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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys i need a bit of help here, obviously im sort of new to this whole thing. I got the basics down but math and really aint my forte and I always second guess or over think stuff LOL even if it’s all good! I wanna make shure this is good? So tell me what ya think or if you would go another route with the equipment i have?
2019 Highlander, 2 2ohm 12” kicker comp Rs 500w rms with a cxa800.1 amp wired up to run at 1ohm (i think), sealed box with LC2i & 1 farad cap an volt reader with 4awg wires 120amp fuse under hood and 60amp fuses in distribution block.
Im thinking of a LC7 change/upgrading from the LC2 so i can run all door speakers after their upgrade along with a 300w amp plus i need to upgrade the cap to a 2 farad cuz lights dim when i put volume up to about 35-40 stock radio only goes to 60 or 70. Then later im getting 2 12s wit the 800w rms and a cxa1800.1 amp with a ported box.
Ima add pics ina min!
 

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I think you need to upgrade the alternator. Stock is around 150 amps. I would get a dsp instead of the lc7. And you will need to sound deaden.

Lights dimming now? Need electrical upgrade.
Bigger amp, needs bigger electrical.
Second amp for door speakers, again, electrical upgrade needed.
More bass from the subs and louder door speakers means more vibration and sound deadening is needed.
 

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Big 3? Upgrade alternator? WTF????? He has a 300 watt class D amp. Those are both ridiculous suggestions. He is about 2000 watts away from even considering either of those 2.
 

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You jus
How old is your battery? Like Mini stated you aren’t using that much power.
t
How old is your battery? Like Mini stated you aren’t using that much power.
You just said it nicer than I did. OP, also get rid of that cap, it is not doing anything for you. My guess here is your lights are dimming because your wires connection to the battery, or your ground, or your battery itself are in need of work. Also what is that Stinger LED.
 

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This isn’t always recommended and takes more work but I have never had issues running both power and ground directly from the battery, new cars don’t always have the best ground where you think it might be. Lights dimming might be normal if your car is just idling the alternator needs rpm 1000-2000 to put out its full power. As stated remove the cap.
 

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What’s up with the grounds? Any reason why you’re using two ground distros and two ground wires? Any pics of how you grounded them?

Previous posts are spot on... should be able to run that with stock electrical...
 

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Big 3? Upgrade alternator? WTF????? He has a 300 watt class D amp. Those are both ridiculous suggestions. He is about 2000 watts away from even considering either of those 2.
@miniSQ , I like you, you have great advice and have been very helpful to me many times. But insulting me is not only rude but also you didnt bother to read the first post.
Some facts:
He has an 800W amp now. Not 300W.
He is upgrading to an 1800W amp for the sub AND another 300W amp for the doors. That is 2100 watts.
The stinger LED is a voltmeter.

This is why people leave this site. Rude comments and arrogant replies. You dont see this stuff on any of the other forums I am on. Just downright rude people. Do you talk this way to your friends in real life, or people you work with? No. So why is it ok in a forum? Screw this place. Full of pompous rude people.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What’s up with the grounds? Any reason why you’re using two ground distros and two ground wires? Any pics of how you grounded them?

Previous posts are spot on... should be able to run that with stock electrical...
i read something online that grounding the amp and cap together can bring/ allow for interference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Anywho ima change out the cap today for a 2.5 farad and see what happens! Btw the car is new so battery shouldn’t need work or replacement but who knows wit these dam computers on wheels stupid thing has too many electronics this was much easier with my 90 accord LOL THANKS for the list of things to look into
 

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@miniSQ , I like you, you have great advice and have been very helpful to me many times. But insulting me is not only rude but also you didnt bother to read the first post.
Some facts:
He has an 800W amp now. Not 300W.
He is upgrading to an 1800W amp for the sub AND another 300W amp for the doors. That is 2100 watts.
The stinger LED is a voltmeter.

This is why people leave this site. Rude comments and arrogant replies. You dont see this stuff on any of the other forums I am on. Just downright rude people. Do you talk this way to your friends in real life, or people you work with? No. So why is it ok in a forum? Screw this place. Full of pompous rude people.
He has lights dimming with a kicker class D 300 watt amp. I did miss the part where he had it wired down to 1ohm, but still he does not need to replace the alternator or do the big 3 for a 800 watt amp. Lets try and solve the problem he has now. If he is planning on upgrading the amp he has that upgraded imaginary amp is not causing his problems that he has now.

People cojuld also be leaving here because of the terrible advice they get from people who make unnecessary suggestions.
 
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OP: rewire your subs in series to a 4 ohm load and see if just doing that eliminates your dimming. Also get rid of that cap all together when you do this test. One more request can you share a picture of your ground connection and tell us where it is.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You jus

t

You just said it nicer than I did. OP, also get rid of that cap, it is not doing anything for you. My guess here is your lights are dimming because your wires connection to the battery, or your ground, or your battery itself are in need of work. Also what is that Stinger LED.
I only have a power wire to battery the LED i jus threw in to throw in got a kick out of it for a bit it was free from install shop here near my house I definitely know its not needed like putting LEDs around your woofers. ****s n giggles is all! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OP: rewire your subs in series to a 4 ohm load and see if just doing that eliminates your dimming. Also get rid of that cap all together when you do this test. One more request can you share a picture of your ground connection and tell us where it is.
One of them i have next to a factory ground connection the other is on the back cross brace where i saw in another vid to ground the wires for the trailer hitch, i know something else entirely different! But the lil bit of paint is stripped away an i got nuts n bolts holding the connections.
 

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One of them i have next to a factory ground connection the other is on the back cross brace where i saw in another vid to ground the wires for the trailer hitch, i know something else entirely different! But the lil bit of paint is stripped away an i got nuts n bolts holding the connections.
You should try and have your entire aftermarket system grounded to a single point. And as was stated earlier, sometimes in newer cars that needs to be at the battery or inside the engine bay because cars these days have some crazy chassis' that may not have a direct lead back to the battery.

As for wiring your subs to 4 ohms...please try that as it will cut down on the amp draw from the battery and alternator. I am not suggesting leaving it that way. Its just a helpful too for people that can't see your system help troubeshoot.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You should try and have your entire aftermarket system grounded to a single point. And as was stated earlier, sometimes in newer cars that needs to be at the battery or inside the engine bay because cars these days have some crazy chassis' that may not have a direct lead back to the battery.

As for wiring your subs to 4 ohms...please try that as it will cut down on the amp draw from the battery and alternator. I am not suggesting leaving it that way. Its just a helpful too for people that can't see your system help troubeshoot.
I got ya, if i wire my subs to 4ohm load my amp wont push the speakers 4ohms on my amp is only 300w i got 2 12s that need 400-500w each so the lowest i can go with this amp is 2ohms which is 600w. Ive actually got the wrong amp for my woofers i was supposed to get the 1200.1 according to cruchfield... i was gonna ground using jus one dist block but i then read about it inviting noise/interference into the signal. But the guys at cruchfield were the ones who told me first that i can just use a grounding distribution block. Atleast its only little things i thot the fuses where wrong. For when i step up my whole system im thinking of getting a super cap with a battery thats made for car audio like the XS.
 
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