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Who learned you how to REW? 🎚🎛🎤

8659 Views 135 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  oabeieo
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When I was a youngin, when ever some one said something illiterate we would say "Who learned you how to spoke?". I'm completely REW illiterate 😔 so I want to spark a conversation with some of you fine young/old folks/farts 😃 (jk, dont hang me) about REW. Maybe a why, when, where you decided you needed REW in your life. How you learned, who taught you, how you do it.

I'm sure there's different methods, maybe some one can shoot some of their skills this way. When I got my car back last year from the installer it was a blank slate. I undid the crossovers, re set gains, re-did the input EQ, then I Helix Auto just about Everyting. This was/is new to me. My tune was done in my jobs parking lot before a night shift when I had a lil time. Took a while... half hour here and there for months. Then the finicky UMIK-1 was always cutting out on a constant mid measurement 😡. I'm a busy man with hardly any play time to my self. I got it sounded how I like, but I feel I cheated.

I bought a UMIK-2 a whiles back and a couple weeks ago I started playing with REW. Took a few mesurment just to play with it while I was waiting for my wife to get her nails did 💅. I realized I didn't know WTF I was doing. I brought the Laptop in to the house yesterday to email the pics to my self. I'll post them.

I want to dive in (when time allows) and finish where the Helix Auto tune left off. Hand jerk here n there to see if I can squeeze a lil more out of the tune.

My system consist of rear and front sub. 3 way on my doors, 2 way centre.

I take my measurement in the driver seat waving the magic stick around my face. My TA is also set in between where mine and the wives head reside. So basically a 2 seat tune, kinda. I know there should be an average between both seats but I got to learn to REW first. Plus Fvck her seats response I already compromised my TA.😃

This is a measurement with everything playing. I forgot to turn the sub down when I took this measurement. When I did the auto tune I brought the rear subs down to the front sub level.

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That hump at 1xxhz wast there when I did my tune but since I didn't turn the sub down I get some rear deck rattles. I think that was what it was. I also tuned my sub flat initially but I didn't like it and after some playing. I seemed to like a peek at 40hz

I took this today in the parking lot before my shift started. With the rear sub at like 1/3rd volume.

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NO centre with and withoug the sub up in volume.

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I had read a bunch of REW tutorials but I didn't read them before taking the mesurments and I just kinda shot from the hip. Matter of fact I just barely learned how to make the measurement look squiggly instead of like the stair way to heaven.

These are the settings I have set up. I feel like I'm doing something wrong. 😕

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I just want to learn to REW before I dive in face first into hand jerking a tune.

If you gotta story of how you learned, please share. You got some pointers for me, please share. Any input or criticism is welcomed.

Sorry for the long post I'm at work n bored. It's about to be midnight, and I still got 6 hours to go. I'll end it here so I don't loose my progress.
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All SPL tab 🤔, got it. Thanx! How's that Helix treating you?

My UMIK-1 would just randomly cut out them come back. I tried different cords and it did the same thing. I got fed up a got the UMIK-2. But I didn't get a chance to use it till recently. The Helix Auto tune does an excellent job, even with a finicky mic.
The Helix is great, for sure. If I knew then what I know now… I’d probably have gotten more channels or a V8, lol


I use the 'Overlays' screen instead of the All SPL. You can pick and choose whichever (or all of em) measurement you want to look at.

Also, in the Overlays screen, you can use the "EQ Filters" tab from the EQ window. This is cool, because you can EQ say your Right Mid-Range to match your Left-Mid-Range.
I’m glad to know and will give this a try next time! The Overlays EQ sounds simpler, but you can also match responses in All SPL by using ‘trace arithmetic’.
Helpful guide for matching responses:
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If the signal being sent to the DSP is
That first link has many videos. Which specific video has the information?
First Measurement
This one is pretty painless

After all isn't it the source material were trying to manipulate?
If your source is providing a clean RCA or digital signal to the DSP, then there's no reason you can't use the DSP as a source.
If not, then your most foolproof method is going to be sending a signal through the source.

The DSP in my truck is being used to correct the interaction of the transducers with the cabin. There is a black art to getting properly summed signals from stock head units that send out jumbled signals but imo that's outside of the scope of most tuning discussions.
First Measurement
This one is pretty painless



If your source is providing a clean RCA or digital signal to the DSP, then there's no reason you can't use the DSP as a source.
If not, then your most foolproof method is going to be sending a signal through the source.

