Take look at the alpine type r 8" and the dayton ho 10".

 

The Power Acoustik Mofo 12" is a definite powerhouse especially for the money. It can be had for about $125.

For very good SQ the Infinity 120.9W has very good sound quality.

The best recommendation I can make is definitely the JBL P1224 but they're are pretty rare but I did get mine for $130 on closeout. Definitely the best bang for the buck if you can find them cheap. But the GTO1214D is probably equal in performance to the Infinity 120.9W and can be had for $120.

 

The Alpine and the Dayton will suffer from low sensitivity. A powerful amp will be necessary for either of those. With lower power, like 300-400 watts, JBL GTO series are cheap and just great subwoofers with good sensitivity specs. If my JBL Power sub ever dies, I plan to run a pair of GTO 12s in a low tuned ported box.

 

Idk how much I believe sensitivity specs any more. I did a test between a 91db infinity(which is basically jbl) and an 85db dayton(both 10's). Watt for watt, couldn't tell the difference. I could however tell a difference when the dayton destroyed the infinity in max spl. :surprised:

Here's why: The 85db rating of the dayton is the 8 ohm rating. The 91db rating of the infinity is the 2 ohm rating. Subtract 3db from the infinity to get the 4ohm rating (88db) Add 3db to the dayton to get the 4 ohm rating (88db)

Both subs have equal sensitivity. It's just the difference in how manufacturers rate speakers.

 

this, i used one until recently. sounds quite good.
JBL GTO1514 15" Die-Cast Subwoofer with Single-ohm Voice Coil | eBay

 

I third JBL's. Cannot go wrong with high efficiency moderate (for the price) excursion subs. They fall a little flat in low end reproduction due to the law I am forgetting to mention (efficiency vs response) however they are very good subs for the money.

 

You may be thinking of Hoffman's Iron Law (sp?). I do have to respectfully disagree with the suggestion that JBL subs lack in the low end. The Power series is the only series I've heard in person (I own a P1224). It absolutely punishes the lows like I've never heard from any other subwoofer. We're talking ZERO in car roll off down to below 20 hz in a big ported box tuned to 25 hz.

I've had a few subs, but none compare to the JBL in coming close to breaking Hoffman's Iron Law. Well, it is in a big box @ 2.5 net cubes, but still..

 

Agreed. Jbl makes some of the best bang for buck SQL subs.

Sent from BFI

 

A set of GTO804's can be had cheap via amazon and would sound pretty good tuned low..... i put a piar in my truck under the back seat on 300 watts sealed... pretty good response for 8's// but lacking in the low end... Porting would fix that though..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FHAXPA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

a pair can be had <100. Three would be better @1.38 ohms or so... on a cheap audipipe 1000 watter.

 

800 watts and wont break Xmax.... thats with a highpass @ 30HZ

Almost matches ouput of two JBL GTO1514D's in my infinite baffle install.

 

2 cubes for 2 8's, though?

 

How do you plan to fit a 12" or 15" in a single cab? (Depth wise)

JBL GTO 8's get my vote as well. Get at least 2 if you decide on 8's. They can have some good low end depending on how you eq them. Or, like someone said, port them.

 

RE SRX is pretty good for the price.
Alpine Type R8 for ported box.
Alpine SWS-15D or SWS-10D in a sealed box.
If you can find Infinity 120.9w for the budget, that's also pretty good.

 

How much space and power do you have to work with? That should be the starting point.

Don't listen to anyone about anything until you provide the above information. You should never purchase a subwoofer until you have modeled that woofer with what you have to work with. I can take a $80 woofer in the correct enclosure and make it sound better than a $800 woofer in the wrong enclosure.

 

Behind the seat of a standard cab. Bout 3 cu ft max, if he wants to take the whole space and not leave room for storage. Mounting depth is the biggest issue in this case.

 

82.5 db is more than likely the 8ohm rating, with both 4ohm coils in series.

You got it all backwards. Why do you find it hard to accept that 82.5dB is "unlikely" sensitivity with voice coils wired in parallel? It's just a very low sensitivity subwoofer, with 10 inch cone. In fact, wiring the voice coils in parallel is consistent with the 1.7ohm resistance listed in parts express specs. What's unlikely is to get 1.7ohm resistance if they did measure the parameters with the voice coils wired in series as you suggest.

I have entered the parameters of the DVC Dayton HO12 in WinISD and played with it in the SPL graph section. A typical 12 inch subwoofer (say Alpine Type-R 2ohm DVC wired in series) needs about 100watts to reach 103dB output (just a random number I picked) in an optimal sealed box. WinISD predicts that Dayton HO12 DVC needs 240-250watts. WinISD also predicts it has 83.19dB sensitivity, which is pretty much consistent with 83.2dB given by parts express.

 

Calm down, I just checked that particular sub and you are right. It's just a very oddly insensitive driver.

 

I have a jbl bp1200.1 (1200 watts at 1 or 2 ohms) i can use if I have to, so sensitivity isn't necessarily a deal breaker. And it's going in the floor space between the driver and passenger sides of my 94 full size blazer. There's about 1-1.5 cu ft there(prob not enough for a 15), and i want to see how it will sound with the sub upfront instead of all the way in the rear. Two 8's, a 10, or 12 is what will probably work best. Sorry for not being more specific in my original post

 

dayton has a new 8" out too.. looks to be a BAMF

 

Did you see their more BAMF sub? Got my new catalog today, looks neet, I need to model it though.

 

that's the one

 

Well after all of the enlightening arguments ...

I still stand by my recommendations for two reasons. First I read your post and understood that you are intending to mount the sub in front of the seats, implying the need for a sub that requires a very small enclosure and shallow depth. And second, I have real world experience with the subs I recommended. By the way, you have plenty of power with that jbl amp.

 

Fwiw, JBL rates their subs @ 2.83 V vs 1W/1M. To roughly convert that, I just start at 8 ohms, and subtract 3 dbs every time the impedance is halved until you arrive at the target impedance. For example, say a sub is rated 93 dbs @ 2.83 V, and it's a dual 4 ohm sub you plan to run in parallel to create a 2 ohm load at the amp. 93 dbs @ 8 ohms (2.83 V) = 90 dbs @ 4 ohms = 87 dbs @ 2 ohms. So, you would plug the 87 dbs into WinISD or whatever and that will get you in the neighborhood.

 

Definitely DD 500 series. A single 8" or 10" would probably be perfect for what you're wanting. Even if you're very limited on space, a 508b ($89) would work well in a .5 cu. ft. sealed enclosure...but if you have the space, go ported.

 

I would look into infinity reference series their cheap and do give u some quality bass. the 8 inch sub is $50 bucks on ebay the 12 is $57

 

What/who is DD?

Ok so I have a few options to research
Gto 8 or 10, infinity r 8 or 10, dayton ho 10 all seem to be pretty popular suggestions that I will look intO. Thanks for all the input!

 

Digital Designs

 

I have just used a couple of Morel primos not real low budget but lower to mid priced. Great sq and output for the money. Very efficient.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

 

I have been throoughly impressed with the Polm MM1240. Especially for the price.

 

I just bought some mb-Quart 12's for $29.00 a piece. Going to see how they sound tonight. Probably need some break in. These are for my teenagers first system.

 

Are those the ones on sale at sonicelectronix?

 

BTW, if your still interested in the JBL GTO1214D its on sale at sonic electronics. JBL GTO1214D (GTO-1214D) 12" Dual 4 ohm Grand Touring Subwoofer for $75