Get some beyma 8g40

 

Will check those out now. Thank you ?

Edit; Whoa ! Hard to find.... And about $600 for four. I don't doubt they are nice mid bass drivers, but that's out of my price range.

Again, that's why I'm considering cheap 8" subwoofers...

 

Problem with subwoofers is most aren’t really designed to play IB in a door and up high.

 

So something like the Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8 is not what you are looking for, correct?

If I’m understanding the requirements correctly that you have for the speaker, I don’t think you’ll have much luck finding what you want at an easily affordable price point.

I think you will have to compromise somewhere, either on price or on the specs you’ll accept.

 

I think you will have to compromise somewhere, either on price or on the specs you’ll accept.

I’m curious which driver (full range vs sub) results in the better compromise...

Thoughts?

 

Thanks guys. Yea, kind of sucks, but I guess what it really comes down to, is that true mid-bass drivers are kind of a rare and therefore pricey commodity ?
I'll keep looking, but I guess if I rve get mid bass drivers in my front doors, not only will it be a ton of work, but very expensive as well ?

I guess nobody ever said this was a cheap hobby....

 

Thanks guys. Yea, kind of sucks, but I guess what it really comes down to, is that true mid-bass drivers are kind of a rare and therefore pricey commodity ?
I'll keep looking, but I guess if I rve get mid bass drivers in my front doors, not only will it be a ton of work, but very expensive as well ?

I guess nobody ever said this was a cheap hobby....

'
Yes true 8" midbass designed for auto can be expensive. You will also notice that some of the companies that had really good 8" drivers no longer make them. For instance the JL 800 is really, really good, but JL probably really only sold 10 of them. You can certainly look at raw drivers and subs, its going to be a matter of you chasing downs specs that model well enough to do IB in a door. In this case, if you really have to run an 8", this is where looking used helps.

 

You say you're going to move them to the doors, so what are the ones you're using now and how are they installed?

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!

 

You say you're going to move them to the doors, so what are the ones you're using now and how are they installed?

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!

Not even sure what ones I'm using now. I got them from Parts Express on a clearance for like $12 each, way back.... And I can't find that order now. They are definitely not a subwoofer though. Probably 8" mid range drivers.
They are installed in the back area of my truck, but crossed over pretty low, and don't really pull the sound back very noticeably..... I mean, to me anyway. But then I've never been super concerned with a perfectly centered front soundstage. I like loud, clear, and no major peaks and valleys.
I do have a few other reasons for wanting them up front in the doors though.... And I'm not saying the better imaging would be a bad thing.

 

Some of the AF subs go to 1000Hz... and the SS Wu18 are not cheap.

What frequencies do the MR start from? Or are you using a 2-way?

 

My mid-bass is currently covering from about 90-300hz or so.
Three way.... Mids/highs, mid-bass, and sub.

 

look into eminence Alfa 8, I forgot whe model numbers but I think that’s what I used to use when the customer don’t want to spend a lot

 

Assuming he has subs in the trunk or hatch, a mid-range 8" will definitely be better than an 8" sub. The subs will handle the fundamental bass notes (which are hard to localize), while the 8" mids will keep the lower-order harmonics in the front of the vehicle where they belong. And of course, the mids will play the mid-range freqs as well.

8" subs in front would keep the fundamentals up front, which isn't really necessary, and leave a big gap in the upper harmonics/midrange freq response

Okay, I get what your saying, but since my mid-bass drivers have always been in the back, behind the seats maybe it would be better if "they had been sub woofers" but moving them to the front, better as mid range ? Hmmm. That would make sense...

 

If you only intend to play them down to 100hz, why use an 8"? Any 6.5" can do that. The point of using a big midbass is to be able to dig lower with more authority, 8"s would be wasted if you only play them to 100hz.

 

I agree, I wouldnt put the effort to run an 8 and to go 100hz, even 80. Any decent 6.5 will do that easily.

 

Stevens Audio MB-8 (MB stands for mid bass). About a $100 a speaker. Check them out... might be what you're looking for?

