DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
already have a design: How much to have a xover built?

I'm getting Madisound to design a crossover for me to use between the mid and tweeter. It will allow me to run a 3 way off of the 4x75 amp. I can always upgrade to all active by adding another amp in the future and ditching the crossover, but for the $25 design fee, this seems to be a good option.


If I provide the schematics and parts, is someone here able build the crossover? I have never tried to build something like that and would worry about my skills (I don't have the steadiest of hands...). If someone here is able to do this, let me know how much you would charge.

Thanks

FWIW, this is to run the Vifa XT19 tweeter and SEAS W12 midrange. They suggested either an 18db or 24db slope at 2500 Hz for these 2 drivers. Sounded close to what I would have run with an active crossover also.
 

·
DIYMA Founder
Joined
·
4,757 Posts
I believe Madisound will build it for you as well?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
demon2091tb said:
Design and build. Or design if you just want that.

Madisound can design it for $25. My main need is the building part. Still have to check with them to see if they can build also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
demon2091tb said:
Design and build. Or design if you just want that.
Are you stating that you personally design and build xover units? I may take you up on that offer someday soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,149 Posts
Madisound can design them, even send you unstuffed boards and parts if you want a little DIY pride! I buy stuff like that unstuffed because I enjoy kicking back and doing a little soldering while saving sometimes a significant amount of money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,847 Posts
AzGrower said:
Are you stating that you personally design and build xover units? I may take you up on that offer someday soon.
I wish, my upcoming Seas Project i will be building the crossover but its predesigned from www.zaphaudio.com seas kit. So i'm in the process of learning how to do them, but i was stating that madisound will either build them or design them for you and ship them to you, as they built my first passive for my vifa/lpg kit, works nicely, but not sure if they contour the crossover to the actual frequency response.

Overall i think its a good idea to talk to madisound about it, or try tackleing it yourself with a preexisting design. The parts are fairly cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
chad said:
Madisound can design them, even send you unstuffed boards and parts if you want a little DIY pride! I buy stuff like that unstuffed because I enjoy kicking back and doing a little soldering while saving sometimes a significant amount of money.
So wanna kick back and build me a set if I send you all the necessary parts mane? I wouldnt mind soldering, as long as thats all it is. I will need to get a micro tip for my Weller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
westend said:
Have you looked at buying an active crossover? They are not that expensive and offer a lot more functionality. Here is an example from Ebay:http://cgi.ebay.com/Audiocontrol-24xs-Audio-Control-Crossover-FREE-SHIP_W0QQitemZ5815997982QQcategoryZ79840QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I hope linking to an Ebay item is permissible, here.
yes, that is the ultimate goad. The reason I am looking at a passive xover, is because I want to use Tube Driver amps and adding a passive xover (at least for starters) is going to save me $750.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
sheepdog said:
because I want to use Tube Driver amps
Which brand? I am looking to get my hands on the US Amps TU600 for my front stage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
AzGrower said:
Which brand? I am looking to get my hands on the US Amps TU600 for my front stage.

I considered that, but right now it looks like this is the plan:

TDB2150 bridged to an Eclipse 12" sub (600 watts)
TDB475 running 2x75 to the passive xover and 2x75 to the midbass
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
sheepdog said:
I considered that, but right now it looks like this is the plan:

TDB2150 bridged to an Eclipse 12" sub (600 watts)
TDB475 running 2x75 to the passive xover and 2x75 to the midbass
You should save your money on the TDB2150 if you're just using it to drive a sub. You'll notice little to no difference running a tube amp vs. a solid state on a sub. Trust me I've been there. I used to run a Phaze Audio Tube Driver TD1500 on a pair of JL Audio 10w3-D4's. In hind-sight it was just a waste really. Plus I've heard the Tube Drivers (not sure on the TD Blue's though) that they have a low end roll off so some of the deeper bass is lost, I'm not sure were the roll off occurs it's just what I've heard from researching the Tube Driver series of amps over the last 6 or 7 years. A TD1500 or TDB2150 would be much more suited for a comp set or a pair of mids in an active setup. For the price of the TDB2150 you could probably get a nice solid state amp for your sub and your midbass drivers and run an active setup.

Just my 2 cents.

Ryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
thats what i plan on doing, using the TU600 on the front stage and just a monoblock for the US Amp's AX line (same series as the tu600)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
|Tch0rT| said:
You should save your money on the TDB2150 if you're just using it to drive a sub. You'll notice little to no difference running a tube amp vs. a solid state on a sub. Trust me I've been there. I used to run a Phaze Audio Tube Driver TD1500 on a pair of JL Audio 10w3-D4's. In hind-sight it was just a waste really. Plus I've heard the Tube Drivers (not sure on the TD Blue's though) that they have a low end roll off so some of the deeper bass is lost, I'm not sure were the roll off occurs it's just what I've heard from researching the Tube Driver series of amps over the last 6 or 7 years. A TD1500 or TDB2150 would be much more suited for a comp set or a pair of mids in an active setup. For the price of the TDB2150 you could probably get a nice solid state amp for your sub and your midbass drivers and run an active setup.

Just my 2 cents.

Ryan
What about my midbass? They wouldn't play much higher than 200-250Hz? Is it worth it getting a TDB on them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
sheepdog said:
What about my midbass? They wouldn't play much higher than 200-250Hz? Is it worth it getting a TDB on them?
IMO you probably wouldn't really notice... and the tube sound is more noticable on midrange/highs. I'm sure tubes affect the bass and mid bass somewhat but at what point would it be beneficial at the price that you pay for the amps? Hell if I was rich I'd probably have TDB's on everything. Also human hearing isn't as receptive to bass frequencies than it is to mid range (the most important band) and the highs. It takes a lot more distortion on the bass frequencies than on the mid range before you will start to notice.

I'm sure your proposed set up will sound good. I've had a simular set up at one time. I had the TD1500 on the JL 10w3's, two channels of my TD475 on a pair of Oz Audio CS-130 components (passive between the mid range and tweet, active been the components and the mid bass) and the other two channels on a pair of Oz Audio 200L's for mid bass. My current setup destroys the one I described in all areas. Just remember if you want it really loud and clean going all active is the way to go. :D

Ryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
|Tch0rT| said:
Just remember if you want it really loud and clean going all active is the way to go. :D

Ryan

If I get a TDB475 and a Zapco 1000.4, I could afford to go all active
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
sheepdog said:
If I get a TDB475 and a Zapco 1000.4, I could afford to go all active
Looks like a solid combo to me. :D

Ryan
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top