could get? Because isn't it just saving more power by not playing the notes below the enclosures tuning?

 

[Weigel21]

A SSF attenuates the frequencies below the set point. There are 6dB/12dB/18dB/24dB per octave slopes, so this will come into play as well.

The issue is that below the tuning frequency, there is no damping of the subs, in other words, they act as though they are playing IB. As we all know, it takes much less power for a driver to reach it's Xmax when IB. So, if you have your subs playing at rated power without a proper SSF, they will not only reach their Xmax, they will slam into their Xlim and hard. This will cause mechanical damage to the driver and result in a very short life. Not to mention, during their motorboating, their SQ will drop dramatically. So, if you listen to a lot of Rap/Hip Hop/Dubstep, Electro/ etc etc with LOW bass, the subs would ultimately beat themselves to death.

Harrison labs sells FMODs, which one can buy a 30Hz SSF 6dB/Oct model or opt for a 37Hz 18dB/Oct model. Well, one can also by... multipliers (?) to increase the roll off slope of the FMOD being used. However, at around $30 a pop, you'd have as uch invested in the FMODs and mulitpliers than the amplifier, if you went with the 30Hz and wanted a 24dB slope.

Surely another member will chime in on the subject, there may be a better way "I'm" unaware of at this time.

 

[MrAcd]

A SSF attenuates the frequencies below the set point. There are 6dB/12dB/18dB/24dB per octave slopes, so this will come into play as well.

The issue is that below the tuning frequency, there is no damping of the subs, in other words, they act as though they are playing IB. As we all know, it takes much less power for a driver to reach it's Xmax when IB. So, if you have your subs playing at rated power without a proper SSF, they will not only reach their Xmax, they will slam into their Xlim and hard. This will cause mechanical damage to the driver and result in a very short life. Not to mention, during their motorboating, their SQ will drop dramatically. So, if you listen to a lot of Rap/Hip Hop/Dubstep, Electro/ etc etc with LOW bass, the subs would ultimately beat themselves to death.

Harrison labs sells FMODs, which one can buy a 30Hz SSF 6dB/Oct model or opt for a 37Hz 18dB/Oct model. Well, one can also by... multipliers (?) to increase the roll off slope of the FMOD being used. However, at around $30 a pop, you'd have as uch invested in the FMODs and mulitpliers than the amplifier, if you went with the 30Hz and wanted a 24dB slope.

Surely another member will chime in on the subject, there may be a better way "I'm" unaware of at this time.

Okay okay i think I'm understanding some now, so the SSF basically smoothes out the lower frequenices and allows the driver to hit the xmax in a smother way like a IB sub would do? And if I didn't have one it would just slam up and down when playing the low notes thus decreasing life of the sub? But how many SSF's do I need? And at how hz and octave?

 

[Weigel21]

Umm, not quite.

A SSF attenuates the frequencies below the set point, this reducing of strength causes the amplifier to produce less power for said frequencies. This reduced power doesn't cause the sub to slam into it's hard limit (Xlim) and damage itself when asked to play these low frequencies.

However, you are fully correct on what will happen if you haven't one and ask the sub to play frequencies below the port tuning.

You only need a single SSF, as the amplifier is a Mono/single channel amplifier. If you opt for the FMOD route, they are sold in pairs for L/R channels. As for the frequency, that is dependent upon the tuning frequency of the enclosure. One is recommended to have a filter set within 5Hz below the tuning frequency and a sharp slope is recommended as well. With a shallow slope of say 6dB/Oct, one would need/want to set the filter at a higher frequency to ensure woofer protection.

Unfortunately, with the FMODS, you haven't much in the way of options. The enclsoure you are looking to get, the fox box, is tuned to 35Hz, so 30Hz is the lowest one would want to set a SSF and they would ideally want to have a sharper slope.

