10 more pictures. More tomorrow.

 

I used some spacers from soundsgoodstereo. Perfect fit, and created to obstruction when replacing the kick panel trim pieces.

Inspired by a Mark Rober video I saw several years ago, a side project for this build was an external speaker controlled by dash buttons. Just for fun...

This part is comprised of:

• Def Tech AW5500 mounted below the engine bay (above the front bash plate)
• Adafruit Audio FX Mini Sound Board
• Buttons
• 2x60w JBL amp (bridged)
• A few ethernet keystone jacks so I could connect the fx board via ethernet to the buttons.
• An inline volume control

The board is pretty simple. Connect any numbered pin to ground and the board plays the associated audio file. The buttons share one side to the same ground. The other side to an individual pin. Seven was more than I thought I'd end up with. The board and volume control are below my steering column, so I can change sounds easily and adjust the level on the fly.

One of the more challenging aspects of the build was getting the tweets and mids to fit where the stock system has a small coax. Nick at Stereo Integrity (@Electrodynamic ) was a huge help... he was able to have the drivers machined per drawings to nest together and work within the constraints of Mesh Man, who was fabricating the acrylic sheets that would sandwich my stock grilles.

Continued...

 

To fill in the gaps between the new mounting surface, I used an epoxy type clay. It was fine... I'm not very good with fiberglass and I thought this would be easier. The results are acceptable. They don't stand out from the driver or passenger seats. I do think I could improve it if I were to do it again, but this isn't a show car.

 

Off to a great start, keep up the posting of pictures

 

This is next level. Great work.

 

Took off for a road trip with the family in June. Iowa to SoCal with little stops in NM and AZ to visit some friends. This is what the trunk looked like then.

A bit of a mess, but it got the job done. Temporary connections and extra wire lengths. I didn't want to reattach the rear panel until I had the subwoofer sorted out. Had been waiting for the JL Stealthbox to finally be released.

During that trip, I was able to connect with Fraser from @mobridge . Met him at his place and he generously spent a number of hours helping me get the tune dialed in. I had previously figured out the time alignment, but my skills with REW weren't up to par. I had used it a lot for sweeps with home audio, but hadn't ever done the pink noise method. He also had a UMA-4 vs my single point Umik. The results were incredible. And he gave me a mounting plate to help me clean up the install... which also works with the Stealthbox, which I have now...

This is how it looks now. Wires trimmed to final lengths, soldered etc.

Here's the B&O sub vs the Stealthbox.

 

Man.that is some serious work and it does look great, I'd love to hear it next time you are in So. Cal....

(keep the pic's coming)...!

 

The M3 carbon spec drawing says just over 2” tall but that picture makes them look bigger than that.

Anyone confirm?
Just curious how much space I’d need.

 

I'd like to verify for you, but I know my metal clip on plastic fixtures have a limited number of cycles before failure.

Pinging @Electrodynamic in case he can confirm.

I will definitely make a mental note to confirm if I pull one of the assemblies off. I see how you'd get the impression from my pics, but it's hard to say for sure without measuring.

The M3 carbon spec drawing says just over 2” tall but that picture makes them look bigger than that.

Anyone confirm?
Just curious how much space I’d need.

 

I'd like to verify for you, but I know my metal clip on plastic fixtures have a limited number of cycles before failure.

Pinging @Electrodynamic in case he can confirm.

I will definitely make a mental note to confirm if I pull one of the assemblies off. I see how you'd get the impression from my pics, but it's hard to say for sure without measuring.

understandable.

I have a 1 7/8” deep speaker in my dash now. I could definitely squeeze a little over 2” if needed but much more and I’m cutting into my heat duct or having to figure out how to fabricate a new grill cover piece.

 

I was impressed by Meshman's ingenuity, even though there was a bit more user-side head-scratching on the tail end. I'm sure there's a way to absorb some extra driver depth.

I was lucky in that all of my hacking away at the dash was through unimportant plastic bits. If there were HVAC ducts in the way, I would have been on high alert and possibly dissuaded.

Anything is possible though.

understandable.

I have a 1 7/8” deep speaker in my dash now. I could definitely squeeze a little over 2” if needed but much more and I’m cutting into my heat duct or having to figure out how to fabricate a new grill cover piece.

 

this is next level, i wish i had the patience and dedication. well done

 

amazing so far cant wait to see it progress further

 

After spending some time with the Stealthbox, I decided it wasn't going to cut it. I am keeping it in place, but it will be sitting idle unless we are roadtripping or camping and need all of the trunk space.

One sub in the trunk for most of the year. I chose a Hertz MP 300. It's a dual 4ohm 12". I heard this same sub powered by the Mobridge amp in Fraser's car this summer. I was very impressed.

This will be connected via a Neutrik Speakon connector. Connects securely and disconnects easily. I will have another mounting plate on the rear interior panel that is wired to the Stealthbox. When I need to switch subs, I just move the cable and apply the appropriate DSP tune from the head unit. One tune for the Stealthbox and three I can use with the Hertz sub (for various levels of sub output). Between the two subs, the EQ filters are a little different, the delays are slightly different, and I have some limiting on the sub channel for the JL.

