Wiring under the console cleaned up and prepped to go to the next piece of the puzzle, the LCQ-1 in the center console.

Some of you are likely wondering why we had the SSI, as well as the LCQ-1, when the LCQ-1 does summing as well? Thanks to some good intell from our friends at JML Audio, that have done one of these before, we knew that the factory Sony amp had some major issues with oscillating and just generally freaking out with no "load" present. They have been known to be just fine initially, but give problems later. The SSI presents a load to the factory system as well as summing, so we added it to the equation to play it safe.

We missed some pictures between the two pieces, but heres the Audio Control LCQ-1 installed inside the center console. Landen is hands on when it comes to tuning, etc. so we made a removable plexi cover to be able to see where things are set, and tweak as needed.

This is a picture of the same console with the carpet cover over the plexi. You'll also notice the Audio Controls bass knob.

A picture of the PDX-V9, nestled in nicely behind the rear passenger seat

Factory Sony tweeter in the A pillars

Hertz tweeters popped right in with very little effort

We preferred a home run on the wire going into the doors, so we relocated one of the existing pins to a free spot, and made an access hole to run the wires straight through.

Front drivers door with a layer of dynamat on it to cut down on any resonance

Trim ring made for the front doors, no real spacing needed, just adapting the hole size more than anything.

A shot of the speaker installed, after the rest of the ring was wrapped in Dynamat as well. We also used some Dynatape to trim around the plastic door panel cover, mainly just for the cosmetics. (no we didn't dynamat the plastic, lol)

 

Back passenger door, dynamatted and ready to go. Again, dynatape on the plastic, we definitely dynamatted the door skin not the plastic, lol

Hertz speakers in and ready to go

Custom box built for underneath the rear passenger side small seat. It fits one Alpine Shallow style Type R sub in .45 cu ft. He didn't want to do anything super fancy, so his dogs stepping on it wouldn't be the end of the world, so we dressed it with some vinyl side panels with SRT on them for the truck. We also modified the factory bracket, so it would hold the new box firmly in place like it had the original Sony box

Other side of the box with the seat down to show fit

 

Now on to some of the details from integrating into the factory amp signal. This is a signal feed directly from my iphone, with a lossless pink noise track playing in as a reference.

This an RTA response, with the output of the summing device fed directly into the Termlab system at 1/4 volume on the Ford headunit. Not a terribly EQ'd system (more on this later)

This is an RTA response with the volume at 3/4 level. You'll see the response is very close to the 1/4 volume level, so there doesn't look to be a tremendous amount of volume dependent EQ'ing going on.

One thing we did notice when testing signals and using a scope, is that the subwoofer end of things clipped BAD at anything past 1/3 volume on the radio. Needless to say this was NOT good at all. Anything high frequency was unclipped til just a tick or two under full volume, major difference.

We then disconnected the subwoofer output from the factory Sony amp, and the signal was clean as a whistle all the way past 3/4 volume. As it turns out, the signal on the sub outputs was flat out terrible. It didn't just clip a little, it clipped a LOT. Sorry we didn't save pictures of it, but it was a busy day.

Anyway, just using the door speaker and tweeter output to feed our audio into the SSI, we had a full range signal with no need to use the sub channel output at all. So if you're integrating into a Ford Sony system, and you or the installer aren't putting a scope on it, make sure you/them DON'T use the sub output!

Here's the audio RTA after removing the sub output from the equation. Not to bad a curve for a factory system output if you compare it to the plain old pink noise curve we had from before. The bands of the LCQ-1 should be adequate to tweak that out as needed.

 

Awesome install. The raptor is a great truck and I considered getting one before I picked up my jeep. I still may get one in a couple years lol. I would need to have more low end though.

Sent with Tapatalk2 while watching chicks get naked.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the Sony amp tricks. I did an F-150 with the Sony system a few months back, and some of the problems you are mentioning, seemed to be happening to us at the time....we thought it was the Arc XDi805 we installed at the time.

Good to know for next time. Nice job on the install, too.

