Use the L6 for mid bass and get a mid range like you said.

 

Thanks for the reply!

The reason I am looking into a dedicated midbass is because I was told the L6 lacked in the midbass department.....true or purely install dependent? Figured the Peerless or the like would serve better for dedicated midbass duties?

Thanks for your thoughts and help!

 

It will be fine. Even more so if that's all it has to do.

 

One more question about mid/tweeter placement.....

I am thinking the easiest thing for me to do is mount them in "pods" on the a-pillars so as to avoid fiberglass work since I don't have any experience in that area. Would it be acceptable to have the mids and tweeters so close together? Thinking the mids would be closer to where the dash meets the windshield and the tweeters would be just above on the a-pillar. Will this be ok? I have seen most installs with the mid in the dash and tweeter in the a-pillar so wasn't sure....

Thanks!

 

I've used JL 6w3's as under-seat midbass...(2) each in .14 cubes sealed with about 250 watts each....crossed 45hz-150hz @24db.

I really liked it...may even do it in my new build.

This sort of set up is really handy when using larger or lower tuned subwoofer systems where you would cross those very low...50hz-60hz...and need something to pick up the slack above that.

 

Only 2 octaves. That could have been done with a sub or mid bass/range

 

I can see it more with stuff like the W3. They are not low end hammers to begin with.
The issue comes from getting that good curve when you have to much bass.

 

placing the mid and tweeter close together is about the best idea in the world, so go for it!

 

I'm jealous of guys that seemingly have no problem with a traditional sub-to-mid scenario. MANY of us either (a) can't get the necissary volume from our dedicated mids and/or (b) nave nodal issues in the midbass region that require unique placement that might not work well with speakers playing as mids.

Using a small sub/dedicated midbass driver to cover 60-150ishhz is totally reasonable in my opinion, but it's not going to work well at all if you just put the speakers in an undertreated door. It will sound like crap and rattle. Kicks that are sealed and vented to the outside would be better. Underseat or behind-the-seat dedicated enclosures works really well as long as you aren't trying to play much above 150hz.

Those peerless SLS will work great especially if you wanted to go small-ish sealed, and should offer much higher extension than the kicker for a smooth transition to the midrange.

 

Thanks for the comments guys I really appreciate it.

I am leaning towards trying to trade my L6 for L3 or L4 and grabbing a set of Peerless SLS 8" to put in treated doors. I think everyone agrees with this scenario correct, as long as the doors are treated?

My main reason for asking about the 6.5 Kickers is because I can get a really, really good deal on them so I was curious how they would do and I would not have to modify the doors to fit them I don't think.

Thanks again for the help! If you know of anyone looking to trade L3 or L4 for L6 let me know!

 

The kickers are not designed for what you are wanting them to do.