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Discussion Starter #1
I have this Hifonics HFi55.4 amp:
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 55 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 110 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 220 watts x 2 chan.
laying around and I was hoping to power to small subs with it. It is bridgeable to 220 watts for 2 channels at 4 ohms. My question is should I be buying 2 DVC 2 ohm subs and wire them in series or should I just buy two 4 ohm subs and do they have to be SVC or what's the deal? I'm still new to the audio world


Thanks
 

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If you want two subwoofers then these should work

Two 2ohm SVC subwoofers wired in series
Two 8ohm SVC subwoofers wired in parallel

Two 4ohm DVC subwoofers (each wired in parallel for 2 ohms, then two subs wired in series for final 4ohm)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would using two 4 ohm SVC subs work as well if I just connected each sub to its own channel without wiring it in series or parallel to the other? If that makes sense. Thanks for the quick response
 

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Would using two 4 ohm SVC subs work as well if I just connected each sub to its own channel without wiring it in series or parallel to the other? If that makes sense. Thanks for the quick response
I doubt it, unless you can find a subwoofer that works well on 55watts. I would say that it's best to use bridged setup if you're going to use this amplifier for you sub stage at all. If you're into building ported boxes, a well chosen 10 inch driver could do nicely. If you can afford it, maybe something like Hybrid Audio I10SW subwoofer in a ported/vented box could produce a good result. I personally, if limited to using this amplifier for my sub stage, would put a single high efficiency 12 inch subwoofer, such as Infinity Reference 1262w in a sealed box and call it a day. A 12 inch subwoofer has almost as much cone area as 2 10s, but costs just a little more than one 10 inch subwoofer (from the same subwoofer family).
 

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I have this Hifonics HFi55.4 amp:
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 55 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 110 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 220 watts x 2 chan.
laying around and I was hoping to power to small subs with it. It is bridgeable to 220 watts for 2 channels at 4 ohms. My question is should I be buying 2 DVC 2 ohm subs and wire them in series or should I just buy two 4 ohm subs and do they have to be SVC or what's the deal? I'm still new to the audio world


Thanks
If you want two subwoofers then these should work

Two 2ohm SVC subwoofers wired in series
Two 8ohm SVC subwoofers wired in parallel

Two 4ohm DVC subwoofers (each wired in parallel for 2 ohms, then two subs wired in series for final 4ohm)
I think you missed the part in blue in the OP's question as your suggestions would equal 4 ohms x 1 but the OP needs 4 ohms x 2.



Will - I am not going to even try to suggest sub brands/models as there are far to many options and I have been away from the hobby for some time but for the wiring you are going to want each sub to be wired to the amp at 4 ohms per bridged side.

So either 2 SVC 4ohm subs wired each to one of the two bridged channels or 2 DVC dual 2 ohm subs with each sub wired in series (making each sub 4 ohms to the amp) to each of the two bridged channels.
 

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Look for basic, low excursion subwoofers that have relatively high sensitivities. The monstrous 1000WRMS 2323443857mm Xmax subwoofers sacrifice a lot of sensitivity to do what they do.

Note that larger speakers generally have higher sensitivities, all things considered. Don't limit yourself to small subs because of a small amp. If you want small subs to keep the space used low, that's a good reason, but larger speakers will otherwise be better. I recommend that you use at least 10" subwoofers if possible. 8"s will drop a lot of sensitivity and thus output.
 

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Yes you might get the most bass with a pair of ~200rms 15s, if you could actually fit them in the vehicle tuned right. That means a giant box or IB. I have 350rms on my pair of pyle 15s IB right now into my back seat and its a little weak but very nice low bass. With normal bass it will keep up with 4x125 on highs but I like some extra at times. I'll put the 500rms amp back in soon as I get time it has more punch and shakes the roof.

Thing about subs is cheaper ones are more efficient usually and take less power...but they go louder on less power because of it. Problem is they usually want a larger box. A larger sub will have more output all else the same...so you have to figure out the combo that works for you. You could go larger DVC 4 ohm and run one sub it would likely get lower due to lower Fs. The high power subs today that take a small box are not efficient, you need 600rms-1Kw+ just to make them work right. You could run a single 400rms dvc it would seem. I have a 10 like that I test on that works well but I've never run it in a car. In my experience you need an expensive single 10 to get a lot of output from it.....depending on what kind of output you need. You could run a set of $25-40 subs in the right box and get a fair amount of output from them. Even my pyles were <50 each but they take a huge box so are better for IB.

Also the entry lines from good brands are ideal for this, be careful if you pick a no-name brand like it did with my pyles. I did a lot of research and pyle actually does publish TS specs unlike many cheap brands. Since dual 15s was overkill for me I was not worried about huge output, and they do more than I need...roof shaking is just for laughs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok that makes sense. I was looking at getting 2 of the entry level infinity references. 10 inches and have right around 250 watts rms with a high sensitivity level. I also like the fact that they only need .75 cubic feet a piece.
 

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I ran an infinity 12 in a 1.25cf ported and sealed a few years back. I didn't like it in my car it had hardly anything under 40Hz, but was loud 40 and up. Other subs did the same thing mostly, other similar subs except an MTX. I was looking more SQ sound. I ended up getting a deal on the infinity 12 dvc so I put quads in IB behind the seat. They had a lot of output on a kicker 700.5 on 420rms from it. I did have to run two LP at 50 and cut at 50 on the EQ to flatten them out because they still wanted to pump at 50 and above, would buzz the car hard that way. But even with the EQ/xovers they pumped a lot of bass out down to 20Hz. Eventually I took them out because the setup was so heavy and no room to swap amps, went to pair of pyle 15s that have better tuning IB. Output might be a hair less but they are overkill for me anyway, surprised the pyles are working so well to be honest considering <100 for both.

Anyway I liked to Infinity, they just were tuned a little higher than I like and maybe my car has less cabin gain down low. Those 10s might be different, I ran the older 1252w/1262w with the motor inside the frame. I think they would have worked much better in a larger box than 1.25 for one, but that was larger than I wanted at that. Now IB I have nearly the whole trunk open to use and way way more bottom than one 12.
 
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