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I am about to re-do the round "snowman" pods I have on my front door sail panels as Ive blown the 2" midrange on one side and have always wanted to try 3.5s in the same location. Im using 3.8" styro balls wrapped in foil then the fleece. The first round was fine with one layer of fleece and the resin, and I realize it would probably be fine again with one layer but the option exists now and it wont later. I was thinking of quickly saturating the first layer with the resin, wrapping it with another layer of fleece, then hitting that second layer with resin too. Drivers are Dayton ND-91s and im putting 40 watts to them probably from around 250-300hz to the tweeter crossover at 3k. Two layers would be overkill, right?
 

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No fiberglass?
 
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you ideally want as little base layer as possible. You want fiberglass. Thats where the strength comes from.
 

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Only flece will not give you sufficient strenght. Apply a couple layers of fiberglass and smooth/design them with filler with strands. You can apply damping plates on inside panel walls to supress resonances and ringing of the enclosure, which is common issue with any fiberglass enclosure/pod

dont save material where it is not needed to... make panel walls thick and super solid...it is always a good thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So if anything I should do the fleece and then layer on some fibberglass I guess. The first round was just a single layer of fleece and resin and it was fine. Its not like im trying to hold a 12" and 5000w. I just did the fleece/resin layer and am waiting for it to cure. I'll see how it looks/feels after the cure. Now that I think about it it needs to be somewhat lightweight too due to the mounting location. They are hollow-bolted to the sail panels which are just snapped to the door with some friction clips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With the round shape and pretty thick layer of resin in the fleece they seem nice and strong. They'll only see 40w and I think the biggest challenge now is to completely seal them. Hopefully will be a meaningful upgrade from the tiny little 2" drivers. FYI using Dayton Audio ND-91-4s (up from ND-65-4s).

Now won't you join me in prayer for the 6.5" midwoofers (rated to 100w rms/200w max) in the doors which are about to see at least 400w RMS each... lolz. (Was also driving them with 40wpc but I decided too much is better than too little).
 

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With the round shape and pretty thick layer of resin in the fleece they seem nice and strong. They'll only see 40w and I think the biggest challenge now is to completely seal them. Hopefully will be a meaningful upgrade from the tiny little 2" drivers. FYI using Dayton Audio ND-91-4s (up from ND-65-4s).

Now won't you join me in prayer for the 6.5" midwoofers (rated to 100w rms/200w max) in the doors which are about to see at least 400w RMS each... lolz. (Was also driving them with 40wpc but I decided too much is better than too little).
Hope those pods aren’t gonna sing like a bird resonating.
 

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As others have already stated multiple times, you really need multiple layers of actual fiberglass material to make these pods as strong and non-resonant as possible. It might not seem like there is that much energy created by the midrange driver, but sealed, spherical pods such as these will ring, sing, and resonate like crazy. And don't even try to play them anywhere near their Fs. If you stick with these pods, definitely line them with a thick milkshake and good CLD, then stuff them with plenty of polyfill or natural lambswool batting (my personal preference).

Using lots & lots of small, pre-prepared "patches" of fiberglass mat (not woven cloth) that are applied in a random overlapping method will give you the best results on spheres and surfaces with tight, compound radius curves.

But since you're doing fiberglass fabrication anyway, why not just build them into the Sail Panels or A-pillars?

Using spherical pods in a vehicle aren't as advantageous as many think. You would probably be better off using triangular, wedge-shaped enclosures that are placed on top of the dash in the extreme left and right corners and right up against the windshield with the least amount of bezels or surrounding baffles as possible.

In addition, this will nearly always result in a "free" boost in the low-end response from the midrange drivers due to the corner boundary loading, so you are less apt to need to cross them quite as low and drive them to their limits & significant distortion.

And due to how far the spherical pods will project into or towards the center of the dash and away from the A-pillars, you shouldn't lose any soundstage width by using the corner dash-top enclosures instead.

 

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Super confusing not laying a few layers of glass down, I mean, you were already set up with everything needed. Workspace layed out, resin open, gloves on, it would have been .05% more effort and $8 for a pack of bondo glass from Home Depot to do it properly and have a solid a$$ enclosure. With all due respect, why even ask the forum. It can be argued that the install integrity is #1 priority.
 

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Super confusing not laying a few layers of glass down, I mean, you were already set up with everything needed. Workspace layed out, resin open, gloves on, it would have been .05% more effort and $8 for a pack of bondo glass from Home Depot to do it properly and have a solid a$$ enclosure. With all due respect, why even ask the forum. It can be argued that the install integrity is #1 priority.
Could of even splurged a little and got some woven glass cloth. Didn't even need fleece at all.
 

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Could of even splurged a little and got some woven glass cloth. Didn't even need fleece at all.
I spent more time in a crafting store then a preschool teacher finding the perfect stretchy material for the base layer of my glass fabs. If you’re gonna skimp on the install, don’t put all the interior panel clips back 😉but never make a thin enclosure 🤷🏼‍♂️
 

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I spent more time in a crafting store then a preschool teacher finding the perfect stretchy material for the base layer of my glass fabs. If you’re gonna skimp on the install, don’t put all the interior panel clips back 😉but never make a thin enclosure 🤷🏼‍♂️
You have clips left after you pull the panel off? I always thought they were break aways. Pain in the dick to pull out too.
I thought everyone just used silicone to put the panels back on......
 

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You have clips left after you pull the panel off? I always thought they were break aways. Pain in the dick to pull out too.
I thought everyone just used silicone to put the panels back on......
I just put the door handle screws back in and call it a day so I can get back to asking questions on here that no one knows the answers to.
 

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There is a material like fleece that is many times used for small panels like mids and tweeters, some use it even for midbass door panels. After soaking one layer of material is of about 4-5mm thickness and pretty strong. Installers apply only filler with strands over this fleece material to smooth everything out and wrap it in material of choice. Me personaly, Im not a fan of it.

Imho, spherical enclosures help with lowering diffraction on outside surface edges, and eliminates/diminishing standing waves inside of the enclosure.
 
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