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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I've decided that I want to upgrade my stock sound system in my 2005 G35 coupe. I have the crappy bose system and the CD player gave out so I figured if I'm getting a deck why not do everything else. I'll probably do the whole thing in pieces. Here's what I was thinking.
Head unit:
Pioneer AVH-X4600BT
That much i'm pretty much set on. It has three 4v pre outs and I mainly want it for it's iphone integration. Here is where I need some guidence

Amps:
JL JX3640/4 for the front a rear speaker
JL JX500/1 for the sub

Fronts components: here are my choices.
Image Dynamics CTX65cs
Polk db6501
Polk mm6501
JBL MS-62C

For the rear, I haven't decided if I want them. I was going to get a pair of coaxials but Have been reading that it might mess up my sound stage. I think I might try and get some 6.5'' rear fill speaker though as I have passengers frequently. If I get more expensive components I'll probably hold off on the rear speakers.

Sub options:
Polk mm1240DVC
Image Dynamics ID12D4 version 3
Image Dynamics IDQ12D4 version 3
JBL MS-12SD4
when I do my sub I'm also going to take out my 6x9 deck speakers and leave the grill so the sub can kind of port into the cabin. Good idea?

I'm going to purchase the head unit first. Then when I have the money I'll do the cabin speakers with the amp. And lastly, the sub and amp. My friend does car audio work so we'll be making the sub enclosure and re-doing my trunk. I will also be looking into deadening my car to maximize SQ. Any tips or suggestions?
 

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My only suggestion and it may come down to dollars is to do one 5 channel amp if you are insistant on doing rear speakers. Then if further down the line you decide to upgrade and not do rears, you can always bridge the power to the fronts. :)
 

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Sounds like you pretty much have it sorted,just need to decide on components etc. Nice choice on the headunit u should be happy with that. So for components id spend as much as you can afford, as 80% of the sound you will hear is the up front stage. I wouldn't worry about rear fill yet, u can always add some coaxials later on if u fell u want them but if u do later id run them off the deck not an amp and turn them down. If u want a good sound stage u shouldn't hear the rears in the drivers seat. Are u thinking about sound processing? For the components what is your budget? I would recommend the hertz high energy or the hybrid audio range. Are you looking at 2 or 3 way also? And what sizes mid and tweeter can you fit? Also think about sound deadening too, it will really help u get the most mid bass out of the mids in the components, I'd do the front doors at least. I haven't heard the Polk components so I can't comment. For the sub stage do u want sq? Or spl. I love the image dynamics idq but the id max gives u a wee bit more output. and your better off with a single sub with high sensitivity and of better quality rather than buy 2 lower quality subs. What's your overall budget
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My only suggestion and it may come down to dollars is to do one 5 channel amp if you are insistant on doing rear speakers. Then if further down the line you decide to upgrade and not do rears, you can always bridge the power to the fronts. :)
I was looking at the JL HD700/5 but that's $500 only puts 300watts to the sub and when bridged is 200watts per channel. The JX360/4 is $150 on Amazon and will put 180watts each channel when bridged. And the JX500/1 is $200 on amazon. Unless you have any suggestions for other amps. I really haven't looked too much at other amps because I've heard good things about jl and the prices I listed seem pretty good for what I'm getting.
 

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I have heard good things about the PPI P1000.1 bout $170 on amazon. Totally different amp but im more than happy with my PPI BK800.4 as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like you pretty much have it sorted,just need to decide on components etc. Nice choice on the headunit u should be happy with that. So for components id spend as much as you can afford, as 80% of the sound you will hear is the up front stage. I wouldn't worry about rear fill yet, u can always add some coaxials later on if u fell u want them but if u do later id run them off the deck not an amp and turn them down. If u want a good sound stage u shouldn't hear the rears in the drivers seat. Are u thinking about sound processing? For the components what is your budget? I would recommend the hertz high energy or the hybrid audio range. Are you looking at 2 or 3 way also? And what sizes mid and tweeter can you fit? Also think about sound deadening too, it will really help u get the most mid bass out of the mids in the components, I'd do the front doors at least. I haven't heard the Polk components so I can't comment. For the sub stage do u want sq? Or spl. I love the image dynamics idq but the id max gives u a wee bit more output. and your better off with a single sub with high sensitivity and of better quality rather than buy 2 lower quality subs. What's your overall budget
Wouldn't the coaxial running off the head have a worse sound quality than the amp even though it's 50w per channel? My main concern is sound quality. I'm not trying to enter contests I just want to have the clarity to play jazz and acoustic music but still have the low end to play metal, rock and rap music. Also I don't have the trunk space to house 2 subs. One will be plenty. Not including sound deadening and enclosures for the sub(since I'm re doing my whole trunk to get more trunk space) I would like to does $300-$400 each part. So $300-$400 for the cabin speakers and amp and the same for sub and amp. If there is a huge increase in sq slightly outside $400 I may go there but I rather try to keep it closer to $300. I can get the jx360/4 amp for $150 and the components I listed run from $100-$200. How much are the hertz speakers? I heard good things about the brand but didn't really look too much into them. How do they compare to the image dynamics CTX components? Which woofer would you go with? My stock system has 6.5" in the front door and tweeter on the door next to the a pillar. The rears are 6.5" coaxials if I'm not mistaken. There isn't a separate tweeter for the rear. And the back deck are two 6x9s. I'm not looking to modify my interior to fit other mid range speakers so the stock places/sizes will have to do. For sound processing do you mean running active? I don't know too much about how that works. I do on the other hand have a good grasp on frequencies as I am a sound man on Sundays and EQ/mix a live band where everything is mic-ed and/or isolated. In the end I want a semi budget system that sounds great and I'm trying to do it properly the first time. Since I'm breaking it up it's easier to be a little more flexible with my budget
 

