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Thunder's 2009 Camry SE build log - from the gound up..

167K views 452 replies 109 participants last post by  Bluenote  
#1 ·
Alright, New England weather has finally calmed down (everyone was getting a free built in pool :)) SO, now comes the install.. So first thing first.. The equipment list.

Components:

Kenwood DNX9140
Hertz MLK165
Hertz HL70
Hertz ML3000 (2nd in very near future)
Audiocontrol Matrix
Audioontrol DQX & DDC (Front end)
ZED Leviathan
ZED Kronos (2nd in very near future as well)

Accessories:
ALL Stinger cables & accessories
Stinger Roadkill Expert, Dynaliner & Dynaplate
1/8 & 1/4 CCF from foamfactory
Front door speaker adpts from How do I install stereo, speakers, subwoofer, amplifier, tweeters ipod in my Tacoma Toyota
DIY interconnects (credit goes to Doitor) Canare Star Quad 8 & 4 channel with Neutrik RCAs
Optima Yellow top, dual posts
Misc accessories from SDS, PE & MarkerTec

SIGNAL PATH:

DNX9140 will cross the Front / Sub channels
Front channel (L&R) -> Matrix -> DQX -> Leviathan -> ML28, HL70 & ML165
SUB channel (L&R) - Matrix (split into channel 2 & 3) -> C3 -> Kronos -> ML3000 (future: C2 -> Kornos -> ML3000)

DEADENING:
Phase 1: Trunk, Front doors (in & out), Rear doors (in & out), rear deck & roof (material dependent)
Phase 2: Floor (from firewall to rear deck) & Carpet pad

Security: Already done (Viper) w/ custom battery & siren modifications

Windows: Way too dark. 19% under limit

I will also be adding a Stinger AC converter (Son's Video game) and will be utilizing the av in /out on the DNX 9140. I will be adding headrest video later in the year. I am not only looking for a good SQL system, but a AV system for trips with the family as well. Nice thing about the DNX9140 is it is zoned. The front can run the music while I can zone the AV outs for the rear and play a DVD for the kids while I am listening to the Ipod and using the GPS for directions.
The 9140 will also be used for T/A and crossing the Front end and Sub (EQ flat for FE and 10 band will be used for SUB)

Front door deadening has already been done, I will post pictures of that shortly (Need to find the card I used) I have been working on the Pods for the pillars and custom cables over the past few weeks (Pics shortly)

My install plans will be suedo-stealth, The trunk will be gutted (in process now) and will be built up with a combo of MDF and Birch. Carpeting and Vinyl from R&T enterprises (Makers of Obcon) Only thing that will be seen in trunk is baskets of ML3000s (why hide a pretty SUB?) otherwise, it will be a carpeted floor and plans will also call for use of spare.
I will also be setting up the install, so that all I have to do in future is drop the second ML3000 and Kronos in trunk and off I go. (I am not a fan of rip and replace :)) rather plan ahead..

Alright, I will start getting some pictures up tomorrow of what I have been working on currently, then step by step after..

I also have the calibrated mic from Dayton and TrueRTA (licensed) to tune system post install.

I will be starting the A-pillar fab shortly. Plan is to have the tweet and mid positioned off axis (Hertz recommended) and I have heard this type of install with a MLK2 (no mids) and it sounded fantastic

Anyways, another goal is to keep the car looking as close to stock as possible (creative A-pillar modeling :)) Rear fill will be removed and holes plugged and covered. AV system will be via wireless headsets.

Working on trunk and Big "6" tomorrow :) Explanations with pictures to follow.

SO, here we go..
 
#4 ·
Alright, some items that have been worked on and finished..

Speaker pods for pillars..

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I am throwing in a HL70 into my MLK165 setup. after many talks with Electromedia, this is a very good alternative to the ribbon. I am looking forward to seeing how this setup sounds..

Now, DIY cables & speaker wires

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#5 ·
I am also going to drop a new fuse/ground panel in the car bypassing all the noise/whine, etc of the electrical system

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Now the trunk.. before and after.. notice on the lid (and soon the side panels the selected areas of dampening placement. rather than covering the whole, I covered the spots that either resonated or had vibration, sound solid as a rock now.

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More to come..
 
#16 ·
Not sure.. I sent Patrick a PM , waiting on response.. from the numbers, the HL70 can operate in a VERY small enclosure. Just how small.. It is either this, which a half sphere does wonders for waves, or model one when they go on the pillars

and if my math is right, it is about .009cf in size..
 
#17 ·
Alright.. ALMOST done with the trunk pre-work..

Ok.. Deadening done... I am not a fan of painting the walls with aluminum.. I think it is a waste.. If you look at this, there are odd ball pieces everywhere. Everywhere there was a resonance or vibration.. Now It is solid. Sounds solid in and out..

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Hmm.. a perfect 90 degree angle.. Got a job for this spot
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Ok.. Repeat after me.. "CCF does not do anything but get rid of rattles and panel vibrations" SO, with that said.. Trunk lid.. and tada, back to stock looking..

