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Ported boxes sound just as good as sealed, if built properly. I don’t buy that nonsense that sealed is superior to ported. Ya sealed has more room for error design wise vs a ported and that’s why most choose sealed. Because a poorly designed sealed box will sound better than a poorly designed ported. I used to be a sealed/bandpass snob myself since buying prefab ported boxes that always seemed to lack. Built my first SQ ported box vs buying a generic “off the shelf” ported box and it was amazing. Also I’ve had custom made sealed boxes for that specific driver that sounded amazing, but still ported wins all day every day IMO if built right. At the end of the day it’s not a matter of sealed vs ported, but more of a what driver is better suited for sealed or ported and put in a proper built box. You can have the most badass sub in the world but if you have a garbage box it gonna sound like garbage. Box design is just as important as the sub itself! Currently I’m rocking a 10” rear deck mounted trunk baffle which some consider IB but it’s not really IB because the trunk is the baffle. It sounds amazing off stock amp! Can’t wait until the helix dsp takes over to see the results. Anyways I chose the driver (kicker compVR) due to it’s high QTS. My trunk volume is 12.5 cu ft vs 3.0 cu ft max sealed that the driver calls for. More than 4x spec, but it sounds great, on a stock amp. Sure I could wall off the area to meet the drivers spec but why bother if it sounds good? Don’t get lost in the weeds fellas, trust your ears.
Edit: here’s its qts
View attachment 314301
Sealed enclosures have better transient response (tighter punchier bass) than vented, it's a scientific fact whether or not anyone likes it or agrees with it.

Many people think ported boxes are punchier because they are more efficient, you get louder sound output for the same amplifier power using a ported enclosure.

You can overcome this disadvantage by using a bandpass enclosure. However, there is no free lunch in physics and you will sacrifice frequency response. Most people don't care that much about playing 150 Hz through their subwoofers anyway so this doesn't matter a lot. A sealed rear chamber bandpass can get very close to matching the output of a vented design at low frequency and sound better doing so.

Designing and building this type of enclosure is a little more work and they aren't very forgiving about design or build errors. Poorly built bandpass speakers can be one of the worst sounding designs you have ever heard.

Most SPL competitors use this type of enclosure. Ported front and rear chamber bandpass designs were the cool thing to have for a while until people discovered most of them sound like trash. You could be the loudest guy around but if you played a drum solo on this type of enclosure you would agree they sound terrible unless designed and built very carefully and modified after installation to make them sound okay in a vehicle.

Sealed enclosures are usually chosen by people in sound quality SQ competitions because they reproduce music more accurately.

Anyway, I hope this helps clear up some of the misunderstanding happening in this thread.
 
Re: Designed for sealed or ported



they're both right and they're both wrong.

Here's the deal...go get a cup of coffee...

The Qts of the speaker indicates the shape of the roll-off. A Qts of .707 is considered ideal for infinite baffle because provides the best compromise between low frequency extension and transient response. So, let's say you have a woofer and you want to build a sealed box. Let's also say you have a TARGET Qtc (total Q of the box and woofer) of .707 and your woofer has a Qts of .5

The box volume will be calculated to provide an "aid" to the speaker's suspension (makes the suspension stiffer) so that the Qtc will be raised to the target of .707. If the woofer has a very compliant suspension (low Q) then the box will have to contribute more restoring force, so it will have to be small. If the woofer has a stiff suspension (higher Q) then the box will have to contribute less restoring force, so it will have to be bigger. If the Qts of your woofer is higher than the target Qtc, then the target isn't achievable.

So, the Q of the woofer determines the volume of the box for a given target Qtc. The low frequency extension is determined by the woofer's resonance frequency, Fs. The Fs is also raised in the sealed box iin the same proportion as the increase in Qts to Qtc.

So, a woofer with a really low Qts and a low Fs is well suited to a small sealed box SO LONG AS THE VOICE COIL IS LONG. Sealed boxes require much more excursion from the speaker than vented boxes do. A woofer with a short coil is not well suited to a sealed box unless it will be driven with very low power.

A vented box is more complicated. It's a combination of a sealed box and an additional resonance. A low Q woofer designed for a sealed box will work just fine in a vented box, but the additional coil necessary for the sealed box will be wasted in the vented box and its mass makes for a less efficient system than a woofer with the same Q and less mass.

