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Discussion Starter #1
I need the help of DIYers. I am using factory HU and would like to go with passive crossover, and stay around $400 for two way set-up.

JL 300/4

Please make recomendations for the following:
5.25 mid bass
tweeter
Passive Crossover


Thank you.
 

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If you are going to run passive, I highly suggest you stick to a component set that includes the passive crossover, unless you like the idea of driving yourself insane with passive crossover design.

Then again, if you want to design a passive crossover network while taking impedance, phase, frequency smoothing, and on axis versus off axis into consideration, feel free to knock yourself out!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
umm... why dont you want to just get a component set that has all the hard work done for you as far as crossovers go?

My biggest complaint about off the shelf 2 way systems is the lack of mid bass. I was hoping I could purchase a nice mid bass driver and pair it with a set of tweeters and passive crossover.

It sounds like its more complex than just putting it together. :confused:
 

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5.25" is going to be light in the midbass typically...

You have a 4 channel amp, you could get an electronic crossover (unless you amp has it built in) and actively cross whatever mid/tweet you wanted.
 

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The lack of midbass could also come from non-deadened and prepped doors. According to many RTA experiments on here, a deadened door produces a much deeper, richer midbass as well as produces less distortion and resonance (which we knew, it was just nice to see it proven.)

I've recommended the Pioneer TS-C520PRS components to a few 5 1/4" users that want the most for their money, I think they'd probably work for you too. They sell for ~$209 on ebay, shipped.


BTW, I thought the JL 300/4 is an active crossover amp, capable of running up to 5K on the crossover. Why not just use that!?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will be installing Dynamat throughout the car. The Pioneer set up looks pretty good.
I'll do some research on em.

Thanks
 

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Surely.

And double-check that amp, I bet it can go fully active. That would be an easy way to make this work. The crossover of the Pioneer isn't all that hot, so going active with them would be a great benefit.
 

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Surely.

And double-check that amp, I bet it can go fully active. That would be an easy way to make this work. The crossover of the Pioneer isn't all that hot, so going active with them would be a great benefit.
Are you sure? I thought the 300/4 only had double HP/LP filters with an X10 multiplier on the front and rear channels, but lacks bandpass for total control of the midrange upper frequency.

Then again, if the OP's HU is capable of passing a High Pass filtered signal, active could be done with just that amp since the JL has a frequency multiplier.
 

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Its the factory HU, according to the OP.

He's right, you can't pass-band.

A simple active crossover would do this, and be pretty cheap though. Or, you could try the 520's passive, and then use the JL's onboard crossover for the rest (as usual.) IMO, it should still sound pretty good.
 

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Its the factory HU, according to the OP.
Argh, Reading > Me on this one:(


A simple active crossover would do this, and be pretty cheap though. Or, you could try the 520's passive, and then use the JL's onboard crossover for the rest (as usual.) IMO, it should still sound pretty good.
I picked up a Coustic XM6 for $15 from one of my friends and I find it runs circles around some amplifiers with built-in crossovers.
 

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While slightly off topic, I'm wondering if you meant dynamat the brand, or just "dampening." Unless you are buying Dynamat below cost, going with alternatives would be cheaper and produce similar results, up to much better results (RAAMmat and Secondskin off the top of my head.) I only mention this because, as a relatively new poster, I'm not sure if you were aware of the alternatives to spending Dynamat money. Also, consider a barrier foam like luxury liner, rattlepad, ensolite, etc. as your top layer to finish it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
While slightly off topic, I'm wondering if you meant dynamat the brand, or just "dampening." Unless you are buying Dynamat below cost, going with alternatives would be cheaper and produce similar results, up to much better results (RAAMmat and Secondskin off the top of my head.) I only mention this because, as a relatively new poster, I'm not sure if you were aware of the alternatives to spending Dynamat money. Also, consider a barrier foam like luxury liner, rattlepad, ensolite, etc. as your top layer to finish it off.
I have Dynamat left over from my last car. So I'll use what is left then go with second Skin Damplifier and Luxury Liner. I really appreciate all of the info.

So here is the action plan:
1.order a set of Pioneer Premier TS-C520PRS, Coustic XM6 COUSTIC XM6 2,4, OR 6 CHANNEL; 2 OR 3-WAY CROSSOVER | CarAmpAndSpeaker.com and Second Skin products.
2. tear the car apart and sound deaden
3. Wire the car. Amp, speakers etc
4. Ask DIYers for guidance on how to set up amps/crossovers correctly
5. Enjoy the new setup and thank DIYers for all there help :D

Sound good?
 
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