Factory door wires will be fine.

You will need adapters for the front door regardless of what size speaker you put in there, do they look like the ones below? Is more like an 8inch, cant comment on the 2024 IS but in my RC the only restriction was on the OD of the speaker to one small section of the door card.

Have a look at your amp, Toyota/Lexus have been using the same 30pin connector on them for like 15 years. That will tell you if the harness will work or not. The second smaller connector will also tell you if you can use a MOST adapter.

I would be suprised if the rear signal is fullrange, doubly so if its close to flat.
Pulling only from the rears only will also screw up your phone calls and navigation prompts.

Too busy to check now, but are you sure there isn't an integration option available? Is quite varible depending on year and options.
Don't know the specifics of the 2024 but a MOST decoder might also be an option @Lanson

Plenty of DSP amps available on the market. Not sure what options the Audison have for input correction, I know for sure you could get your inputs sorted with a Helix no matter what you have to work with, next V8 Ultimate would be my pick.
Your likely going to have a couple of all pass filters, some slight delay differences and a difference in the crossover slopes of the factory signals to deal with.

 

Yeah it might be this one

Аудио-интерфейс TTL-5.0 - Триома

Адаптер TTL-5.0 позволяет интегрировать вместо штатного усилителя мощности в аудиосистему автомобиля цифровой звуковой процессор и/или усилители мощности и на их основе построить аудиосистему высокого качества, применив усилительное оборудование и акустику любого производителя.

trioma.ru

Just visit with Brave or Chrome or something with translation.

But I think those model years have the TTL thing. Worst-case, pull the amp and look at the connector, to guarantee.

But you don't want to attempt this without a direct amp replacement IMO. I love my system, I'm so thankful I was able to snag my Tango-2 and build from a clean base output with Toslink. It's SOO FRIGGIN' GOOD.

The 12volt-shop.com people might also be able to assist, as they did me. Shipping was stupid fast. Not sure of the current euro to dollar conversion.

 

Matt2023, that is the same mount that the front door midwoofer is attached to. maybe the RC has larger drivers in the front door because i measured the ones that i have and they are 7". is the bracket at the bottom of the picture that you took an aftermarket mount or the factory one with the driver removed?

i'll have to have to find out which signals from the headunit have a full signal. i might have to have to connect the entire front stage to the forza to sum them. my car does use the 30 pin connector. i just ordered a pac harness form crutchfield.

 

In mine the factory speaker is the kind where it is intergrated into the mount, it is not removable in any way.

The adapter in the picture is one I designed and printed myself to accept a Helix compose W200.
If your after custom adapters @BobTheBirdTurd is the man to speak to in the USA. Id be happy to share my 3D model, but no guarantee it would fit.

 

Confused on head unit signal theory there. Does the IS not use the same complex tech the others use? Swore it would be TTL-5.0 or similar. The HU usually can't be tapped until you convert. All the ones that I've read who tried (older, different models) fought uphill battles and eventually went with a hu-skip option. Of course I would recommend not doing that, while these Trioma units exist and can be ordered.

 

I think they misspoke and meant speaker outputs from the amp.

While i agree an intergration unit is ideal it is possible to reconstruct a flat full range from the factory amp outputs, is just a pain.

That said and is hard to know without a measurement of the signals in hand, but its not even strictly necassary to reconstruct a flat full range signal, especially if not planning to intergrate multiple sources.
Could use 1 to 1 input to output routing and just fix it all up on the output side, just need a dsp with enough high level inputs, probably 8 inputs, 10 outputs in this case and maybe be willing to compromise a little on XO points, probably just on the midrange HPF.
2 x dash, 2 x front door, 2 x rears, 1 x center, 1 x sub.
Dash signal gets used for mid and tweet.

 

Volume dependent EQ also becomes a pain, if I were to do it again I would def grab the trioma but I’ve already gone the DAP route.

 

Yeah, a HUGE performance difference IMO. The Trioma specs are DVD 24bit level, definitely good for a DSP downstream from Optical. Worth it if it fits and is compatible, imo.

Edit: 28-bit.

 

forgive my ignorance but what does a MOST decoder do and where would it go in the system that i'm trying to put together? also,i'd like to buy a set of custom adapters for my midbass, rear door and possibly midrange speakers. how do i contact BobtheBigTurd?

 

Depending on model, Factory system sends audio data in digital format from the head unit to the factory amp over the MOST bus, then the amp handles all the processing, volume control etc and spits it out to the speakers.

MOST decoder takes the place of the factory amp and decodes it into a simple 2ch stereo optical signal, instead of what the factory amp does.

Check the stickies for requirements to DM members

 

Made a video about my build (phase 1), in it I go through some details about MOST but specifically, if you go to your amp and see that connector, then you know you have it and the Tango-2 is the right one for you. You could also have the TTL type. Hang on, I think I can actually find out, ...

Meanwhile for adapters it might be a different situation but Amazon had all the ones I needed (again, covered in my build log and video)

You mentioned you have a 2024 is non-ml. The furthest I can find solid OEM info on is a 2022 model.

For that one, it looks like a 24 pin white connector, two rows by 12. NOT MOST-50 which is like two squares in a wide connector.

 

i finally had time to look at the factory amp and it looks like it has 30 pins.

does the MOST decoder plug into the smaller connection plug that sends the signal to the factory amp for whatever processing that happens?

@Matt2023, do you happen to remember the thickness of the custom adapter that you had made for your front door speakers so that they wouldn't interfere with the window? the speakers that i bought have a mounting depth of 2 3/4 of a inch and i want to make sure that is close before i ask Bob to make a pair of them.

