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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to run 2 - 12" subs - sealed or vented ? Which ever you all fill will do there best, from your own experience.

Thus far I am considering

1) 12" JBL GTI MII

2) 12" JL not sure which model would be best choice (no experience with them)

3) IDQ 12V3.4

4) 12" Focal Polyglass - Had in past, loved them, deep tight and articulated in ported box

5) Any others that should be considered ? ? ?
 

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I like the IDQ's......but I think you might already know that. :)

You really wouldn't go wrong with the Focal's or the JBL's either.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I like the IDQ's......but I think you might already know that. :)

You really wouldn't go wrong with the Focal's or the JBL's either.
THANKS JAY

Persuing those names you sent for a quote to do the gti

Do appreciate the tme you took to chat with me...

Decisions, decisions, decisions...
 

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why the gti? brand new its $500 from sonic, thats redic and there is better out there
 

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why the gti? brand new its $500 from sonic, thats redic and there is better out there
Show me one of the others and please explain why it's better than the GTi from JBL...

Every other woof listed is "just another woofer" as in standard motor design with nothing in them to warrant high prices other than "brand". Do a search on the ID. There are arguments ad infinitum!

Only the GTi has any advanced engineering on the motor as in a way more advanced motor. It will provide lower distortion than ANY of those others listed. The only way the OP could come even remotely close to the WGTi would be to go with the JL W7 line... And that happens to generally be more expensive than the JBL... And still not better.
 

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Price... if he is willing to spend $1000 on 2 12" subs, regardless of sound, go for it. he said he wanted 2 12s.

im on vacation but when i get home ill plug in the gti in winisd and i bet it doesnt do anything special that cant be achieved for cheaper.

ive heard a JL W7 in the JL HO box. No telling how much that costs... I spent $200 on a 15" sub, built a box, its slightly louder, and no difference in sound quality to my ear.

Pretty sure that gti is not justified by its price.
 

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Thank you... You have totally answered about 90 percent of all sub questions. My point is that especially regarding car audio usage, there is no reason to spend big bucks on subs. to most peoples ears you WILL NOT hear a bit of difference. it really comes down to enclosure and implementation in the vehicle.

My point on the JBL and all high dollar subs is "If you are going to be paying above 150-200 dollars a woofer, at least let there be a reason for it other than brand." In subwoofers, this would be the motor. Soft parts are pretty much the same in cost across the board unless you get into carbon fiber or titanium cones. Since i work in a manufacturing facility with an on site engineering staff, I appreciate the added cost of said engineering. Even if some aspect is licensed like XBL or LMS or in the JBL Dynamic Drive. OR at least get a woofer with something added to reduce distortion or thermal compression etc...

It's why I recommend Dayton Reference HO line so much. It's why the Acoustic Elegance line is so popular. Just a well designed low distortion woofer that for the money will not be beat by 95 percent of those listed above. And Bang for the buck.... really hard to beat.

Let's face it. Most of the sub requests are from people who are either wanting to add some decent low end to there system. they are not going to compete. Just want to feel their music a bit. OR "kids" who want everybody in a 3 block radius to hear them. oh yeah and impress their friends. Both sides run 500-1500 watts on the sub side of things. They fret and worry and spend way to much time on sub brands... and in most cases the people who are recommending brands are recommending this years buzzwords on branding. The ID's,JL,Fi's,Re's DD's etc.... All good woofer brands. But why spend big bucks when a less expensive brand will do the same job, just as well built, better engineered in a lot of cases, and again, cost less?

If you need brand recognition for some reason, then by all means... get that brand. If you have had good results with that brand, great! But a lot of times there is not a reason for a brands high price either in specs or real world performance to warrant that price that can be measured.
 

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Thank you... You have totally answered about 90 percent of all sub questions. My point is that especially regarding car audio usage, there is no reason to spend big bucks on subs. to most peoples ears you WILL NOT hear a bit of difference. it really comes down to enclosure and implementation in the vehicle.

My point on the JBL and all high dollar subs is "If you are going to be paying above 150-200 dollars a woofer, at least let there be a reason for it other than brand." In subwoofers, this would be the motor. Soft parts are pretty much the same in cost across the board unless you get into carbon fiber or titanium cones. Since i work in a manufacturing facility with an on site engineering staff, I appreciate the added cost of said engineering. Even if some aspect is licensed like XBL or LMS or in the JBL Dynamic Drive. OR at least get a woofer with something added to reduce distortion or thermal compression etc...

It's why I recommend Dayton Reference HO line so much. It's why the Acoustic Elegance line is so popular. Just a well designed low distortion woofer that for the money will not be beat by 95 percent of those listed above. And Bang for the buck.... really hard to beat.