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We'll that would be up to you if you want an external dsp or not. Mainly budget depending but if u want to go all out I would go with a dsp (bit ten or bit one or jbl ms8). Since you want sound quality I would recommend getting a really decent set of components up front. And get a 6 1/2 inch set so u can use the factory location in the door and either use the factory tweeter position in the a pillar or u can go in the door panel itself. Not 100 % sure on the price of the hertz components but for around $400 for a 61/2 inch comp set look at the high energy hsk 165 for $400 or the cxs range for image dynamics, I also love the focal polyglass components. What brands do u have locally , that u can hear them in a shop? The jx360/4 is a good amp if u can get it for a good price 150$ is a steal and u could bridge it for the front components. For the sub stage the idq is a very good sub or for a little for output and xmax look at a single idmax 10 or 12". For the substage are you looking for absolute sq clean subtle sounding or more output for deep bass as well for hip hop etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have heard good things about the PPI P1000.1 bout $170 on amazon. Totally different amp but im more than happy with my PPI BK800.4 as well
they are bpth priced pretty similar to the JLs too. that sounds like a great deal. How is the sound quality compared to the JLs but wouldn't the 800.4 over power my components? the CTXs are rated at 100watts rms and 200watts peak
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We'll that would be up to you if you want an external dsp or not. Mainly budget depending but if u want to go all out I would go with a dsp (bit ten or bit one or jbl ms8). Since you want sound quality I would recommend getting a really decent set of components up front. And get a 6 1/2 inch set so u can use the factory location in the door and either use the factory tweeter position in the a pillar or u can go in the door panel itself. Not 100 % sure on the price of the hertz components but for around $400 for a 61/2 inch comp set look at the high energy hsk 165 for $400 or the cxs range for image dynamics, I also love the focal polyglass components. What brands do u have locally , that u can hear them in a shop? The jx360/4 is a good amp if u can get it for a good price 150$ is a steal and u could bridge it for the front components. For the sub stage the idq is a very good sub or for a little for output and xmax look at a single idmax 10 or 12". For the substage are you looking for absolute sq clean subtle sounding or more output for deep bass as well for hip hop etc?
$400 for components is a little out of my range as is a signal processor. I would like to keep it $400 for the components and the amp. If i bridge the JL amp and have 180 watts per channel going to the CTXs would that be too much power? They are rated at 100watts rms and 200watts peak. For a sub I would prefer more subtle than just hitting low notes although i would still like to hit them. My main genre that i listen to isn't hip hop. I just listen to that garbage for fun. I listen to more indie, rock, latin and metal. Sound quality for the price is my main concern but hitting would be a nice plus. WOuld you suggest a 10'' or 12''. I'm leaning towards a 12'' because I know with bass cabinets(I'm a bass player) a good 12'' speaker should be able to be subtle while hitting decently low. It might be different in a car audio setting so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. And as for listening at a shop. I haven't looked yet. That's next. I want to have a good idea of what I want before I walk into a shop. I'm pretty new to car audio so the last thing I want is for someone to try and capitalize on me because I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I've been doing research on speakers for the past few weeks and learned good amount about car audio.
 

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Doesn't a G35 with Bose come with 10's and 3.5's in the doors and then tweeters somewhere?

Going from a 3-way with the ability to run large midbass speakers to an aftermarket 2-way with 6.5's doesn't really sound like an upgrade to me...

I'd do your head unit and amps/sub, then save some more money and get some better speakers taking advantage of the stock locations. You'll be glad you did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
For rears speakers would anyone suggest just getting a regular driver instead of components for some mids or mid bass and raise the hpf on the fronts. Maybe give the fronts 400Hz and up and the rears 100Hz-400Hz? and the sub the rest?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
For rears speakers would anyone suggest just getting a regular driver instead of components for some mids or mid bass and raise the hpf on the fronts. Maybe give the fronts 400Hz and up and the rears 100Hz-400Hz? and the sub the rest?
Maybe the G37 does. I have a 2005 G35 and that just has four 6.5"s with two front tweeters and two 6"x9" on the rear shelf
 
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