Wow, 12 hours and NO ONE replied? I can see why, this is entirely an SPL type of question, to which I am not in that arena. To answer this simple question we need more answers to do so. If I put all of these on a magnet and randomly threw them at a board that's the type of answers you are going to get based on your one question.

Provide more info, subs, ohm load(s), box type, what goals do you have? Are you missing something, or just power hungry? We can play this game all day, but it's a waste of time unless you give us more.

 

Thanks for replying. Sorry I thought I provided enough info. Here’s to answer the questions:
This is to power a sundown u-15 1500 w rms. It’s a 2 ohm dual coil sub which will equate to 1 ohm load on the amp. I believe all the listed amps are capable of handling 1 ohm load. Not sure if I am going to go with ported or non ported box. I would like something that makes it sound clean, can fully power it, and not have problems with getting too hot.

does the amp that you get have any effect on what type of enclosure you should get? I didn’t think these were related to each other

 

I'd put my vote in for the Salt! Can't go wrong with that one.

 

that’s what I’m hoping for. The guy’s not replying. Might be able to get it for $300. The DC and Mmats, I found for $175.

 

My brother has a pair of U15's in his civic. He had a Taramps Bass 3K on them, then 2, now has the Bass 8K on them, hits 152db.

That is all coming out this weekend for Kicker Solo X 12's. I'm taking one 3K for my subs, he has the other to sell, and is keeping the 8K for the solos.

If you want a Taramps Bass 3k let me know today, he is driving up here Friday morning and can bring it along and can ship it from here (unless you live in GA or MI). PM me and I'll get a price from him. I can find out what he was hitting with the one 3K.. it was in the 140's. Or if you want 2 more U15's let me know

I think he still has his sundown amps, and a pile of others, he just never sells anything.

 

He’s running 3000 watts rms into a 1500 w rms speaker? Wouldn’t that blow them? Or is that going to two speaker?

 

300$ is a hell of a deal, I'd jump on that. I run the 400.2 bridged to my front sub. It runs cool, not noisy and getting rated power won't be an issue. I've had no issues with it.

 

For something in the running, not to cheap, quality Korean designed, sourced and built and strapable should you want to double it later, One of these refurbs:

DS18 H-KO2 Hooligan 2000 Watt RMS Monoblock Amplifier Voltmeter Mono Car Amp | eBay

DS18 H-KO2. HOOLIGAN KO Spl Series 2000 Watt RMS. RMS Power @ 4 ohm: 950W. RMS Power @ 2 ohm: 1500W. RMS Power @ 1 ohm: 2000W. RMS Power @ 0.5 ohm: 3600W (Burst). Powerful circuitry to provide the highest efficiency while pushing loads of power.

www.ebay.com

-- OR --

FOr $329 used, no brainer:

DS18 H-ko2 Hooligan Monoblock 2000w Amplifier W/ Voltmeter and Clip Indicator for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for DS18 H-ko2 Hooligan Monoblock 2000w Amplifier W/ Voltmeter and Clip Indicator at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

yup. He was running a 3k to each, now with the 8k the pair. But, he's pushing 6400W to them.

I'll have the 3K on my subs (dynos at 5k dynamic power at 1ohm) that are rated at 1125 each.

It's not a bad thing to have more power on tap if you are going for SQ as well. An amps distortion goes up as it reaches it's power limits, so if you are only using half the rated power you will have a cleaner signal. A lot of competitors will have 200W on their mids and tweets, but only actually use a few for the tweets and 10w for the mids.

Power doesn't kill speakers, distortion does by creating heat, or exceeding a speakers limits, on a sub that would be bottoming out the voice coil/exceeding the excursion limits.

So if you see a deal on an amp with more power (not necessarily my brothers) pick it up, it's not really going to hurt anything if done properly.

Side note, you will see output gains from ported vs. sealed, but the box will be bigger, sealed should play more even and lower (depending on the tuning of the ported enclosure). So if you strictly want SQ, sealed is probably better.

yup. He was running a 3k to each, now with the 8k the pair. But, he's pushing 6400W to them.

I'll have the 3K on my subs (dynos at 5k dynamic power at 1ohm) that are rated at 1125 each.

It's not a bad thing to have more power on tap if you are going for SQ as well. An amps distortion goes up as it reaches it's power limits, so if you are only using half the rated power you will have a cleaner signal. A lot of competitors will have 200W on their mids and tweets, but only actually use a few for the tweets and 10w for the mids.

Power doesn't kill speakers, distortion does by creating heat, or exceeding a speakers limits, on a sub that would be bottoming out the voice coil/exceeding the excursion limits.

So if you see a deal on an amp with more power (not necessarily my brothers) pick it up, it's not really going to hurt anything if done properly.

Side note, you will see output gains from ported vs. sealed, but the box will be bigger, sealed should play more even and lower (depending on the tuning of the ported enclosure). So if you strictly want SQ, sealed is probably better.

So I blew a kicker comp vr 12” set up with a JL 600/1. If it wasn’t the power then I’m not sure why. It was in a boat and the back was in a huge compartment. Sealed, but huge. Did that destabilize it? The gain was turned up a bit too high when I installed the amp and I didn’t notice. But the JL produces pretty clean output with my setup. I tested it with DD-1 and it was no distortion up till 650watts. The kicker was only rated for 400 watts RMS

 

Sounds to me like it could be a combination of too large a box and too much power. Too much power to a woofer in a box that is way too large can create premature cone excursion control issue where the normal RMS rating drops, a lot. I've modeled some home 250 watt RMS dayton 15's that look great in a great big box - at 1/4th their rated power and look to fail at only 50% of rated power.

 

ya they were loud as hell. Too loud even. Then they sound just disappeared. I’m def building an internal enclosure this time and setting the gain correctly.

 

The salt 2 is a great option as is a DD m2000 or m2500, the taramps smark3k is a popular option, soundigital sd5 3000.1 is probably the most compact.

Don't mess with the sfb or sia sundown amp both of those have a spotty reputation.

The salt, and sae, and sdx are all good to go.

 

SALT / DC / CT and MMATS are a toss the others I would avoid. If space is not an issue then stick with the 1/2 bridge designs that can be strapped later on if you decide to add more power.

 

Not a lot of hits on the Stinger 2000 watt, I'm thinking that I would give it a go before I would go with the taramps (unless it's one of their SMART BASS amps)like this:

Taramps Smart 3 Bass 3000W Class D Amplifier for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Taramps Smart 3 Bass 3000W Class D Amplifier at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Or again, the Stinger:

Amazon.com

 

I have the Stinger MT1000 and am super impressed with it, I would certainly recommend it based on my experience with it so far on a 15" SQL.

 

Memphis VIV are not in the same league as SALT - they would be comparable to Sundown SFB.