Let's face it. Most of the sub requests are from people who are either wanting to add some decent low end to there system. they are not going to compete. Just want to feel their music a bit. OR "kids" who want everybody in a 3 block radius to hear them. oh yeah and impress their friends. Both sides run 500-1500 watts on the sub side of things. They fret and worry and spend way to much time on sub brands... and in most cases the people who are recommending brands are recommending this years buzzwords on branding. The ID's,JL,Fi's,Re's DD's etc.... All good woofer brands. But why spend big bucks when a less expensive brand will do the same job, just as well built, better engineered in a lot of cases, and again, cost less?

If you need brand recognition for some reason, then by all means... get that brand. If you have had good results with that brand, great! But a lot of times there is not a reason for a brands high price either in specs or real world performance to warrant that price that can be measured.
indeed indeed. I personally would like to be able to have someone go wow what subs u running, and i tell them something like AE or dayton, they gonna be like what? huh? and thats louder than my JL?! and u spent how much less?! boy i dont enjoy my setup as much anymore hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #15
He wasn't refering to the JBL GTI in his response to me. The Vehicle this equipment is going into is a VW GTI....all the GTI's get confusing...lol
Thanks Jay,
for clearifying that for cruzer.

Sorry cruz, didnt catch that.


All the more reason to have the gti in the vw gti, just kidding fellows.

Think I will be going with the IDQ 12V3.4

If I could only hear the Daytons.... another desision may have been made
 

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Price... if he is willing to spend $1000 on 2 12" subs, regardless of sound, go for it. he said he wanted 2 12s.

im on vacation but when i get home ill plug in the gti in winisd and i bet it doesnt do anything special that cant be achieved for cheaper.

ive heard a JL W7 in the JL HO box. No telling how much that costs... I spent $200 on a 15" sub, built a box, its slightly louder, and no difference in sound quality to my ear.

Pretty sure that gti is not justified by its price.
your only relation to the gti is plugging it in to winisd? :eek::eek: Before you offer advice you should have experience. If you offer advice, it should be with a preface that you don't have experience with product "a" and that what you say is your opinion only.

don't lead people astray because you think winisd will tell you all you need to know.

diyma used to people offering suggestions off of factual information, and now we have people like you that discount quite possibly one of the best subs on the market, simply because you think it won't plot any different on winisd. And even if it did plot the same, that shows you nothing in areas of transient response, attack, decay, etc... which in my opinion would really sell or not sell a sub
 

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Thanks Jay,
for clearifying that for cruzer.

Sorry cruz, didnt catch that.


All the more reason to have the gti in the vw gti, just kidding fellows.

Think I will be going with the IDQ 12V3.4

If I could only hear the Daytons.... another desision may have been made
what are u looking for between the idqs and the dayton? which will be louder, or which will sound better? ill plug them in winisd and see what it says real quick
 

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your only relation to the gti is plugging it in to winisd? :eek::eek: Before you offer advice you should have experience. If you offer advice, it should be with a preface that you don't have experience with product "a" and that what you say is your opinion only.

don't lead people astray because you think winisd will tell you all you need to know.

diyma used to people offering suggestions off of factual information, and now we have people like you that discount quite possibly one of the best subs on the market, simply because you think it won't plot any different on winisd. And even if it did plot the same, that shows you nothing in areas of transient response, attack, decay, etc... which in my opinion would really sell or not sell a sub
I didnt tell him to not go with the GTI because of winisd. i told him if he wanted to spend $1000, for two 12" subs, go for it.

I based it on the price and only the price. I have never heard the GTI and i never said i did. I never said go IDQs because ive heard both them and the GTIs and the idqs were better.

If i said that, please quote it and prove me wrong. Im pretty sure i didnt say it, i did say i could graph it in winisd and see if something does similar. But that was after i said price is the reason not to go with them.
 

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I didnt tell him to not go with the GTI because of winisd. i told him if he wanted to spend $1000, for two 12" subs, go for it.

I based it on the price and only the price. I have never heard the GTI and i never said i did. I never said go IDQs because ive heard both them and the GTIs and the idqs were better.

If i said that, please quote it and prove me wrong. Im pretty sure i didnt say it, but perhaps i did slip up and say something to that affect.
well, first off, the GTI's aren't 500 a piece. In fact I am selling two and would be more than happy to let them go for 500 plus shipping. If that wasn't worthwhile, than the OP can get on ebay, and find w15gti's selling for 340 shipped all day long.

the OP nowhere specified a price. It seems like the OP and you have some sort of connection, so my guess is that he didn't consider it simply because you said bad choice, whatever the reason. That may not be the case, IDK.

Either way, I don't like people coming on here spewing bad information because they haven't done their research.

i also never suggested that you pointed him to the IDQ, but that's neither here nor there.

Use winISD, or unibox, as tools, not the end all be alls. If you got two subs that plotted the same, put them in an a/b test, I would be willing to bet you that you could tell a difference between them, even though they plotted the same. why? because these programs don't tell you the whole story just be looking at the spl tab, or the transfer function tab. Use it as a tool, but if you use it like a crutch like you are suggesting that you do, then I feel that you are missing out on some excellent opportunities
 
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