You could opt for the 37Hz FMOD Cables with a 18dB slope or opt for the 30Hz FMODs and buy attenuators (that's what they're called). The latter is more costly, but would allow you to get a bit more lower end output. the 37Hz FMOD cable would effectively cut some of the lower output that would otherwise have been safe to play by the subs, however, it's cheaper.

Guess it all comes down to how much of a bass head you are and how much you are willing to spend.

 

[MrAcd]

Umm, not quite.

A SSF attenuates the frequencies below the set point, this reducing of strength causes the amplifier to produce less power for said frequencies. This reduced power doesn't cause the sub to slam into it's hard limit (Xlim) and damage itself when asked to play these low frequencies.

However, you are fully correct on what will happen if you haven't one and ask the sub to play frequencies below the port tuning.

You only need a single SSF, as the amplifier is a Mono/single channel amplifier. If you opt for the FMOD route, they are sold in pairs for L/R channels. As for the frequency, that is dependent upon the tuning frequency of the enclosure. One is recommended to have a filter set within 5Hz below the tuning frequency and a sharp slope is recommended as well. With a shallow slope of say 6dB/Oct, one would need/want to set the filter at a higher frequency to ensure woofer protection.

Unfortunately, with the FMODS, you haven't much in the way of options. The enclsoure you are looking to get, the fox box, is tuned to 35Hz, so 30Hz is the lowest one would want to set a SSF and they would ideally want to have a sharper slope.

You could opt for the 37Hz FMOD Cables with a 18dB slope or opt for the 30Hz FMODs and buy attenuators (that's what they're called). The latter is more costly, but would allow you to get a bit more lower end output. the 37Hz FMOD cable would effectively cut some of the lower output that would otherwise have been safe to play by the subs, however, it's cheaper.

Guess it all comes down to how much of a bass head you are and how much you are willing to spend.

Okay im going to try to sum up and ask all my questions in this post, so
1. Watching the SMD video about the lower watt GTO series amp on the dyno, he was getting certified 720 at 2 ohms at 14.4v i think it was only suppose to be 500w. Does this mean i could maybe get 1000w or more at 2 ohms myself with my amp?Im thinking so but im asking you
2. if you said yes to statement 1 then does that mean i could go for the more popular power range of 500rms subs and run two of those, like maybe the Sundown SD-10's or the Skar audio VD-10's?
3. If you think i could run those then which one should i pick between the Dcon 10's (400w) , the Sundown Sd-10's(500w), Skar Audio VD-10's (500w), or skar audio's IVX 10's (400w). This is my most important question i have right now and i have to my decision REALLY quick, like ASAP.
4. I will be purchasing a Foxbox later i do not know how later but at the moment i dont have the money to so i will have to stick with my current box. I have polyfill in the box currently fyi. So im kinda wanting the sub to work in the box i have but work even better in the fox box (due to the added Cubic space).
5. my box now is tuned at 42hz... so im going to buy my SSF and attenuators for my fox box so i cant stop the frequencies between under my current boxes tuning and the SSF. but when i do buy my SSF this is what im getting http://www.amazon.com/FMOD-Crossove...&keywords=FMOD+Crossover+Pair#customerReviews correct me if i need something different
6. I will be going with the 2nd route and getting attenuators like you said but i have three options 3db and 6db and 12db which do i need?

I know im not going to be getting a amazing SPL set up but i am looking for something to hit hard that i can feel and to look good and impress people, Do you think that after the correct subs, foxbox and else what i will have what im looking for?

 

[Weigel21]

1. Yes, it's quite possible, but by no mean a guarantee. All we can be sure of is that the amplifier will produce rated power off a healthy electrical system. Without testing equipment, we can't find out what your amp can actually do. Still, based off what the smaller version did, I wouldn't be surprised if yours could do 1000 watts in a dynamic test with the AD-1.

2. Yes, but even if your amplifier couldn't produce but [email protected] ohms and not a single watt more, you could still opt for 500RMS subs. You'd be able to feed them 75% of their rated power and that'd be enough to get the vast majority of performance out of the subs. For a daily driver, it'd be fine. Now for someone chasing numbers, it could be an issue. However, you don't sound like you have plans to go into the competition scene.

