[tjk_bail]

Thanks!... its kinda fun putting that stuff together. But, was any of that info something you didn't already know?

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

Thanks!... its kinda fun putting that stuff together. But, was any of that info something you didn't already know?

I knew it had those features but I didn't know how to access any of it. Those measurements I posted in the beginning were my first real attempt to REW. That's when I realized I was completely lost in the software. That plus the lack of free time (that i can actually spend on my car) that I have. I've been reading and watching videos but none were as useful as your post. Thanx 😃

 

[audionow]

Nice write up, On the how to.

 

[JLyon1]

Thanks!... its kinda fun putting that stuff together. But, was any of that info something you didn't already know?

I knew how to do these things and I’m still going to come back here and follow your walk-through next time, very helpful.

 

[tjk_bail]

I knew it had those features but I didn't know how to access any of it. Those measurements I posted in the beginning were my first real attempt to REW. That's when I realized I was completely lost in the software. That plus the lack of free time (that i can actually spend on my car) that I have. I've been reading and watching videos but none were as useful as your post. Thanx 😃

Thats cool that you are doing the upfront research, it defiantly will help you when you decide to move forward.... I understand how work and life can slow this project down... hang in there.

I've seen many of your posts from the last few months, I thought it was so cool of you help so many other peeps here, so I was happy to have a chance to be able to help you out.....

 

[tjk_bail]

I knew how to do these things and I’m still going to come back here and follow your walk-through next time, very helpful.

Happy I was able to help out ! ...

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

Thats cool that you are doing the upfront research, it defiantly will help you when you decide to move forward.... I understand how work and life can slow this project down... hang in there.

I've seen many of your posts from the last few months, I thought it was so cool of you help so many other peeps here, so I was happy to have a chance to be able to help you out.....

I try n help when I can.... if I can.... some times I'm just full of sh!t...😃 But I have fun with it either way.

 

[tjk_bail]

After you have EQ the Left Mid-Range AND Right Mid-Range (or any other Left/Right pair), as I explained above, then refer to post #31 and #32. This well help to really super fine tune the Left and Right pair to each other. When a speaker pair are playing the same level for every frequency within their band-pass, they will inherit a good amount of Phase coherency. Also, be sure to do the tape measure thing so the Timing is correct.

I'm not sure you understood what the heck I was talking about back when I first posted that stuff....

 

[Stycker]

For me the most relevant use of REW is to make sure you get crossovers to sum. The only way crossovers sum is when speakers are in phase with each other. Not only do they have to be in phase with speaker pairs, they also have to be in phase with the other speakers on the same side. you can EQ individual speakers to a house curve first, then get everything in phase(good crossover sum). Then go back and EQ again.

 

[Stycker]

I learned myself to REW. I watched Kyle Ragsdale videos on youtube. I watch all of Nick Apicella's videos before they got taken down. I asked countless questions here on DIYMA and Car Audio Junkies. Justin Zazzi and @jdunk54nl are very helpful and won't treat you like a child. I started competing and listening to the judges. I've watched Nick in action on the keyboard. That guy is like Edward Scissorhands on a keyboard. Most of all Trial and Error. Try something and see if it works. Honestly REW is a tool, just like a screwdriver. You could use a knife instead of a screwdriver. You could use a hand saw instead of a router. REW is the proper tool for tuning. Install is still King, get the install right before using REW.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

I had a few min before my shift started and I whipped out the mic and played with REW for a bit. I took some measurements of my tweeters. Then played with the EQ. Didn't get a chance to re-read the very helpful post from earlier. But I didn't have much time.

I took my current tune then deleted all the EQing and created a new preset to play with. After I took the mesurments it seemed kinda stange how low the volume was. Then I realized the conductor was a few clicks down after I took the mesurments. I'll have to re-do it later.

Here's what it looked like. It kept giving me a message saying my target curve had too much of a deviation ( not those exact words) so I set a LR2 at 20k and it let me play after.