The goal was to maximize enclosure volume (a touch over 1 cubic foot), while minimizing the loss of cargo space. The raised bump behind the rear seats meant an off the shelf slanted box wasn't going to work. Here's what I came up with:

The triangular space behind the sub was just enough for a right angle speakon connector (after recessing the mounting place a bit). I changed the H and W ratio a bit after taking the screenshot above. The final product is a little narrower and taller.

I did not get the angle right on the first try for the upper rear section, so I had to make a change on the fly.

I used 10-32 bolts with threaded inserts recessed into the double baffle. MDF is not a great medium for screws, especially if you have to take them out more than once or twice.

I used wood glue (with brad nails and clamping) for everything except the baffle. I used PL Premium for the final piece. Great stuff, long working time, expands a bit to fill gaps, and machines or scrapes away pretty easily. Just don't get it on yourself... takes ages to get off your skin.

The shape of the box made the final clamping setup a challenge, so a little jig was necessary.

I've never carpeted a sub enclosure before. I think it turned out pretty nice. My wife helped a lot and we watched some youtube videos to get some tips. Parts express for the carpet, 3M Super 77 for the adhesive.

Continued below...

 

Is there any value to having quick disconnects on your amp as well as sub?

 

Here's the Speakon connector. It twist-locks into place and exist the tunnel near the amp.

Overall impressions: It is exactly what I was hoping it would be. It sounds as impressive as it models in simulation vs the JL. About 9db in the region that matters. This is with 500w to the Hertz and 400w to the JL.

It now sounds the way I was hoping it would when I started this project. I always knew the sub was going to be the weak spot. I'm glad I didn't settle. And it'll still sounds pretty damn good when the big sub is removed. 10/10 would repeat.

Few last tidying details to finish before I call this project 100% complete. Should be wrapped by the end of the weekend.

 

Glad to see someone else modifying their Bronco. My wife bought a 2023 model and I have been messing with it since day one. Since she bought a base model, so we've had fun changing plenty of things. Aftermarket wheels and tires, running boards, remote start/security, rear sensing system, and through view camera system since the top blocks almost the entire mirror view when it's down.
Once I complete the audio setup, I may/will probably start a thread.

One thing I noticed in your photos and wanted to point out/provide a helpful tip on. I have a bunch of the Jorgensen cabinet master clamps as well, and the wooden handles on them like all their f-clamps don't provide enough grip (without getting blisters). I wrapped all of my wooden handle clamps with hockey tape and they are so much easier to tighten/snug up now.
This is a quick video by Rob Cosman about how to wrap the handles Hockey Tape Handles

 

This is a brilliant tip. Thank you for chiming in. I love that style of clamp, but I have definitely been in situations where the leverage of the grab and twist seems less than ideal. I will definitely give this a go.

I've got a few final pics to share. Rear panel is back in, and all of the final wiring is complete.

Here's the "normal" state. Amp is connected to the Hertz 12"

Here is how it connects when I remove the Hertz and connect the Stealthbox (separate DSP tune accessible from the head unit).

And lastly a panel-mount USB-C to USB-A, which is connected to the amp behind the panel for future firmware updates or DSP adjustments.

One thing I noticed in your photos and wanted to point out/provide a helpful tip on. I have a bunch of the Jorgensen cabinet master clamps as well, and the wooden handles on them like all their f-clamps don't provide enough grip (without getting blisters). I wrapped all of my wooden handle clamps with hockey tape and they are so much easier to tighten/snug up now.
This is a quick video by Rob Cosman about how to wrap the handles Hockey Tape Handles

 

This is a brilliant tip. Thank you for chiming in. I love that style of clamp, but I have definitely been in situations where the leverage of the grab and twist seems less than ideal. I will definitely give this a go.

I've got a few final pics to share. Rear panel is back in, and all of the final wiring is complete.

Here's the "normal" state. Amp is connected to the Hertz 12"

View attachment 402342
View attachment 402340

Here is how it connects when I remove the Hertz and connect the Stealthbox (separate DSP tune accessible from the head unit).

View attachment 402339

And lastly a panel-mount USB-C to USB-A, which is connected to the amp behind the panel for future firmware updates or DSP adjustments.

View attachment 402341

Excellent work! I upgraded my B&O to a Kicker Key/Hertz/Kicker 12" system and now I am looking to upgrade to a system very similar to yours. I have the same SI tweeters and mids and I'm going to attempt to go with TM8's for the midbass. I didn't think the M25 + M3 would fit in the dash...Looks like a lot of work get them in but worth it.
I'm probably going to go with the Gearshade stealth sub with Kicker L7T 8" to save $$$ compared to the JL Stealth and possibly a SI SQL 10" sub in a sealed box.
Thanks for all the ideas!

 

Bro this is amazing

 

Bumping an older thread but curious what crossover points you used on mids and subwoofer. I’m finding the location of the mids is causing a massive spike around 200hz and a sharp drop after around 100hz

 

Saving this post for inspiration. Sick job on the sub switching. Never would've ever thought to do that. Sweet build all around.