The DSP in my truck is being used to correct the interaction of the transducers with the cabin. There is a black art to getting properly summed signals from stock head units that send out jumbled signals but imo that's outside of the scope of most tuning discussions.
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Now I'm more confused. Your 2nd sentence is saying if my source is not sending a clean signal then I should use my source. Did you misspeak on that one? Why would I want to use my source if it is not clean?
First sentence makes sense.
Oh Wait. Sorry. It just hit me. If my source is not clean then it will be cleaned up via passing through the dsp.

Thanks.
If my source is not clean then it will be cleaned up via passing through the dsp.
If your source isn't doing anything funny to the signal than it's essentially transparent. It wouldn't matter if you fed signal to it or the DSP. If your source is doing things like changing phase, delay, doing weird upmixing and other stuff that a lot of premium stereos in japanese cars (and others i'm just not aware of) do, then one of the jobs of the DSP would be to fix that stuff or just tune around the limitations.

To get a accurate measurements you need to 1) feed the source the proper signal, and 2) make measurements with a calibrated mic
That first link has many videos. Which specific video has the information?

You also mentioned connecting rew to the DSP. This suggest bypassing the head unit and line out converter which makes no sense to me. Could you elaborate on that? Maybe this is all part of my confusion. I thought all test tones and pink noise and whatnot had to go through the head unit up stream of the DSP. After all isn't it the source material were trying to manipulate?
Connect laptop to head unit via headphone jack. Connect laptop to dsp via usb port. Connect microphone to laptop usb port. If laptop has only one usb, buy dongle to allow multiple connections. Warning: if you get this straight you may have sound driver issues interfering with rew working correctly. But lets hope not.
Connect laptop to head unit via headphone jack. Connect laptop to dsp via usb port. Connect microphone to laptop usb port. If laptop has only one usb, buy dongle to allow multiple connections. Warning: if you get this straight you may have sound driver issues interfering with rew working correctly. But lets hope not.
Or just load the audio files you need and place on an USB for the head unt to read.. Of course, if you have this capability
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Thanks.
I do have 2 available usb ports and a headphone jack on my laptop. Thanks for mentioning this. These are the specifics needed for newbies and non savvy computer users. Never seen this mentioned in any of the how to's I've watched and read. I will eventually give it a try. Maybe I'll get lucky. I don't believe it will be this easy though. There's usually always a conflict with computer software. Never thought I would have to become a software engineer to enjoy listening to superior sound.
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Never thought I would have to become a software engineer to enjoy listening to superior sound.
Wait till you start making tunes at the parking lot at 4 in the morning and at around 5:30 some drunk folks start to passing by yelling "yeahhh **** her" because your windows are fogged of that moving mic...
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Can you link to that? Sometimes my UMIK-1 measurements go bananas. Other times REW just doesn't recognize the cal file.
Umik 1 No soundcard input data this is hopefully relevant
Thanks.
I do have 2 available usb ports and a headphone jack on my laptop. Thanks for mentioning this. These are the specifics needed for newbies and non savvy computer users. Never seen this mentioned in any of the how to's I've watched and read. I will eventually give it a try. Maybe I'll get lucky. I don't believe it will be this easy though. There's usually always a conflict with computer software. Never thought I would have to become a software engineer to enjoy listening to superior sound.

When you connect your laptop to your HeadUnit via the headphone jack, sometimes you may get feedback if the laptop is plugged into power. Its best to have a full charge on the laptop battery, and make sure its not plugged into power at that point.
My main source is my factory head
Thanks.
I do have 2 available usb ports and a headphone jack on my laptop. Thanks for mentioning this. These are the specifics needed for newbies and non savvy computer users. Never seen this mentioned in any of the how to's I've watched and read. I will eventually give it a try. Maybe I'll get lucky. I don't believe it will be this easy though. There's usually always a conflict with computer software. Never thought I would have to become a software engineer to enjoy listening to superior sound.
My car doesn't have a 3.5mm input, Only USBs. I tried USB to USB and 3.5 from the lap top to USB and none worked. So I just do what was stated above. Pink noise through a thumb drive. 😑
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I keep alot of test tracks on a thumbdrive.......
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When you connect your laptop to your HeadUnit via the headphone jack, sometimes you may get feedback if the laptop is plugged into power. Its best to have a full charge on the laptop battery, and make sure its not plugged into power at that point.
Wow. Never would have thought of that. I can see that being a problem as my laptop battery doesn't last very long. Maybe 45 minutes at best. Don't think I can get much done in 45 minutes. See, it just keeps getting more and more discouraging.
I keep one of these in my car 👇. Along with the laptop charger, the mic, and the laptop. They have permanent locations in the car.