3.Hard to say, I've only heard a couple Sundown setups, but they were fairly nice. Haven't heard any of SKAR's equipment and I've only heard that 12" ICON. Seems the VD has some support by another member who has ran them before, so it'd be worth some hard consideration. One would need to crunch some numbers and perhaps plot the subs using WinISD to make any educated guess on which could be the best option.

4. Your current box is the one you initially spoke of that has minimal mounting depth and is tuned fairly high. Truth be told, most subs that could work with the current should perform "better" with the Fox Box. Larger volume and lower tuning would perform more like what many members on here would prefer. Your current enclosure is more of a one note wonder. Being tuned so high, you'll be getting a lot of output around the tuning which will be amplified by the acoustics of the vehicle. This is great if you merely want LOUD, but if you want to listen to and enjoy your music, it's often not the route people like to take. But yeah, I wouldn't be too worried about less performance with the sub moving from the smaller higher tuned enclosure to the larger lower tuned. Probably won't be quite as loud overall, but the bass will be deeper and this deeper bass will have more authority.

5. Given the tuning of the current enclosure, I'd recommend opting for the 37Hz FMOD cables. Link
This will still work when you switch to the FOX BOX. If you end up deciding after the switch that it's cutting too much of the lows, you can then seek out a remedy at that point in time. As it stands now, opting for the 30Hz FMOD would be a poor choice, given the tuning of your current enclosure. The use of attenuators would merely get you a 30Hz SSF with a sharper slope. Your current enclosure is tuned to 42Hz or so. Any RAP/Hip Hop would have plenty of bass in the mid and upper 30's that would wreck havoc, given the SSF wouldn't attenuate them.

6. Covered above.

 

[Weigel21]

It's difficult to please everyone. Getting high SPL is easier with an enclosure that's tuned higher, but at the same time, much music just doesn't sound right with such. You like Rap/Hip Hop, which with a higher tuned enclosure, you'd be forced to cut a lot of the bass from the music, which just doesn't sound right.

A larger lower tuned enclosure will be able to play these frequencies you'd have had to cut with much more gusto, but alas, overall output will often be less than the higher tuned enclosure.

Not entirely sure whom it is you are looking to impress, but a LOUD system in an undeadened ride sounds like complete **** to me. The panel vibrations and flexing just sounds horrid IMHO, but some find it impressive. At the same time, a LOUD system able to be heard from any real distance away from the car just announces to the neighborhood there's something there to steal. Deadening the ride properly will often allow the SPL level inside the vehicle to increase, but the levels heard from outside the ride will be much less. This sort of sucks if those who you are looking to impress are passerby's.

In the end, I could care less what others think of "MY" system. I want a system that impresses ME. Why the hell do I want to impress Joe Bob from the trailer park in the next town over. I don't know him.

 

[MrAcd]

1. Yes, it's quite possible, but by no mean a guarantee. All we can be sure of is that the amplifier will produce rated power off a healthy electrical system. Without testing equipment, we can't find out what your amp can actually do. Still, based off what the smaller version did, I wouldn't be surprised if yours could do 1000 watts in a dynamic test with the AD-1.

2. Yes, but even if your amplifier couldn't produce but [email protected] ohms and not a single watt more, you could still opt for 500RMS subs. You'd be able to feed them 75% of their rated power and that'd be enough to get the vast majority of performance out of the subs. For a daily driver, it'd be fine. Now for someone chasing numbers, it could be an issue. However, you don't sound like you have plans to go into the competition scene.

3.Hard to say, I've only heard a couple Sundown setups, but they were fairly nice. Haven't heard any of SKAR's equipment and I've only heard that 12" ICON. Seems the VD has some support by another member who has ran them before, so it'd be worth some hard consideration. One would need to crunch some numbers and perhaps plot the subs using WinISD to make any educated guess on which could be the best option.