Jay

 

Very nice work, but for a second there I thought the truck looked like it was parked right in front of our old building that we moved out of this past spring - seriously - same brick, same windows, same fascia...

 

Did you actually use the JL Cleansweep, or just the SSI Summing module? If just the summing module, do you think it would be possible to just use that and send the signal to an active amp i.e. Zapco DC reference? Might be interested in this truck soon.

Thanks.

Fred

 

Super awesome truck.

 

Fred,

I think you could get away with just the summing device, but you would still have some minor eq'ing from the factory radio to contend with. Landen would be the best judge of this, after having it a few weeks and tweaking on it, he could let you know whether the EQ bands on the Audiocontrol were really important or not.

 

Thanks. Just ordered a 2013 Raptor. I already have two DC Reference amps with built-in EQ and Time alignment. I'll just need to pick up the CLSSI module when the truck gets here.

 

Just did one of these yesterday, sooo glad I saw this when you first posted. Everything seemed to work good and it sounded great. Shame there was no EQ (it was all JL stuff the customer brought in with him, except the CLSSI that we had in stock from when we used to be a JL dealer.)

 

Nice install!!! I have a 06 F150 and I'm replacing my door speakers. I want to put some dynamat around the speakers like you did.I was wondering did you pull back the plastic on the door and put the dynamat on then put the plastic over the dynamat or did you just cut out the plastic where you put the dynamat?

 

We pulled the plastic back and Dynamatted the metal and speaker ring. We then put the plastic back down and used dynatape to tape it down to the ring/hole before mounting the speaker in.

 

Looks like a pain in the butt to get those "home-runs" into the doors.

 

Would an Audison Bit 10 do all that the Clean Sweap and LCQ do in this system? I just picked up my raptor with the sony system and looking to do something similar, I was just going to use Audison Voce 6.5's for the front and leave the rear sony speakers for now, along with a Hertz sub.

 

Would an Audison Bit 10 do all that the Clean Sweap and LCQ do in this system?

Yes, and more. The LCQ is a line out converter and equalizer, while Cleansweep handles Summing and De-EQ of the factory HU, the Bit Ten does all of this. The Bit Ten will also add time-alignment, a lot more bands of EQ, and extremely versatile crossover.

 

Double post.

 

Mike, on the SSI device did you have the switch set to "2-way" or "3-way" summing? I have a 2013 F250 with sony nav and same crappy sub.

 

Initially we probably had it set to 3 way, in the end it really only needed the front signals to run everything. Just make sure whatever you hook to those front channels shows the factory amp some sort of "load"

 

I'm using and SSI and cl441 cleansweep. So hopefully i'll be good tapping into only front two tweets and front two mids, not tapping into sub.

Then just hooking into front ch input on XD700/5, set amp for 2CH, and run in tri-amplified.

 

Mike, have you ever messed with the center channel speaker in the Fords with the sony 10 speaker system?

 

No, we sure haven't

 

Thanks for all your help Mike. Any way I could get the stereo schematics for my 2013 F250?

 

We have also attempted the LCQ-1 to Ford Sony F150 install. The digital noise was crazy. In Toyota Tundras, there are loud snaps and channels go out, etc on the stock non-jbl deck as well. However, you should be able to use the JL Audio CL-LSA $13 in front of the LCQ-1 so the factory deck/amp sees a load.

 

I am new to this forum but I am about to install same set-up I have the CL-SSI and the LCQ-1 and notice you guys said not to use the sub signal from amp where do we get it from sorry if its a dumb question I'm just a little confused...

 

I've got a 13 with sony and am about to start a build, I've done a non sony before....to the above poster, wouldn't you just send the FR, FL, RR, RL signals to the SSI, then those same to your LCQ1, and let the LCQ1 do the work for "adding" a sub so to speak?

So anyway to OP - a safe way to go about doing these installs is going from factory amp to JL SSI, then to an LCQ1, then to your amps? Any tips for the molex connectors they look like hell.

 

Nice truck.

Love the box.