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Discussion Starter #1
So, I have space for some big ass midbasses in my front doors. They are going to be driven at 75W at 4ohm.

However, I also have space for some big ass midbasses in my rear doors. I could install a second set and run them in parallel with the midbasses in the front doors. This combo would be driven at 120W at 2 ohm. I realize each driver would get slightly less power. However, i would have the benefit of running two drivers.

This is the first time I tried this. I never ran midbasses in a rear door. Your thoughts? Would this be tough to tune and integrate with a sub ?

Ge0
 

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the front is more than enough if done right, i have had systems in 3 macan turbos, front doors only
 

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No need

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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It’s not gonna work well. If you already are running big midbass up front, you can run into staging issues with a set in the rear door. You also won’t be able to real tune a set based on you running parallel with the fronts. I’ve read about rear midbass being done working and they spent a lot
Of time on cross over points and time alignment which you lose running parallel
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the front is more than enough if done right, i have had systems in 3 macan turbos, front doors only
Thanks. The current Bose system has an abundance of midbass. It's just sloppy and poorly tuned. I'm thinking you know what midbasses I'll be running. Should be more than adequate. I'm not a bass head like I used to be. But, do want a well rounded system.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It’s not gonna work well. If you already are running big midbass up front, you can run into staging issues with a set in the rear door. You also won’t be able to real tune a set based on you running parallel with the fronts. I’ve read about rear midbass being done working and they spent a lot
Of time on cross over points and time alignment which you lose running parallel
My concern is with blending them in smoothly. I didn't think staging would be much of an issue since it is still hard to localize midbass. But, I will be crossing them at about 300Hz. Which is borderline. I think folks have talked me into just concentrating on the fronts. I want L-R rear fill. However, I have stock 3-1/2" midranges in the D-pillars that can do that. The rear doors will remain empty.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the front is more than enough if done right, i have had systems in 3 macan turbos, front doors only
Any of those Macan Turbos further North (Ohio and above)? I would love to hear a good system done in a Macan. But, don't want to take a flight from metro Detroit to hear one :).

Ge0
 

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If necessary, it CAN be done effectively with proper time delay and attenuation etc.

I am assuming that you have read MOAMBAT (i.e. the mother of all midbass array threads) ??

Read this post first, then go back to the start of it (it "only" 13 pages long) and get into the whole thing, then come back here with your head spinning and ask more questions--

 

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Discussion Starter #9
If necessary, it CAN be done effectively with proper time delay and attenuation etc.

I am assuming that you have read MOAMBAT (i.e. the mother of all midbass array threads) ??

Read this post first, then go back to the start of it (it "only" 13 pages long) and get into the whole thing, then come back here with your head spinning and ask more questions--

Are you sure you want me to do that LOL!!!

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Trust me...it'll be fun...as long as you like your head spinning !!!
C'ya in a few days!!! LOL
This doesn't have anything to do with Patrick does it?

Ge0
 

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This doesn't have anything to do with Patrick does it?

Ge0
Nope, the thread was started by yet another genius who went by the names of Lycan and/or Glasswolf and probably other aliases that I am not familiar with.

He wrote some of the original material exploring the challenges and solutions to car audio SQ.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nope, the thread was started by yet another genius who went by the names of Lycan and/or Glasswolf and probably other aliases that I am not familiar with.

He wrote some of the original material exploring the challenges and solutions to car audio SQ.
I remember Glasswolf. I'll take a peek before bed tonight. Good material to make you drowsy :)

Ge0
 

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Just to touch on your original question about running dual mid-bass drivers...

You could, if you were running a capable DSP and had another pair of available amplifier channels, do a 2 and a half way setup, meaning both front and rear mid-bass drivers would play equally up to say 100 Hz. From there, you would roll off the rear drivers at 100 Hz and let the front drivers run up to the tweeter crossover point. That way, you would get the additional bass output while not mucking with the midrange and TA issues in the higher frequency ranges.

A lot of tower speakers for home audio use a 2.5-way design. Some will run 2, 3, or 4 identical mid-bass drivers, cross the lower drivers at around 100 Hz or so, while letting the top driver to run up to the tweeter crossover point. It's very common practice as to utilize smaller drivers to maintain a smaller (narrower) front baffle while still reproducing a fair amount of bass extension and output, as well as increased efficiency and power handling in a small footprint enclosure.

These are NOT a 3-way design because ALL of the mid-bass drivers are playing the same frequencies from 100 Hz on down.

Just a thought... ;-)
 

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For all of the "perfect soundstage, everything up front" guys, this is not going to work. I myself am running four 8" mid bass drivers, on two channels, to get to a 2ohm load. Each channel is about 160 RMS... But all four are behind my seats. Crossed over from about 100-400. Rarely do I hear any midrange pulling my attention to the back.... But then I'm not usually listening for that anyway 🙂
If money were no option, I'd have custom figerglass front door panels with six 8" mid bass drivers in each front door 😉 ....and maybe that would be enough to fill in between many thousands of watts of subs, and a bunch of mids / highs.
 

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For all of the "perfect soundstage, everything up front" guys, this is not going to work.

Crossed over from about 100-400.
I disagree. If the rear mid-bass drivers are kept below 100 Hz, it would be no different than having subs in the rear of the car. And with a DSP, if you can easily get the bass from a sub or subs to sound like it's coming from the front stage, then you can certainly do it with a pair of mid-bass drivers in the rear doors. Heck, I'm able to have the stock sub's bass appear in the front stage right now with my stock speakers and the rather basic DSP in my head unit. I can only imagine how much further I could push these stock speakers if I had my Helix installed.

You're running your rear mid-bass drivers from 100 to 400 Hz. That's your problem right there.
 

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I disagree. If the rear mid-bass drivers are kept below 100 Hz, it would be no different than having subs in the rear of the car. And with a DSP, if you can easily get the bass from a sub or subs to sound like it's coming from the front stage, then you can certainly do it with a pair of mid-bass drivers in the rear doors. Heck, I'm able to have the stock sub's bass appear in the front stage right now with my stock speakers and the rather basic DSP in my head unit. I can only imagine how much further I could push these stock speakers if I had my Helix installed.

You're running your rear mid-bass drivers from 100 to 400 Hz. That's your problem right there.
I was saying "above 100 and below 400" in other words, covering from the 100-400 hz range.
 

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Exactly. I know that. That's why I said "That's your problem right there"... You have issues trying to get a proper front stage with those mid-bass drivers running in the rear at those frequencies.
 

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Exactly. I know that. That's why I said "That's your problem right there"... You have issues trying to get a proper front stage with those mid-bass drivers running in the rear at those frequencies.
But as I've said, having a front center stage is very low on my list of importance. I'd like to have custom front door panels, more than anything, just for looks and coolness factor 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Unfortunately I need to keep reading the thread seafish referenced to figure out at what frequency Intra-aural Intesity Difference starts to disappear. I used to know this years ago but have recently filled tha region of my brain with other info like Binge watching Tiger King :). I thought the threshold was about 200Hz. This is too low for my 3-1/2" midranges to take over. I don't have an extra set of channels to try what SQ_Blaze is suggesting.

I'll be using a Helix V Eight so I am limited on channels. I wanted the V Twelve but at nearly 2x the cost of the V Eight I didn't see enough of a cost to benefit advantage.

Ge0
 
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