Anyway, the box volume for a vented box is calculated to provide a target response similar to the sealed box. Usually the volume is a bit bigger because we want a lower Qtc (which doesn't really exist in the vented arrangement, but we'll use it as an example).

The port is basically a speaker that's designed to play loudly at one note. Its response is a peak. We design the port to have a response that compliments the response of the woofer. We hear the sum of the output of the woofer and the output of the port. If we increase the tuning frequency, we have an area where the port's response and the woofer's response have a small gap--that creates a peak in the response in those frequencies. If we move the port to a lower frequency, we have a dip in the frequencies in between. Usually, the resonance frequency is chosen to extend the low frequency response as low as possible while maintaining flat response. For small bookshelf-style home speakers, a little bump is often helpful in providing some additional bass.

At the frequency where the box is tuned, the port plays, but the woofer hardly moves. This is because the acoustic impedance (pressure) inside the box is much higher. Yes, the pressure inside a ported box is HIGHER (at the tuned frequency) than in a sealed box. Below the frequency where the box is tuned, there is much LESS pressure than in a sealed box--hence the need for a subsonic filter. So, at the low frequencies where the box is tuned, the woofer doesn't move much, so we don't need a heavy long coil. That makes it easier to make a more efficient woofer, since we don't need so much moving mass.

OK, so what does all of this mean?

1. If you're going to use lots of power and a sealed box, then you need a woofer with a long coil.

2. If you're going to use a vented box, a woofer with a shorter coil will be fine.

3. If you use a woofer designed for a small sealed box (low Q) in a vented box, the box volume requirement will be small and the port frequency requirement will be low. That means the port will be very long and the box will be difficult to build because the port will be difficult to fit in the box.

4. If you use a woofer with a short coil, designed for a vented box, in a sealed box with high power, the woofer will run out of coil and you'll hear distortion. Because the condition that produces the distortion is symmetrical (coil leaves the gap in both directions), the distortion will be mostly odd-order, which sounds nasty. "Brap Brap Brap".

So, what's the conclusion?
Your power requirement and choice of box type determines whether a long coil (woofer with high Xmax) is necessary. Almost all woofers will work in a sealed or vented box, so long as the woofer's Qts is lower than your target Qtc. A woofer with a Qts higher than .707 will have a peak in its response NO MATTER WHAT KIND OF BOX YOU USE. The rest is a matter of compromising between box size, power required to hit a target SPL and required low frequency extension.

When you put the box in the car, the transfer function (car's frequency response) will be added to the response of the woofer. this will produce roughly a 12dB per octave increase in level as frequency is reduced starting at about 50 or 60 Hz, depending on the size of the car. A vented box will give you a big peak and a sealed box will not. If you have an EQ, then you can reduce the peak by reducing the power the amp has to provide at those frequencies. I think a vented box and EQ is always the best way to go, so long as you can afford the space and the EQ.
Make it easy ported box sounds a little more boomy and you need to pay more attention to power and can be tuned to certain frequency, a sealed box will play lower if it's big a smaller sealed box will sound thumpy more punchy I've heard big sealed boxes that drop way low though also your speaker will handle more power better in a sealed box.If you go with what the company specs call for either box will sound good
 
Make it easy ported box sounds a little more boomy and you need to pay more attention to power and can be tuned to certain frequency, a sealed box will play lower if it's big a smaller sealed box will sound thumpy more punchy I've heard big sealed boxes that drop way low though also your speaker will handle more power better in a sealed box.If you go with what the company specs call for either box will sound good
 
Im currently installing a system in my Mercury Milan, just the 6 speaker version with sync. I have 2 15" orion xtr (750 rms) on a skar rp-1500.1d (benched over 1500 rms, not sure the wattage tho) and made the decision to switch from a vented enclosure to a sealed one after reading the manufacturers recommendations. This is all new to me, but it seems to be an accepted formula. Im building the box to 2 ftÂł and should be close to fully powered without clipping, but will know more after my buddy tunes it with an oscope View attachment 339017
View attachment 339018
Is that QES info for all kind of nesubwoofers ?
 
Thanks for this thread, cleared up a few things for myself.
 