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Now, probably wondering Why is there CCF on the floor.. Think of it as a vibration barrier to the build out that will be sitting on top of it.. Notice it is also completely covering that 90 deg wall.. I want the sub to hit hard and not rattle the car. So just like your car rides on shocks so you don't feel the bumps.. Get the picture?

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More to come.. more work tomorrow.. Next steps.. Carpet the plastic panel panel that covers lip area (I am going for a gray/black contrast build, it will look cool) Finish misc CCF spots, add 2nd siren & trunk pin, Start engine bay area..

Sleep time..
 
#18 ·
ok.. more work today..

Carpeted the back panel of the trunk.. Plan is I will be trimming the lip portion off and doing a vinyl wrap.. It will look cool..
Trunk is in waiting state now, moving to front of car.. I will be cutting out the plastic hooks in the corner and replacing with a chrome loop in future

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Engine bay.. fabricated a mount out of starboard for the fuse holders.. Can still remove the factory cover with out any issues.. onto the empty engine bay.. Remove battery and all factory cables to battery..

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Now.. While on a search for a grommet to move wires thru, I noticed this "cutout" right above the e-brake in the cabin. I pulled out the fabric covering it, it was a solid "hole" Must have been intended for something at some point. Also, on the engine bay side, it is right of the master cylinder. Also, removed the cutout of firewall material..
I have a Stinger PG34, which is a 1" watertight grommet for 1/0 cable. It was REAL tight drilling, but I move from a small but up to about 3/8 bit, then the hole saw (1") using a high torque setting on the drill, was able to drill a perfect 1" hole and installed the PG34.. Nice..

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Lastly, got the yellow top in the car and replaced all the factory cables with new stinger cable (4 & 1/0 ga) wrapped in techflex. I also changed the battery type in the camry, from +/- to -/+ config with dual posts. I am running the factory connections off the side posts and the "Big 3" and rear feed off the top. I think it works better this way. More flexable if you ask me..

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Next steps, finish HID light install, finish Big 3, RUn 1/0 power to rear and aux power to new panel on drivers side.
Once power is run to back, I will go back to trunk and start next steps there..
 
#20 ·
#26 ·
Onward, back to the engine bay to finish.. I ran the cable from Alt to battery.. There was not a real good spot to route.. Damn bracket holding the ECU needed some work..

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Some cutting and grinding the edges work and space has been created.. Probably don't need the cable route holder on left, but what the hell..

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Power cable to rear of car, small space in wire wrap for grommet in firewall to tighten down on..

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Alright.. the "Big 6" is done.. I'll be putting up some more pics shortly.. Also, after paging thru the electrical diagrams from Toyota, the FACTORY charging wire to battery is pathetic. 12AWG? seriously? I'll show a picture soon..

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Onto the new fuse panel..
 
#27 ·
A Toyota WTF moment..

So, I was going thru the factory wires and ABOUT to tin the lead on the factory joke of a charge wire to the battery (it is in FACT 12awg, see picture next to 1/0)
So, I figured I would take up some slack and cut it down a bit.

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Now THIS is the part that makes me wonder.. after removing the factory fabric wrap, excess electrical tape, I come upon this heavily heat shrinked area, so I cut the HS off and I was dumb founded. It is ACTUALLY a 5-6awg cable crimped down to a 12awg (about 6 inches long) and to the battery..

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This concludes my Toyota WTF moment..

More pics tomrorow..
 
#28 ·
Brought to you by TOYOTAWTF RADIO!!!

BWAHHAHAHAHA!!! Well considering all the ish that toyota's going through on what appears to be continued flaws, which really translate into corners cut, does this really surprise you? I'm surprised that you didn't have a fire with that kind of application. WOW! Well I'm assuming you're gonna address that right away? I would track it back to the source and replace the whole wire. Acutally I did do that on my civic. WOW, simply WOW!
 
#34 ·
SCOOTER99WTF!

you're out of your element, donny. talking smack about toyota's cut corners and talk up honda.. toyota is miles ahead of all companies in quality. have you ever heard of delorean? gm ford and chrysler tried to do the same to toyota. if you aren't smart enough to put your foot on the brake or put your car in neutral you don't deserve to drive. hondas have had numerous recalls that weren't given anything close to the attention toyota has received. in 06-07 there were issues with the brakes locking up at 60+mph. would you rather have a car that speeds up that can be controlled by a competent individual or a car that locks up with no chance of regaining control?

yes, it's a fusible link. many car manufactures use it. it's a safety precaution.

keep buying into what the government is feeding you. because the news is all true. especially fox news.

i'm sorry op. i had to
 
#29 ·
I believe that 12-ga section has the fusible link in it. That's why it is so small. On a side not it's really amazing how much your Camry engine bay looks like my Scion xB engine bay, down to where everything is mounted and run.
 
#30 ·
Greg,

The Scion and the 4cyl Camry EXACT setup, same engine.. Only thing I did was swap the battery out for opposite +/- positions. Worked better for the fusing of everything..
I did check that 12awg wire, unless the fuse is buried in the wire, it was just a straight wire. I know in the engine bay JB that the wire to battery is fused at 75 amps.
Does not really matter anyways as I now have the Alt to battery on 1/0..