 

That connector on the left, the one you pulled to do a pin check head-on, I believe that's the OUTPUT side because that looks just like the TY02 harness side.
But the input side I can't tell from these pics. Isn't there 3 connectors on that amp? Like this? https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/b4kAAeSwiSpo0siO/s-l1200.jpg

That 24-pin one, again not enough info here by pics but that looks like it lines up. Its

You don't have MOST-50 in these pics, and I don't think you have it on the car, but I do think you have the TTL 5.0, at least so far I do.

You sure you can't fit a shallow 8" midbass there? That looks an awful lot like it would take it. I saw a huge gaping hole in the steel in pics online where the speaker goes. I get that it would have to be shallow; my GS has the same door panel skin almost exactly like yours (same speaker grille shape and depth, top), but it had a 6x9 under the skin. Yours looks just like an 8" would.

Pause to look on ClubLexus and....bam! https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/999836-2023-lexus-is-350-speakers.html. Dude stuck OneAudio midbass in this door. That was my plan B if the Etons didn't wow me (they did), but this is a no-brainer, something like this will make a HUGE performance difference. Just stick the 6.5's in the rear door, I wonder if the Red Wolf 6.5" adapters I used in the rear fit yours the same or not. Hmmm

 

Off the top of my head my adapters are 38mm from door skin to speaker mounting surface

 

i took better pictures of the my amp with the connector.

 

That smaller connector with the other two smaller squares inside is a MOST connector.

Your best bet is to get a bunch of pics, including part numbers of the amp and get in touch with the 12volt shop to see if thier decoder will work.

Options if thats a no go are to reconstruct a full range signal from the factory amp output, its possible, just tricky.

Or what i do, can use a SMSL PO 100 or similar direct to the DSP to cut the headunit out of the audio signal chain entirely.
Can still control the phone with the factory headunit via bluetooth or wireless AA/carplay.
Downside is you lose factory volume and need a dsp remote for volume control.
With an auto source switching DSP, phone calls etc can still function as normal.

 

In my research (which you helped a lot btw!), I found that IF it's a MOST-50 connector like we see here, it's basically sure to be only one solution because it wasn't updated at all by the original manufacturer, SMSC, I think it was.

Worst-case, you get the unit (TANGO-2) and find it doesn't work, best case you end up as happy as I am. Middle-ground, you offload the unit to a diyma person who can use it, which is probably any Toyota or Lexus owner wishing to keep their stock HU in the mix like I did. I find there are lots of us, but many are gun-shy about ordering the unit to solve the problem. I HAD to, to meet my goals (rear audio seat controls was a must for me so the only way was with the front HU in complete control). There are Chinese versions for 1/2 price on Ali but I could never reach a soul from China to talk about it. The 12volt-shop people emailed me back very quickly and covered my concerns. It was expensive but not more than I could bear, given what it does for me.

 

YEP! That one is it. Well now, that wasn't on my Bingo card for this model year, that's for sure. But either way, your path is clear. Follow my log (on here or my video), and you should have a good time with Toslink optical out as your output to your DSP.

 

Lanson, i got derailed going through your bulid log but i'm glad that i read it from start to finish! the upgrade that i'd like to do would be child's play compered to everything that you've done. i saw in one of your post that the tango-2 was in stock less than a week ago but they're already sold out. i emailed the 12 volt store to ask how long it would be before they anticipated getting any more so now i'm in a wait and see mode for now. thanks for the info!

 

Yessir!

I'm working to make the video build log series easy to follow for fellow Lexus builders. Hopefully the 12volt-shop guy(s) can give you good news. I remember the butterflies in my stomach as I ordered this expensive tiny item with a lack of full understanding, watched it ship across the world via DHL, and then arrive at my door in black wrapping and a DHL bag. Then the utter relief and joy as I powered my whole system off the HU source through the DSP in my ad-hoc test setup.

 

well, i think i have a better idea of what i'm going to install.

the 12volt shop store doesn't have the trioma tango 2 in stock. there's a russian website that has one for $350 usd but i'm hesitant to order one from them. also, i would lose the ability to use the fader from the headunit. i know it's a compromise to use the output from the factory amp but it probably the most feasible choice at this time.

i would basically copy the system that i had in my previous car. the front stage is a three way component system. the tweeters and mid would have a passive crossover for them while the midwoofer would run straight from the amp. the front stage will be powered by an five channel audison dsp amp while the rear fill speakers are are powered by the headunit. in this case my center dash speaker that the installer disconnected would be powered by the headunit also. the subwoofer will be powered by the audison also. i'm really tempted to buy a four channel audison amp to power the midwoofers in the door and going active with the front stage because of how much more control it would give me. in that case i might as well power the rear door speakers with the extra two channels. it's just a matter of finding a spot to place a second amp.

the one thing i'd like to try is to build a custom fit fiberglass subwoofer box similar to this one

i had one in my other car and i really like how it didn't take up that much space with a 12" sub.

 

90% sure all the Toyota MOST units are the same, including the chinese ones, they all look identical.

Ignoring that, might not even have to sum the factory outputs and can just pass them through to the appropriate speaker.

In my RC,
Sub signal is LPF high enough it would work

Front door woofers bandpass eaisly covers typical 3 way midbass bandwidth

Dash signals HPF are a little high for the typical 3-way dash midrange. However is a shallow slope and the shallow slope probably works pretty good with the typical low frequency boost corner mounted dash mids get.
Dash signals also cover the tweeter.

Rears are rears, whatever.

Assume the Audison has All pass filters yeah?

If you do go down the factory signal route, it is almost mandatory you have the ability to measure phase with loopback, of both the speakers AND the factory electrical signals out of the amp.
Either route you take, summing signals or routing 1 to 1, you WILL have a bunch of APF that will cause you grief when trying to sum signals or when trying to align all the speakers to each other.