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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to have a DC 1000.4 added between my Ford OEM HU and my comp's and I'm thinking that even though the Zapco has extensive DSP capabilities, I should have a clean signal going into the amp to take the most advanage of the amp's DSP. FYI, this is beyond my install capabilities, so I'm having it installed by a pro, and the amp will power a pair of clarus 6.5's and a 10" sub in the trunk.

Will adding a summing capability make a noticable improvement? If so, what summing unit would be most appropriate considering I don't need DSP? Budget is $100-$150, and I'm not opposed to buying used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
OK, Ok...you talked me into it..........I'll try the audio controls LC6i and let you know how it turns out....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's that? There's one on ebay, cheap? Cool, thanks for the tip


No, I'm not trying to get my count up, Why do you ask????
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Plan is to come off the HU, and by pass any OE amps - I believe there are only 2 OE external amps, both of which were for the 8" subs in the doors. I'm not aware of any other amps on the shaker 500 system.

From what I've read, the lc61 would be ideal, or am I missing something?
 

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If you are pulling the signal before the factory amp, then it's a line level signal, the lc6 is a loc that turns a high level signal (speaker inputs) into a low level signal (rca's)

If you do this, you don't want a lc6, a ac matrix should work though. You will just need to splice RCA 's to your hu outs
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just in case anyone follows this thread at some point, here's the answer I rec'd from audio controls:

"The LC6i is an appropriate piece for OEM Integration as long as you're dealing with outputs like Front, Rear, and Sub or fewer. It will sum either ch 2 or ch 3 OR ch 2 AND ch 3 to the Main output where all combined signals output. No "Auto" summing. You must set the internal jumpers in order to sum. Avoid summing Front and Rear signals together. You would likely suffer from phase cancellation issues."

FWIW, my installer has talked me into using the Cache COE6, claiming he hasn't had the noise issues in the 30 or so intalls with the COE6 that he had with the LC6i..... note that the claim on the LC6i noise in unverified, just repeating what I was told

Tomorrow's the big install date, and I'm getting anxious to hear what a complete system sounds like.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
On the outside chance someone may find this useful, I had the Cache COE8 installed along with the amplifier, as well as had it tuned by the installer.

What an amazing difference! The clarity of the Clarus speakers, along with their phenomenal mid-bass just wasn't coming thru before. I can even hear the JL W6 very well now, which was relatively mute working off the OEM/ReQ modified signal

To answer a couple of Noob questions:

- Yes, definitely add a good amplifier to your system, the realism of the sound, along with all the octaves being present is fully worth the extra money you would save by not putting the amp in. It was easily a ten-fold difference, IMHO
- Yes I did need auto summing while still retaining the OEM HU, the amp can only do so much with a partial/OEM equalized signal and this was definitely the right combo for my installation

Now my next quest, seems my BT streaming and USB sources won't generate a stereo output, only one channel and the sub are currently coming thru - even while there is stereo output for the CD & Radio.
 
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