Does your crossover accept high level inputs? If it does not, speaker wire inputs will more than likely damage the unit without a high level to rca converter. If it does accept high level inputs, there may be a plug that the solder your speaker wires to then plug into the crossover. if it doesn have the plug and accepts the high level input through the rca inputs, you can buy some cheap rca cables, cut the ends off, and solder the ends onto the speaker wire, then plug it in through that.

Be mindful the if the headunit has rca outs you should really use those instead as the SQ will be much better if it doesn't run through the headunit amp. If by all means you have to connect it this way, make sure your unit accepts high level inputs, or get a high level to rca converter.

 

The crossover has two bare-ended wires coming out of it (pos/neg) that connect to the stereo/amp/speaker wire. They are not RCA, nor is there an RCA input on it.
Then there are the other 4 wires (2xPos/2xNeg) that connect to the speaker.

 

where in VA are you? If you are close enough to me, I might be able to give some "eyes on" assistance. If not, maybe this can help...

before trying to answer your question, Im a bit confused as to exactly what your situation is. Are you replacing factory speakers with an aftermarket component set?

 

I am attempting to replace the stock speakers with Polk mm series. They are coax and come with a crossover box
The four wires coming out the right side (2xPos and 2xNeg) connect to the speaker. The 2 wires coming out the left side have a bare wire end (like standard speaker wire)

 

The + and - wires that formerly went to your OEM speakers simply connect to the respective + and - input wires on the crossover. Doesn't matter if from an amp or head unit, the XO for your new speakers is intended to be connected to a speaker-level source that supplied a full-range speaker.

The mechanics of joining those wires can be anything from a soldered splice (my preference) with heat-shrink insulation or crimp-on bullet or spade connectors or even a butt-splice crimp. Just be sure that everything is well-insulated to prevent any potential for shorting against anything else.

Most likely you'll find it more hassle than it is worth to try to save the OEM speaker connector (or you'll find that you can't get a good solid connection to match the OEM) .... hopefully either the speaker is marked +/- or you have the OEM wiring diagram so you know which wire color is + and which is -. Just cut off the OEM speaker connector and go from there splicing to the bare-wire of the OEM harness. If you are concerned about restoring to OEM, just cut it far enough back that you have wire pigtail left on the OEM connector to solder it back on the harness when you remove the Polk XO.

Find a place to securely mount the small XO boxes on the dry side (car-interior side) of the door. I.e. on the car-interior side of the poly-film in the door behind the finish door-card (door trim panel). Most XO's don't care long-term for the damp environment on the 'window-side' of the poly-film inside the door. Moot if these are not going in a door.

Hope that answers and helps, others will chime in with different ideas.

 

Great info. On first attempt - I tried to jerry rig the oem connectors (female spade) to some crimped-on male ends on the XO wires. The connection wasn't very good and probably not even the right size for the gage of wire. With one original speaker still installed,
I tried to test the new speaker - no joy. Absolutely no sound although the original speaker still put out sound. I'll try a different method next time.

Side note - is there a reason 2.7 ohm speaker wouldn't work if a 4 ohm speaker was still connected?

 

....Side note - is there a reason 2.7 ohm speaker wouldn't work if a 4 ohm speaker was still connected?

From what you've written I suspect there were other connection issues in play .... but for more info relating to adding instead of simply replacing speakers, read this.... Series Parallel Speaker Impedance

In general, given your apparent skill level (we all gotta start somewhere, no worries), I'd stick with using the Polk's as replacement speakers and remove the OEM speakers on that circuit entirely before hooking them up. That'll keep things much simpler in the long run. You sure can't get any feel for how the replacement will sound alone as long as the old ones are also in play.

If you are replacing only front speakers and still have OEM in the rear (or vice-versa) you likely will have to tweak the head unit balance controls to get things to sound best to your ear. EQ (bass/mid/treble) may need adjustment, too, and may be a compromise at best with a new mix of speakers especially if your HU doesn't allow separate EQ adjustment for front vs rear.

Worst than can happen is you decide you don't like it even though the new speakers are supposed to be "better" according to 'someone'. No worries, back-up and try something different, Lord knows lots of that goes on around here, it ain't a sin to try something and decide you don't like it. But it is silly to live with a sound you don't like just because someone else said "that's a 'better' speaker" (IMHO).

My apology if you're already ahead of this stuff.