I used a 1/48 like I was told, then used the Var-smoothing. I also bumped the overlap, And took 1xx averages. 😃 little by little. I'll get the hang of it.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

I was able to take measurements a few nights ago to start me off. These are non EQed with my crossover from my previous tune.

I had some time yesterday so I started EQing on REW each individual driver. I brought the Laptop in and did it in the house. Then applied each EQ at home also. I ran Demo mode then loaded my tune. Today I had some time to go see what it looked like.

With EQ on each. Then I played the front and rear sub together. Midbass response in doors is terrible. I didn't try n boost the nulls.

The pairs together. No EQ yet, I'll work on those soon. Midbass response is a lil better here.

All left and right together with the bass on the conductor at half. To try n match the output of the front sub. When I did my tunning with the Helix Auto tune I liked a peek at 40hz. After I get it as good as I can I'll see if I change my mind. If not I'm putting that peek back in. Mids are a lil low too but I got plenty of gain to bring them up a lil.

I haven't started on the centre yet. I'm trying to get left and right play as good as I can. Then I'll tune the centre to match the output of the L/R playing together.

I also have the right side down 1db cuz it was kinda hot sitting in the passenger side. That my come down a lil more to try n even out the response on both sides. For some reason the right side was louder then the left in my seat. After it's all set and done I'll take some measurements on the passenger side too. See what it looks like there. But I'm more concerned about my seat. She always says it sounds good, but what does she know lol.

 

[Speedhunter]

I expected basshead's sub will touch that 20Hz with more enthusiasm not in level with midbass.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

I expected basshead's sub will touch that 20Hz with more enthusiasm not in level with midbass.

That's with my factory head unit. I can't replace it unfortunately. And it has a HPF around 30hz. After I'm done with a few different tunes with my head unit I'll work on a few with my DAC. Plan is 3 tunes with my factory head unit. 2 seat, single seat with and withought the centre. And which ever one I like best I'll recreate with my DAC.

 

[JLyon1]

Set your time alignment to the driver’s seat instead of between, at least for one tune or something. Your passenger seat probably won’t notice a difference, but you should.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

Set your time alignment to the driver’s seat instead of between, at least for one tune or something. Your passenger seat probably won’t notice a difference, but you should.

I was planning to on a seperate tune. But I drive with my left and my elbow on the centre console. So my head most of the time is closer to where my time alightment is now vs my head rest when I'm driving. I'll do a seperate tune though.

 

[JLyon1]

I was planning to on a seperate tune. But I drive with my left and my elbow on the centre console. So my head most of the time is closer to where my time alightment is now vs my head rest when I'm driving. I'll do a seperate tune though.

Okay, it might not matter then, but I at least thought I noticed an improvement when going from center console to driver’s. Because you have the center channels, you can do a ‘true’ 2-seat tune in the future. I have no clue what’s involved in that, lol. Thanks for sharing your REW stuff!

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

Okay, it might not matter then, but I at least thought I noticed an improvement when going from center console to driver’s. Because you have the center channels, you can do a ‘true’ 2-seat tune in the future. I have no clue what’s involved in that, lol. Thanks for sharing your REW stuff!

I don't know what a real true 2 seat tune is ether I'm just shooting from the hip to see what sounds good.

 

[JLyon1]

I don't know what a real true 2 seat tune is ether I'm just shooting from the hip to see what sounds good.

I think the Helix has a center-channel function- I don’t know how it works, but it can be made so that each seat is essentially the ‘driver’ seat? Like, the Helix treats the center channel differently and has it send partial **** sometimes so that each seat is time aligned? I’m way out of my depth, but I think that’s a ‘true’ 2-seat tune.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

Yes I have the centre algorithm. I also used the Helix Auto time alightment and it worked really well. But my time alightment was made to in-between both seats where both our head reside. The centre algorithm removes hard right/left and only leaves common signal.