Gents, I've got an issue with mid bass response in my build. I've upgraded an OEM speaker in OEM enclosure. It is according to manufacturer 4.8L ported one. It is also behind front kick panel as well, but taking it off won't make big differebce,
The speaker is Hertz Millie Pro 165.3. Inputs are leveled out in DSP, but in RTA readings the midbass around 100Hz got a huge spike up and then almost nothing up to 300-350Hz when it is goes up a bit. Is the port might be an issue there? Should I plug it with some foam?
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Gents, I've got an issue with mid bass response in my build. I've upgraded an OEM speaker in OEM enclosure. It is according to manufacturer 4.8L ported one. It is also behind front kick panel as well, but taking it off won't make big differebce,
The speaker is Hertz Millie Pro 165.3. Inputs are leveled out in DSP, but in RTA readings the midbass around 100Hz got a huge spike up and then almost nothing up to 300-350Hz when it is goes up a bit. Is the port might be an issue there? Should I plug it with some foam?

I think you might be fighting two issues. The first is that the 165.3 is really suited more to a sealed or infinite baffle enclosure. The second issue is cabin gain and destructive interference.



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So it has a Qts of 0.58 and a Vas of 9.5L. A speaker can make sounds in any box but not nessessary perform at it's best. The T/S parameter suggest a better sealed alignment or with the correct high pass filter to avoid running out of Xmax it could also work in a IB.

The method to know for sure would be to use the parameters above and enter that into one of the many speaker simulation programs and see what the suggested alignments look like. Then compare that to the box you are placing it in.

Ports are like tunned pipes. They work to re-enforce the speaker output by resonating with the volume of the box and the response of the speaker. Since you have changed the speaker, you have changed one of the variables and it may no longer be optimized. Again, a speaker simulation tool will help to determine the optimum port for your 165.3 and then you can see how it matches with the port in that enclosure. As a guess.... the volume and length in that port are probably not what you want.


So how about we test...

Remove the enclosure from the kick and get it outside the car as best you can. Stuff a rag in the port to "seal" it and then place the mic within about 1 ft of the center of the speaker. Set up the system to only drive this one speaker.

Run a sweep, this is the near field response of your speaker in a "sealed" box of 4.5l per your spec above.

Note....
Keeping the enclosure outside the car means you removed the influence of the volume of the car (Cabin gain).​
Keeping the other speakers off means you have removed the influence of a second speaker cancelling with the first speaker. (destructive interference)​

Next remove the rag to un-seal the port.

Now you have the response of the ported and speaker adding together. It's likely you will see a large hump in the response.

If you want you do some fab work and install the speaker in a large box then this will measure "closer" to an IB installation

Note -
This will remove the sound of the plastic box. I bet it has a notable sound to it when you knock on it with your knuckles.​
That same sound will exist when it is excited by a speaker. Just like knocking on a bell.​

The next step would be to re-install the speaker repeat the measurements with only one speaker playing. Now you are adding cabin gain based on the dimensions of your car.

Following that you can turn on both mid base drivers and no other speakers. Now you are measuring the interference when the two speakers may destructively combine to cause a null at some point in the response.

So that is a long answer to the question " does this port have an issue?"
Unfortunately, it is a complicated problem with a lot of variables. Best to measure a few things and determine which variable might be influencing the performance.

Hope that is helpful....
 
Hope that is helpful....
Man, that was a very detailed answer. I'm just wondering how tuners are actually doing their job. There are so many variables, that sometimes it seems impossible.
I've installed all new speakers in OEM places with minimum or actually zero body or trim modifications. Installed good amp, sub, tried to tune it and that was almost impossible. Woofers are installed way to low, pointing centre console, so my shoes are probably happy with the sound, but not my ears.
Done RTA with REW (this forum guides are great BTW) and graphs are perfect when mic is in straight line to speakers only. But in listening position is all over the place
Both woofers got huge gap between 200-400Hz, and from 400 higher up gain dropped by 25dB. Can fix it partially with mids, but those plays well only up to 1kHz. Well driver side one only, as passenger graph looks more like sinusoid, not a speaker response. Only tweeters are easy to tame, but those are on dash height. So it looks like a port is the least of my problems. But thank you for the answer, if I need to spend so much time on single speaker only, and just to diagnose the problem, then well, best option would be to give up.
I put all on hold, will try to fabricate different adapters for mids to point them up and bit toward the front seats, but I'm out of ideas for woofers. There is simply no space to change their direction, unless I go back to OEM 4" one. But even then, the 10° max axis change won't mate huge difference, and putting the side kick panel will ruin the effect anyway. No win here.
And I love all those YT installation videos where as test they are playing a simple, bass heavy music. That kind of music sounds good on mine as well, but hard rock/metal sounds at medicore to bad.
 
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