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Discussion Starter #1
I think I just added this sub to my list of possibles. The rest is as follows:

DIYMA 12
Dayton 12 HO
AA Assault 12

It relatively still a shallow mount 12 and is designed to fit into small enclosures. I have anywhere from 0.6-0.75 cu ft (sealed) to work with and about 9" total space to work with in depth (under the rear seat in my extended cab Chevy truck). Power will be coming from a DLS A3 and I can get the following power from it bridged:
550 watts @ 4 ohms
880 watts @ 2 ohms

Aside from the obvious price difference from the SS to the rest, I would like to hear opinions from members who have experience with this sub. Thanks
 

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Well, I'm not running the 12" (I have the Rl-p 15") but I think it is a fantastic sub. I run my 15" in a 2.0 cu. ft. sealed enclosure and the output and SQ are really good. I haven't found a sub that can touch it for the money.

You might want to write Mike at SS and ask him about enclosure sizes for the 12". If I remember correctly, the T/S paraments showed that the 12" is much more a vented enclosure sub than the 15".

They can handle some big power but don't really need it. My 15" sealed doesn't need a lot of power to get it moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
SteveLPfreak said:
Well, I'm not running the 12" (I have the Rl-p 15") but I think it is a fantastic sub. I run my 15" in a 2.0 cu. ft. sealed enclosure and the output and SQ are really good. I haven't found a sub that can touch it for the money.

You might want to write Mike at SS and ask him about enclosure sizes for the 12". If I remember correctly, the T/S paraments showed that the 12" is much more a vented enclosure sub than the 15".

They can handle some big power but don't really need it. My 15" sealed doesn't need a lot of power to get it moving.
I will email him, but the website says the following:

"The RL-p12 is optimized for small sealed or vented enclosures. For people seeking great sound quality and economy of space, we suggest a sealed enclosure between 0.75 - 1.5 cu ft, with the general consensus being that 1.0 - 1.2 cu ft net volume is ideal for a solid balance of low frequency extension and overall output"
-soundsplinter.com

I figured I could get at least .75 cubes out of my space, and maybe closer to 1 foot since I can actually just build the box wider, but it wont be square due to the transmission hump being in the way. Kinda like a smaller box joined to the bigger box. If I use fiberglass to make the lower contour of the floor. , the union will be very smooth and not 90* angles usually associated with just using MDF board.
 

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I saw that statement on the SS website, too, about the sealed enclosure requirements. However, before buying my Rl-p 15", I visited several forums to see what others were saying. Most said that the 12" will work in a sealed enc. but works much better in a ported enc. The 15" on the other hand seems to work better in a sealed enc. than the 12".

Mike at SS seems to be a very honest guy. I would contact him and see what he says. It wouldn't be the first time other forum users were incorrect.

Just curious - why not use the DIYMA 12"? It seems to have all the great features of a high-end sub with mimimal enc. size.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
SteveLPfreak said:
Just curious - why not use the DIYMA 12"? It seems to have all the great features of a high-end sub with mimimal enc. size.
Quite simply...availability

But I am not against getting one on the pre-order pricing and testing it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Holy chit mane, I emailed him and got a response in less than 5 minutes! What a guy...

Here is what he said...

"When it comes to "optimal" - there is optimal for me, optimal for you, and
optimal for anyone else. As it stands, there is a tradeoff from going
sealed to vented on the RL-p. If your goals are flat-out maximum output at
the expense of space and build effort, then a vented box would be necessary.
If however you are content with well-balanced (and still quite loud)
accurate bass response, with an easier enclosure and space efficiency, the
sealed box will suit you very well.

What I'm trying to say is, you won't be winning any SPL competitions with a
sealed RL-p, however it will still perform very well in accurately
reproducing the subbass portion of your source. 1 cube net is as small as I
like to go on the RL-p12 (with a preferred 1.1 - 1.25 cube net being optimal
imo). Given your options, I would run with the dual 4ohm driver, wired to
2ohm seeing 880 watts.

If you have any other questions, lay 'em on me. If you'd like to get
rolling on an order feel free to hit me back with your full shipping address
and I'll draw up the final invoice for ya.

Take care,
~mike "
 

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Well, it looks like the 12" will work rather well in a sealed enc. after all. Mike is very good at answering e-mails. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from SS again just because of Mike. The subs are great, too!

I understand on the DIYMA 12". By the time the go up for sale, orders are gathered, drivers built, it will probably be March or so.
 

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Hey, I have one in a sealed enclosure (internal net vol rec'd 1.25-1.35 and mine is at 1.35). I have a PG zx475ti pushing it with 250w per coil. The only other subs that I can compare it to are a pair of JL 10w0-4's that I had previously in the car and a JL 12w7 that my buddy has. The Rlp has more output (but is getting more power) than the 10w4's and at least as much as the w7 and IMO sounds better with more pleasant Sq. Both the w7 and Rlp are being powered by the same amp but my buddies is in the trunk of a Lincoln Mark VIII and mine in a 91 BMW M5--both which have really well sealed off trunks so it is fairly tough to get sound through. Both boxes were built right and they are being run active so I think it was a pretty fair comparison. I like the Rlp better and once you add in the dollar difference it was a no brainer. I like it enough that I think an Rli 10” is going into my pickup. Mike is also a really amazing guy and will take care of you. I’d get one.
 

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I saw someone on SD selling a XXX, AV Stryke, and the 12 RLp D2 for $120 plus shipping .. only the RLp is $120 .. the other 2 are to help you find the thread. It's a GREAT price.

the RLp D2 looks like a TC9 / Entasi .. might want to double check. If so, I've got a near NIB one, tested by 10K2HVN against his Avalanche.

Hit him up for opinions if you like .. and it can take the 1ohm power from the A3.
 

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OgreDave said:
I saw someone on SD selling a XXX, AV Stryke, and the 12 RLp D2 for $120 plus shipping .. only the RLp is $120 .. the other 2 are to help you find the thread. It's a GREAT price.

the RLp D2 looks like a TC9 / Entasi .. might want to double check. If so, I've got a near NIB one, tested by 10K2HVN against his Avalanche.

Hit him up for opinions if you like .. and it can take the 1ohm power from the A3.

IIRC the RLp is a TC9 motor and the RLi was a TC2+. Not bad drivers at all but there are tons out there that use the same motor.
 

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Yes, I know. What I was trying to suggest was that it's a Entasi TC9 rather than a SS RLp. RLp's don't normally come D2 or silver faced.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The Rl-p is available in either a D4 or D2 voice coil configuration. Mike suggests that I try the D4 version and give it 880 watts @ 2ohms via the A3. I couldnt imagine giving a single 12 sub over 1200 watts @ 1 ohm from the A3. I would really need to order some more Raammat bxt and add 2 more layers inside the cabin of my truck.

But Ogre, just for ****s and giggles, can I get some more information from you concerning the sub?

I think I will pass on the sub for sale on SD, those dont look to be in the best of shape, even for that price. With this sub, I would like brand new and full warranty direct from the manufacturer. I dont mind paying just over 2 bills for that kind of quality.
 

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I don't think i've heard 1 sub using the TC9 motor that i didn't love. My Mangum D2 15" and my ED e12a.22 are some of my favorite subs i've ever owned. Something about that
TC9 motor that is just so much fun to listen to.
 
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