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Good "Budget" amplifiers

15K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  bwalk101  
#1 ·
I have been looking around for some budget friendly amps up to 6 channels 100 watts or more per channel and I prefer to stay with new equipment I am a little hesitant to buy higher tier used. What specs should I be paying the most attention to in determining if an amp will be decent S/N of 95+? I have been looking at an audio control lc6.1200 and also at using 2 Us acoustics Barbra ann or even entertaining the idea of a couple sundown amps but not really sure at what point I am getting too "cheap" that the quality and performance will suffer. I appreciate any input of what to look out for or specific amps to look at and I prefer to keep the total cost under $700 for the amp(s)
 
#2 ·
These open box sony's seem pretty good. I haven't hooked mine up yet.

assuming you're doing a 3 way you would run one on the MR/TW and bridge the other on the midbass.


These JL RD's are pretty sexy imo

Micro amp option

or check out those cheap toro micro amps.
 
#7 · (Edited)
These open box sony's seem pretty good. I haven't hooked mine up yet.

assuming you're doing a 3 way you would run one on the MR/TW and bridge the other on the midbass.
.
I bought two, and should get the third. Good amps, clean with good detail and separation. But this can’t make sense since all amps sound the same
One is on rear fill/ tweeters the other bridged on mids. Need one more to bridge on midbass
 
#3 ·
It's nearly impossible to determine quality based on specs as no two manufacturers test or even list them the same way. S/N ratio of >95db at rated output versus at 1 Watt are two VASTLY different things. US Acoustics are great amplifiers and so are Audio Control. Sundown are fine for Subs but maybe not for full range. Which brings up the next variable... Class D versus A/B. Companies like JL Audio have made full range Class D amps fairly common but that doesn't mean all Class D full range amps are equal. However most Class A/B Amps use established designs and standards that result in quality sound (US Acoustics.) Hope this helps.

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#5 ·
MMats 6150D would be an awesome choice, I feel if you bought it from a member here you would be in the clear. With that said you need to define what you are going to be using it for and your space constraints. If it doesn't fit a recommendation is useless. The more information the better. I would never suggest something without knowing these questions when buying an amp:

Size and location?
What speakers are you driving?
Ohm load, if you plan on subs knowing what ohm load is a factor with staggered channel amps (hybrids)
Preference, if you MUST have class A/B then your choices are limited in a 6 channel at over 100wpc at that price new
Is your budget flexible? Some people don't know what they want can cost more then they expected.
Are you willing to buy a used item from a respectable seller?

You answered a few of these and that's a great start!

To answer YOUR questions about specs I look for these.
THD at rated power
S/N ratio
Slew rate
Damping Factor
If you are using the built in crossovers I look for 24db/Octave

But like others have mentioned all specs aren't measured at the same levels so read the fine print to compare apples to apples.
 
#6 ·
If you are using this for a 3-way front end I would highly recommend this amp if it fits the criteria mentioned and being $499 it is certainly a budget 6 channel with 100wpc and all the changes being the SQ model, op amps, caps, tiffany RCA's etc. I noticed the specs are not correct in the Amazon post, read Zapco's website.

 
#8 · (Edited)
I appreciate the information and to add some more info this is going in a 2020 GMC sierra behind the rear seat, space should be ample for any reasonable sized amplifier or multiple amps. I am currently running 2 sets of CDT ES 6.5 CV's and 1 set of CDT unity 8 wideband drivers in the dash all 4 ohm and running Sub (sundown SD4 12) off a different amp. I know I do not need a ton of power to run this setup I just prefer to have some unused capacity and not have to run the amp very hard even when the volume is occasionally cranked up. I will be using either a Helix DSP or mini dsp for processing. I am not terribly picky about A/B or D I just want it to sound good without a very audible "hiss" at low volume levels or a cheap amp that is prone to alternator whine if at all possible. I am not looking to build a SQ monster like some of the members on here build, I am looking for it to sound very good, dare I say better than average. I am not planning of blanketing the whole truck in multiple layers of deadening, just strategically where it would be most beneficial....It is a truck I mainly use to tow with not my daily driver.

Budget is flexible, I would rather spend a little more and buy equipment once instead of replacing something I am not happy with. As far as used vs new I generally prefer new but I am not 100% set on that....I do keep looking at a used arc 6 channel, I am just irrationally paranoid about potentially buying something used that was not "good enough" to keep installed in their system.
 
#9 ·
My install is purely SQ and I'm running 4x150 to the doors, 2x75 sail panels and 1x90 center channel. Not having to turn the gain wide open can help lower the noise floor and having too much power is WAY better than not having enough.

If it fits your budget the MMats 6150 is a spectacular choice.

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#10 · (Edited)
Sounds like the Zapco ST-6x SQ is your amp for an excellent budget SQ 1 amp solution. For another option that won't take up more room and just a bit more cash is two ARC Audio 300.4's. Since you have a 3-way component system and the 8" drivers are only 84dB sensitivity (probably a little more measured at 1 watt as opposed to 2.83V) you would have 4x90watts and 2x350 watts of clean efficient class G/H power with dynamic headroom and plenty of damping factor which is lacking on most class D designs, save for the venerable Zapco C2K 9.0. I have seen the test birth sheets and they are underrated so say 120x4 and at least 350x2 for your midbass. What you are gaining is headroom and thus lessening the chance of clipping and better channel separation.

Oh and I forgot, if you are willing to increase your budget to the Arc solution I better throw out this gem of a scenario, 2 Biketronics BT4180's. I have one and the control over the midbass is to die for, meaning great slew rate/damping factor. They are guaranteed for life and they are made in Utah, I spoke with the engineer that designs them personally and he is very receptive and answered my questions quickly and frankly. He supports the diy community, plus they are tiny! They also made a 6 channel, but you need to call them for that, it's not listed on their website. You can read about it here:



Zapco all in 1 solution $499
Arc 4 channel $1,278
Biketronics $1,400 lifetime warranty, customizable if you call them.
 
#12 ·
Pick a big name brand and buy one you like.
As long as you don't get near clipping the amp you likely won't even hear a difference anyway.
The difference between 75w per channel and 150 is super minimal. The difference between 50w and 75w is almost impossible to hear volume wise.
Id go with the amp that gives the most power that is in your budget. Headroom is never a bad thing.