4. Your current box is the one you initially spoke of that has minimal mounting depth and is tuned fairly high. Truth be told, most subs that could work with the current should perform "better" with the Fox Box. Larger volume and lower tuning would perform more like what many members on here would prefer. Your current enclosure is more of a one note wonder. Being tuned so high, you'll be getting a lot of output around the tuning which will be amplified by the acoustics of the vehicle. This is great if you merely want LOUD, but if you want to listen to and enjoy your music, it's often not the route people like to take. But yeah, I wouldn't be too worried about less performance with the sub moving from the smaller higher tuned enclosure to the larger lower tuned. Probably won't be quite as loud overall, but the bass will be deeper and this deeper bass will have more authority.

5. Given the tuning of the current enclosure, I'd recommend opting for the 37Hz FMOD cables. Link
This will still work when you switch to the FOX BOX. If you end up deciding after the switch that it's cutting too much of the lows, you can then seek out a remedy at that point in time. As it stands now, opting for the 30Hz FMOD would be a poor choice, given the tuning of your current enclosure. The use of attenuators would merely get you a 30Hz SSF with a sharper slope. Your current enclosure is tuned to 42Hz or so. Any RAP/Hip Hop would have plenty of bass in the mid and upper 30's that would wreck havoc, given the SSF wouldn't attenuate them.

6. Covered above.

Okay well on the list is to find the subwoofer i want to buy, how would you "crunch the numbers" with WinISD, ive only used it once. Going off pure specs and what is on the internet (comments, videos, etc) which one looks like the better choice? im thinking the sundowns or the Dcons but what is your opinion?

And quick question if i got the 37hz SSF i would only be cutting out 2hz, the foxbox being tuned to 35hz. Is that correct, and if so that would not be noticeable or anything would it?

 

[Weigel21]

I've been looking at the subs you listed and trying to compare them with the two enclosures. Sad thing is that only the SKAR IVX-10 "lists" being compatible with a .75CUFT ported enclosure. The others look to have 1cuft minimum, or in the case of the Sundown, 1cuft is all that's listed, no mention on what sort of allowance there is with such.

On the other side of the coin, the FOX Box is 1.2cuft per chamber. All but the Sundown have a 1.5cuft maximum allowance for ported.

Another sad point is that the rear cooling port of the SKAR IVX-10, the only one to list .75cuft as ok, pushes the required mounting depth needed to 6 5/16, which your current enclosure is but 5 12/16.

The added polyfil can trick a sub into performing as thought the enclosure is larger, but I don't believe it creates an illusion of an enclosure more than 10% larger (could easily be wrong on this though). This may mean that your .75cuft enclosure can perform as though it's .825cuft or so. Really though, about the only thing I know when it comes to polyfil is that it is recommended to loosely put 1 pound per cubic foot of enclosure. How much gain one gets has been a bit of a mystery to me.

Me, given the subs "I've" heard, I've be tempted to go with the Sundown models, as both the setups I heard using their subs sounded pretty decent. Is that to say it's the best sub of the bunch? I never insinuated such. Though I can't believe it'd be a poor choice. Heck, any of them would likely be fine choices.

To plot them in WinISD, one needs to input the T/S Parameters and then plot the subs in both enclosures. The data can be a bit confusing to some, but yu could always post screen shots of all the subs in both enclosures and ask other members to chime in on the matter.

As for the SSF issue. The Fox Box being tuned to 35Hz would be allowed to have a 30Hz SSF, so the 37Hz would actually attenuate more than you are initially thinking, I believe. Still, that's a mere $30 part at best now to ensure the sub survives long enough to be able to be placed in the Fox Box. Again, I'd not stress over it now. Buy the 37Hz now and next year after you get the new enclosure, buy the 30Hz FMODs and Attenuators, or invest this reasonable chunk of change towards a nicer amplifier that has a variable SSF.