I am getting a F30 tomorrow but with the base audio system - I have some equipment already so I am also thinking of upgrading the system - I looked at the Audison.. but 35watts is a little weak for me... I have Brax amps so I have like 280rms per channel available - I am going to run the Helix DSP Pro with the OEM interface cables to connect into the OEM HU..




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Yeah, i understand about the Prima being weak. But i want one with built in DSP and need at least 6 channels. I also understand that i need a balanced input AMP - so my options are limited.

Has anyone used the Eton Stage 6 DSP amp. does anyone know if it accepts balanced inputs?

 

You could try the Helix P6 DSP MKii 6x120 with DSP


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Does it accept balanced RCA inputs though?

 

The problem you have is that your car has the hifi system which is difficult to upgrade... I don't even think the Audison will be compatible with your system - you must check that out - you may need to get a mobridge DAC to interface with it...

This is why I only buy base audio systems with my bmws - unless it has the B&O system


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my car is actually the easiest to upgrade of all the BMW audio configurations
Base - you need to open up dash
HK - difficult as TOSH linked

HIFI 676 - is easiest as you just replace the OEM AMP in boot to an aftermarket one.

 

plus do you recommend going fully active with tweeters and mids?

 

I would do the 4" and tweeter with passive and run those under seat subs so you can use 4 channels and use the other 2 channels for some rear speakers - ditch the center channel as most processors don't have center channel processing so it won't work...

I believe the Focal setup is nice maybe try the 4" splits with Focal 8" subs as midbass drivers under the seat


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if i go fully active i would need 8 channels lol

 

Helix makes the 8 channel DSP amp then - look at that


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is fully active worth it?

would 75 watts RMS to the tweeters be too much??

 

is fully active worth it?



would 75 watts RMS to the tweeters be too much??

Depends - how good can you tune.. otherwise a good passive system can sound 95% as good as a active system


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Ok, i have decided ( i think) to a go for Prima 8.9 with the following set up

bridge ch 1 to 4 to 2 * 130 watts RMS to power front OEM or ETON speakers at 4 ohms
channel 5 and 6 to power OEM rears at 4 ohms

Here is the issue. I want to keep my underseat subs. The OEM underseat sub/woofers are only 2 ohms. Do you know if it is possible to mix and mach ohms. so basically channel 7 and 8 will be using 2 ohms - increasing RMS to 2 by 65 (from 2 by 35)


question: can i run 6 channels on 4 ohms and 2 channels on 2 ohms?

and why are there two sets of output power. which one would i be running??

OUTPUT POWER (RMS) @ 12.0 - 14.4 VDC, 1% THD:
• 8 Ch @ 4Ohms: 35 W x 8
• 8 Ch @ 2Ohms: 65 W x 8
• 4 Ch - (Bridge 1/2; 3/4; 5/6; 7/8) @ 4Ohms: 130 W x 4
OUTPUT POWER (RMS) @ 14.4 VDC, 10% THD:
• 8 Ch @ 4Ohms: 45 W x 8
• 8 Ch @ 2Ohms: 85 W x 8
• 4 Ch - (Bridge 1/2; 3/4; 5/6; 7/8) @ 4Ohms: 170 W x 4

 

I've got my car booked in for exactly the same thing in a couple of weeks.

Audison 8.9bit bridged into 4 channels. 2 running Rainbow 4" Mid and tweeter passive fronts and two running the underseat OEM woofers.

If that isn't enough then I'll swap the underseat woofers out before thinking about a sub. As someone else said above running a sub can be difficult as effectively the cabin is sealed from the boot.

 

I was actually contemplating using a AE 10" IB sub and just cutting a mounting hole on the parcel shelf and then modifying the parcel board

Dunno i need to get the car in and see what sort of depth I have under the rear parcel shelf as if I do do that sort of install I don't want the rear of the sub to hang too much under the rear shelf...


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