Thunder's 2009 Camry SE build log - from the gound up..

[Thunderplains]

Alright, New England weather has finally calmed down (everyone was getting a free built in pool ) SO, now comes the install.. So first thing first.. The equipment list.

Components:

Kenwood DNX9140
Hertz MLK165
Hertz HL70
Hertz ML3000 (2nd in very near future)
Audiocontrol Matrix
Audioontrol DQX & DDC (Front end)
ZED Leviathan
ZED Kronos (2nd in very near future as well)

Accessories:
ALL Stinger cables & accessories
Stinger roadkill Expert, Dynaliner & Dynaplate
1/8 & 1/4 CCF from foamfactory
Front door speaker adpts from How do I install stereo, speakers, subwoofer, amplifier, tweeters ipod in my Tacoma Toyota
DIY interconnects (credit goes to Doitor) Canare Star Quad 8 & 4 channel with Neutrik RCAs
Optima Yellow top, dual posts
Misc accessories from SDS, PE & MarkerTec

SIGNAL PATH:

DNX9140 will cross the Front / sub channels
Front channel (L&R) -> Matrix -> DQX -> Leviathan -> ML28, HL70 & ML165
SUB channel (L&R) - Matrix (split into channel 2 & 3) -> C3 -> Kronos -> ML3000 (future: C2 -> Kornos -> ML3000)

DEADENING:
Phase 1: Trunk, Front doors (in & out), Rear doors (in & out), rear deck & roof (material dependent)
Phase 2: Floor (from firewall to rear deck) & Carpet pad

Security: Already done (Viper) w/ custom battery & siren modifications

Windows: Way too dark. 19% under limit

I will also be adding a Stinger AC converter (Son's Video game) and will be utilizing the av in /out on the DNX 9140. I will be adding headrest video later in the year. I am not only looking for a good SQL system, but a AV system for trips with the family as well. Nice thing about the DNX9140 is it is zoned. The front can run the music while I can zone the AV outs for the rear and play a DVD for the kids while I am listening to the Ipod and using the GPS for directions.
The 9140 will also be used for T/A and crossing the Front end and sub (EQ flat for FE and 10 band will be used for SUB)

Front door deadening has already been done, I will post pictures of that shortly (Need to find the card I used) I have been working on the Pods for the pillars and custom cables over the past few weeks (Pics shortly)

My install plans will be suedo-stealth, The trunk will be gutted (in process now) and will be built up with a combo of MDF and Birch. Carpeting and Vinyl from R&T enterprises (Makers of Obcon) Only thing that will be seen in trunk is baskets of ML3000s (why hide a pretty SUB?) otherwise, it will be a carpeted floor and plans will also call for use of spare.
I will also be setting up the install, so that all I have to do in future is drop the second ML3000 and Kronos in trunk and off I go. (I am not a fan of rip and replace ) rather plan ahead..

Alright, I will start getting some pictures up tomorrow of what I have been working on currently, then step by step after..

I also have the calibrated mic from Dayton and TrueRTA (licensed) to tune system post install.

I will be starting the A-pillar fab shortly. Plan is to have the tweet and mid positioned off axis (Hertz recommended) and I have heard this type of install with a MLK2 (no mids) and it sounded fantastic

Anyways, another goal is to keep the car looking as close to stock as possible (creative A-pillar modeling ) Rear fill will be removed and holes plugged and covered. AV system will be via wireless headsets.

Working on trunk and Big "6" tomorrow Explanations with pictures to follow.

SO, here we go..

[strong*I*bumpin]

As a 6th generation Camry owner I look forward to seeing this build ,good luck.

[ReloadedSS]

Another 6th generation Camry owner. Looking forward to the install.

[Thunderplains]

Alright, some items that have been worked on and finished..

Speaker pods for pillars..






I am throwing in a HL70 into my MLK165 setup. after many talks with Electromedia, this is a very good alternative to the ribbon. I am looking forward to seeing how this setup sounds..

Now, DIY cables & speaker wires

[Thunderplains]

I am also going to drop a new fuse/ground panel in the car bypassing all the noise/whine, etc of the electrical system




Now the trunk.. before and after.. notice on the lid (and soon the side panels the selected areas of dampening placement. rather than covering the whole, I covered the spots that either resonated or had vibration, sound solid as a rock now.










More to come..

[IBcivic]

i like where this is going ...suscribed

[lashlee]

I'm excited to see how this turns out. I just put the HSK163's in the truck. I think they sound awesome for the price!!! The 70 is the coolest lil' guy!!!

[Austin]

subscribed for sure.

[trevordj]

Originally Posted by amitaF

i like where this is going ...suscribed

x2 (extra words so my post isn't too short)

[scooter99]

yea I'm in!!

[Thunderplains]

Alright.. More pictures tonight.. Tomorrow starting work under the hood

Also, based on some ideas Mr Bateman had, I will be doing a sealed midrange on the pillar.. more to come on that shortly.. Will be constructing sub box this weekend..

[Kellyo77]

Neato. I'ma be watchin' dis an shit an stuff.

