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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea.

4x150 for tweeter, midrange.
2x150 for midbass.
500x1 for subs.

Actually, my subs only need 70w to get them putting out a good deal. No joke.
 

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why not pick up that DSP6, then you can get regular reference amps and then swap them out when the wind blows in the opposite direction
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
why not pick up that DSP6, then you can get regular reference amps and then swap them out when the wind blows in the opposite direction
cant do 3-way frontstage + sub :)
^ bingo.

And I simply want to cut out the middle man altogether (ie: no external processing).

I've got time. No rush.
 

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ever since i saw milox's install i've noticed an increase in DC1000.4 advocates and users.
gotta love it. although i did get a bit carried away and added a 750.2 to the mix.
:p
 

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Yea.


500x1 for subs.

Actually, my subs only need 70w to get them putting out a good deal. No joke.

Gotta love IB:)

Completed an IB install in my friends Chysler 300C,12" mb quart sub wired for an 8 ohm load. Cut a hole and fabbed up a factory looking grill on the interior rear deck. Deaden the hell out the deck area. Sucker fills up that larger car with good clean bass and drops way low too---On a total of 100 watts:D
His DLS amp is not even breaking a sweat.
 

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Come on, you know you want the DSP6. It will look good when on you. :thumbsup:











Cant blame you, Im going DC amps instead of DSP6 for simplicity sake.
 

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Come on, you know you want the DSP6. It will look good on you. :thumbsup:











Cant blame you, Im going DC amps instead of DSP6 for simplicity sake.
 

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Yea.

4x150 for tweeter, midrange.
2x150 for midbass.
500x1 for subs.

Actually, my subs only need 70w to get them putting out a good deal. No joke.
Figured you'd come around soon. :D
 
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