 

Hmmmm. Still pretty expensive though. I'm thinking like $50 or less. I'm going to need at least 4 of them, but honestly, I'd like 6 or 8 someday {just really feel like a daily driver needs 1200 or 1500 wts of mid-bass lol}

 

Hey now.... anybody know anything about these ???

Home

PRV Audio 8MB450-4 v2 8" Pro Audio Midbass Speaker 4 OhmThe 8MB450-4 v2 8" from PRV Audio is a pro audio midbass woofer that offers smooth lower response through a punchy midbass range and the frequency response that takes your applications smoothly through the 7,500 Hz range.The 2" voice coil...

www.parts-express.com

And honestly, I love my 18" Skar Audio subwoofer, so maybe these ?

FSX8 | 8" 350 Watt Mid-Range Loudspeaker | Skar Audio

The Skar Audio FSX8 8" mid-range speaker is the optimal choice when looking to enhance your mid-range sound in your audio setup. Conservatively rated at 350 watts max power and available in 4 ohm and 8 ohm coil configurations.

www.skaraudio.com

And btw, while the top driver here is listed as a mid-bass speaker, the frequency range starts at 75hz. The Skar is listed as a mid-range, but the frequency range starts at 80hz. Not much difference. Yes, I know the numbers on paper don't always say much, but so far I've been really impressed with both my Skar subwoofer, and my Skar 4ch amp...

Edit; Wow, I like the specs on these even better !

Home

PRV Audio 10MB400-4 10" Professional Midbass Driver 4 OhmThe 10MB400-4 10" mid-bass from PRV Audio is perfect for delivering a high output midbass punch to professional, home, and even automotive sound systems. Optimized for use in compact enclosures, this mid-bass provides extremely flat...

www.parts-express.com

Might be a better match with my 18" sub as well. I forgot to say, it doesn't "have to be an 8" driver Pretty sure 10"s would fit no problem also.

 

Hey now.... anybody know anything about these ???

Home

PRV Audio 8MB450-4 v2 8" Pro Audio Midbass Speaker 4 OhmThe 8MB450-4 v2 8" from PRV Audio is a pro audio midbass woofer that offers smooth lower response through a punchy midbass range and the frequency response that takes your applications smoothly through the 7,500 Hz range.The 2" voice coil...

www.parts-express.com

And honestly, I love my 18" Skar Audio subwoofer, so maybe these ?

FSX8 | 8" 350 Watt Mid-Range Loudspeaker | Skar Audio

The Skar Audio FSX8 8" mid-range speaker is the optimal choice when looking to enhance your mid-range sound in your audio setup. Conservatively rated at 350 watts max power and available in 4 ohm and 8 ohm coil configurations.

www.skaraudio.com

And btw, while the top driver here is listed as a mid-bass speaker, the frequency range starts at 75hz. The Skar is listed as a mid-range, but the frequency range starts at 80hz. Not much difference. Yes, I know the numbers on paper don't always say much, but so far I've been really impressed with both my Skar subwoofer, and my Skar 4ch amp...

Edit; Wow, I like the specs on these even better !

Home

PRV Audio 10MB400-4 10" Professional Midbass Driver 4 OhmThe 10MB400-4 10" mid-bass from PRV Audio is perfect for delivering a high output midbass punch to professional, home, and even automotive sound systems. Optimized for use in compact enclosures, this mid-bass provides extremely flat...

www.parts-express.com

Might be a better match with my 18" sub as well. I forgot to say, it doesn't "have to be an 8" driver Pretty sure 10"s would fit no problem also.

For what it's worth I run these PRV as my bass stage on my Harley in the bags facing the rear wheel.

"PRV Audio 8MB600FT 8" Forte Series Professional Midbass 8 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!

PRV Audio 8MB600FT 8" Forte Series Professional Midbass 8 Ohm

www.parts-express.com

I would listen to the other guys with way more experience than me though.

 

The SLS 8 is about 55 a pop, really only plays from like 60-300, good xmax, like 86db.

The eat up the power are 8 ohm and do like large sealed/IB type set up though.

If you've got a dedicated midrange you really only need to go to about 300hz for a midbass, most subs don't really do that.