[Jefferson]

This looks interesting. I like where your headed(and the color of your car). I'm going to be keeping an eye on this thread.
Good luck!

[Thunderplains]

Ok.. Something I learned from Patrick, I am making the pods a little bigger to accomidate, but I think you get the idea..

[IBcivic]

i have one question> is there enough volume for the driver to perform efficiently in that 1/2 sphere?

[Thunderplains]

Originally Posted by amitaF

i have one question> is there enough volume for the driver to perform efficiently in that 1/2 sphere?

Not sure.. I sent Patrick a PM , waiting on response.. from the numbers, the HL70 can operate in a VERY small enclosure. Just how small.. It is either this, which a half sphere does wonders for waves, or model one when they go on the pillars

and if my math is right, it is about .009cf in size..

[Thunderplains]

Alright.. ALMOST done with the trunk pre-work..

Ok.. deadening done... I am not a fan of painting the walls with aluminum.. I think it is a waste.. If you look at this, there are odd ball pieces everywhere. Everywhere there was a resonance or vibration.. Now It is solid. Sounds solid in and out..





Hmm.. a perfect 90 degree angle.. Got a job for this spot



Ok.. Repeat after me.. "CCF does not do anything but get rid of rattles and panel vibrations" SO, with that said.. Trunk lid.. and tada, back to stock looking..




Now, probably wondering Why is there CCF on the floor.. Think of it as a vibration barrier to the build out that will be sitting on top of it.. Notice it is also completely covering that 90 deg wall.. I want the sub to hit hard and not rattle the car. So just like your car rides on shocks so you don't feel the bumps.. Get the picture?



More to come.. more work tomorrow.. Next steps.. Carpet the plastic panel panel that covers lip area (I am going for a gray/black contrast build, it will look cool) Finish misc CCF spots, add 2nd siren & trunk pin, Start engine bay area..

Sleep time..

[Thunderplains]

ok.. more work today..

Carpeted the back panel of the trunk.. Plan is I will be trimming the lip portion off and doing a vinyl wrap.. It will look cool..
Trunk is in waiting state now, moving to front of car.. I will be cutting out the plastic hooks in the corner and replacing with a chrome loop in future




Engine bay.. fabricated a mount out of starboard for the fuse holders.. Can still remove the factory cover with out any issues.. onto the empty engine bay.. Remove battery and all factory cables to battery..




Now.. While on a search for a grommet to move wires thru, I noticed this "cutout" right above the e-brake in the cabin. I pulled out the fabric covering it, it was a solid "hole" Must have been intended for something at some point. Also, on the engine bay side, it is right of the master cylinder. Also, removed the cutout of firewall material..
I have a Stinger PG34, which is a 1" watertight grommet for 1/0 cable. It was REAL tight drilling, but I move from a small but up to about 3/8 bit, then the hole saw (1") using a high torque setting on the drill, was able to drill a perfect 1" hole and installed the PG34.. Nice..






Lastly, got the yellow top in the car and replaced all the factory cables with new stinger cable (4 & 1/0 ga) wrapped in techflex. I also changed the battery type in the camry, from +/- to -/+ config with dual posts. I am running the factory connections off the side posts and the "Big 3" and rear feed off the top. I think it works better this way. More flexable if you ask me..




Next steps, finish HID light install, finish Big 3, RUn 1/0 power to rear and aux power to new panel on drivers side.
Once power is run to back, I will go back to trunk and start next steps there..

[Greg S]

Nice and clean. BTW the cutout is the clutch plate. I'm guessing you have an automatic? Always a great place to drill through.

[Austin]

Originally Posted by Thunderplains

I need to do this wire on my car haha. All my wires are upgraded except this one. Although it isn't necessary it will make it feel "complete"

[Thunderplains]

Originally Posted by Greg S

Nice and clean. BTW the cutout is the clutch plate. I'm guessing you have an automatic? Always a great place to drill through.

Ahhhh makes sense.. Good place to drill, pain in the #!$ to get to.. but it worked out well.. also looks like you can go about 2 inches below that in the firewall to drill out the grommet. It is a good area in the Camry if you ask me..

[Thunderplains]

Originally Posted by Thunderplains

Ok.. I was asked, so quick explanation.. The reason for the odd cut out and place of the fuse holder/breaker is that when the hood closes, the hydraulics for the hood line up perfectly with the cut out.. Also, I wanted the fuse holder and breaker accessible, not in some hard to reach place..

[strong*I*bumpin]

Thats where my fuse sits also,keep up the good work.

[Greg S]

I hadn't thought to use starboard for the fuse mount. Think I might have to use your idea and get some instead of making one out of steel like I had planned.

[Thunderplains]

Originally Posted by Greg S

I hadn't thought to use starboard for the fuse mount. Think I might have to use your idea and get some instead of making one out of steel like I had planned.

Great stuff, resistant to everything under the sun and a VERY high temp rating..
Also makes for easy fabrication. I have fabricated a board for the Matrix to sit on where the JBL amp sits under the seat as well.