ALLWEI 300W Car Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Converter 4.8A Dual USB Charging Ports Car Charger Adapter (Red) https://a.co/d/fMGjdSA
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I keep one of these in my car 👇. Along with the laptop charger, the mic, and the laptop. They have permanent locations in the car.



ALLWEI 300W Car Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Converter 4.8A Dual USB Charging Ports Car Charger Adapter (Red) https://a.co/d/fMGjdSA
I have one of those with my laptop plugged in when I tune. Plus I connect the truck battery to a 10A charger. I never have had feedback from my laptop plugged in.
ymmv
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My old Windows 7 tuning PC finally crashed and died about 6 months ago. I purchased a bottom of the line HP Windows 11 laptop from Walmart for my new tuning laptop. Its nothing special, but the battery will last 5 hours.

and yeah, I use a 10A charger attached to the truck battery also when tuning.....
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Gentlemen. I have watched this thread and stayed out because I thought some of the others would chime in but rew isn’t really that hard once you get the hang of it.

get a thumb drive with pink noise, mono is good.
I think I used correlated. I have the pink noise on my google drive.
set your crossovers and time alignment by tape measure.

you don’t have to connect the computer to the hu. Just use the thumb drive and run the pink noise.

in the settings you will find many of the common dsps and just pick the one you have.

Upload your target curve and you cal file for the mic. Plug that into the computer and it will find it.

what you’ll want to do it measure each speaker individually and then over lay the target curve and then let rew make your adjustments. The key is to save each file and name it. Rt, lt, rm, etc. Put them on another thumb drive and them import them into your dsp. This is how I did my minidsp.

I also used a Dayton dsp and let it tell me what eq was necessary to meet the curve and I simply input the settings from rew into the dsp.

there used to be some videos out there and frankly skizer had the best ones but they were taken down.

I’ll look tomorrow if I have time and do a quick run through. It’s been a minute but should be straight forward.

I got to where I could do a good tune in about 20 minutes with rew.
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I was able to take some measurements before my shift started. Didn't have much time. But thanx to whom ever showed me the all SPL button I can put them on a single screen. 😃

I'm still testing the waters so I took the same measurement of my front sub playing from 65-130hz. Different settings though. One was with 1/12 and no smoothing, other was with 1/48 with 1/48 smoothing. The other 2 were 1/24 without smoothing and with 1/6 smoothing. This was the first time I've actually played with them setting.

They differ slightly, but I'm still unsure what setting to use when I start tunning. What settings do you guys use? Does it really matter? I think you can change them after you take the mesurments, but I haven't figured that out yet.

An other thing I tested was the amount of averages. I initially had it at 16. This time I had it on unlimited. I noticed at around 20, it didn't change much. How many averages do you guys run?

I'm gonna keep logging my progress here. Hopefully some ppl can help or learn through my Rew journey. 😃

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I always take a measurement with the RTA1/48 setting, then can smooth to any level from there. I usually use Var Smoothing inside the EQ window and Overylays window. Click on the gear icon in these windows, and choose the smoothing level you want to apply to that measurement(s).

Below is a copy past from within the REW Help file. The variable will automatically apply the correct smoothing level for every frequency range .....

"Variable smoothing applies 1/48 octave below 100 Hz, 1/3 octave above 10 kHz and varies between 1/48 and 1/3 octave from 100 Hz to 10 kHz, reaching 1/6 octave at 1 kHz. Variable smoothing is recommended for responses that are to be equalized"

I wish the writter of REW would explain it better, but the above means::

For Freq's 100 hz and below it will auto smooth to 1/48
For Freq's 100 hz up to 1000hz it will gradually auto increase smoothing from 1/48 to 1/6
For Freq's 1000hz up to 10,000hz will auto apply 1/6 smoothing
For Freq's 10,000 up to 20,000 will auto apply 1/3 smoothing..
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