 

I REALLY like the looks of these ! ....and a frequency range starting at 46hz.... should do 90-300 really well !

Home

Dayton Audio PA255-8 10" Pro WooferDayton Audio PA Series Pro Woofers are a great upgrade for musical instrument or sound reinforcement cabinets, and also excel in custom-built speaker systems. High power handling, smooth response, low distortion, deep punchy bass, and rugged reliability are the...

www.parts-express.com

Ah.... bummer... 8 ohm Unless I ran 4 of them in each door lol

 

**** give that a whirl and let us know what you think

 

Well you saw that the Dayton's were 8 ohm right ? But the 10" PRV's above are 4 ohm, and the specs look good. I will probably get those and install them in the current location in the back, just to test them.... but then I will start some research on building custom door panels, and eventually try to move those up front...

 

8 ohms is not a hindrance, don't get so hung up on it.

The Dayton RS225-4 is 8", 4 ohm, 91db, low fs.

 

Okay, so let's say you needed a good, solid driver to install T27 Torx head fasteners.

But your "only" choices are....

1) 4mm Hex Wrench
2) #3 Phillips

 

You don't have to lose what the sub adds st the top of its range of use. You just have to get it to blend with the mids without detracting from the appearance of bass being up front. It's all in the tune. That is one reason I don't use -24db LR for most of the subs I've used, it's too abrupt on most clean and detailed subs. It kills off some of the useful response beyond the crossover point that adds to summing.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!

 

You don't have to lose what the sub adds st the top of its range of use. You just have to get it to blend with the mids without detracting from the appearance of bass being up front. It's all in the tune. That is one reason I don't use -24db LR for most of the subs I've used, it's too abrupt on most clean and detailed subs. It kills off some of the useful response beyond the crossover point that adds to summing.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!

You bring up some really good points here. I'm definitely going to play with my X-over points a bunch more, when I get my DSP in, and see if I can get more out of my 8" mod bass drivers ... But also going to try up to 120 hz with my sub, because honestly vi think that will sound great too ?

 

I would look for drivers with very low Le (inductance). Otherwise look for drivers like DYNAUDIO MW 170, Old Focal Utopia, JBL 800 GTI, Morel Elate 9, JL audio ZR800, Hybrid L8/L8se,......

 

I think that's a pretty high priced list though. Maybe the JBL's...

 

As an exmple of pro audio drivers, my personal speakers are designed for home audio/theater but have a pro audio pedigree. The horn-loaded compression driver has a sensitivity of over 100dB. To keep up my MIDRANGES are 12” with 95dB sensitivity and barely play below 80Hz. But unlike most speakers that you turn up and at a certain point the speakers get unhappy, mine will stay perfectly clear (and detailed) and you’ll be the one hurting before they are.

 

Hey Chris - not sure if you saw these, but they look solid for $30 a pop:

"8" High Excursion Paper Cone Subwoofer Driver 4 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!

They got a relatively high Fs (45.6 Hz) and QTS (.56), so they should do everything you're looking for in a door. Unfortunately I don't see any frequency plots or anything.

 

Hey Chris - not sure if you saw these, but they look solid for $30 a pop:

"8" High Excursion Paper Cone Subwoofer Driver 4 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!

They got a relatively high Fs (45.6 Hz) and QTS (.56), so they should do everything you're looking for in a door. Unfortunately I don't see any frequency plots or anything.

Wow ! I had not seen those, and they look like they would work great. Plus, the price is right. TY. I will totally consider those. ?

 

Have you considered Silver flute 8" they have 4 ohm option and aren't very pricey IMO.

Silver Flute W20RC38-04 ohm 8" Wool Cone

Silver Flute 8" W20RC38-04 in 4 ohms. Features include rubber surround and robust cast metal frame.

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

 

JBL does midbass very well. 2-3 ohm and high sensitivity.
I think you need to keep the sub at 80 LP and do the midbass at 100-350ish. When you get the DSP, use LR -24db crossovers for both. You will see what I mean.

 

Thank you F150. I'll open to trying anything.