Hi, I'm wondering what people on here think is one of the best amps they,ve heard for hearing all the details in the subwoofer department ,which holds its composure at higher volumes.and if anything just gets louder and clearer till you run out of volume ,plus has piles of headroom. I'm looking for an amp that has the ability to do this when powering 2 400rms each subwoofers. For my mids and tweeters. I doubled the rms power they were quoted for., and it sounds way better with the extra headroom. So if I were to do the same with each subwoofer.It would be getting 800 rms watts each. I want to be very clear I am not interested in solely hearing just the subwoofers playing.I would like to get the best detailed amp people consider on these forums and have the ability like I do with my mids and tweeters, to be able to keep the gains down so the amp is working very easy,and to have the extra headroom so when certain transients in the music call for lots of power.I will have it on tap for the few seconds it may arrise. Thanks
coomaster1
What?No one else?
I feel like everybody is sitting back waiting for somebody to put their foot in their mouth.
Ok.Ill try some more.
PPI A1200
Old Kicker ZR1000 (1500w)
RF T2500-bdcp
RF T3001bd
MTX Elite TE4001
If going with the class d amps I would run 4 or 2 ohms giving them more reserve capacity and a little higher efficiency.
I feel like everybody is sitting back waiting for somebody to put their foot in their mouth.
Ok.Ill try some more.
PPI A1200
Old Kicker ZR1000 (1500w)
RF T2500-bdcp
RF T3001bd
MTX Elite TE4001
If going with the class d amps I would run 4 or 2 ohms giving them more reserve capacity and a little higher efficiency.
Sub frequencies don't need a special amp.. Neither do highs or mids as long as the ab amp reproduces frequencies up to 30-50k and has decent filter caps. The name of the game is clean power which you can obtain with any non-lanzar-pyle-audiobahn amp. You are however on the right track with headroom because distorted or unclean power comes from pushing an amp close or over it's rated power. All you need for phenomenal frequency reproduction is a raw or uncompressed media, very nice drivers, preferably an EQ just to tone down or bring up driver shortcomings, clean power, and properly executed enclosures.
Sounds to me by the last thread posted. I am doing everything right.Just need to find a large amplifier or amplifiers that deliver very clean power,and have enough power so there is lots of headroom to produce the very loud and clean transients I and others most likely are after. So far there are not many selections listed on this thread for amplifiers like I desire.Anybody else want to chime in on a quality amp from today or yesteryear that can deliver. When I swapped out my home amp which was 400 watts rms total, and purchased a power amp like they use to run a concert., that had 880 watts total everything way way cleaner and louder and more detailed. I know I don't use the full 880 watts all the time ,but when its pretty loud like I like to listen to and then a loud passage in the music arrises.I have the extra power in reserve to handle the extra burst that is needed.This will be good for everyone interested in loud ,clean ,detailed music.
For the Popcorn crowd! Something Class AB with a high damping factor will give you what you need.
Something developed for SQ that will power your subs and leave you plenty of headroom:
Ground Zero GZPA Reference 2
Ground Zero GZPA Reference 2
Any amp that's built well and won't crap its pants when the going gets tough. I currently run a new PPI PC1000.1 on my sub. It does what it's supposed to and the sub is overpowered so don't have to push the amp at all. If my high dollar Mosconi 4 channel went out today I'd buy a new PC amp to match the sub amp.
I've checked into most of the amplifiers listed.There have been some very good choices so far.I'm running into a problem where the amp can be no longer than 20 inches or it won't fit into the car.I'm also partial to the oldschool stuff like the hifonics and other oldschool companies that the amplifiers were built from quality parts and were underrated and built to last.Are there any oldschool amps that can deliver the clean and full sounding power ,with at least 600 rms at 4 ohms per side ,and measure no more than 20 inches long.I should have mentioned how much room I had to play with,and my preference for oldschool.Sorry about that.
Sounds like you're in somewhat of a pickle then. For the power you want you're looking at something that measures more than 20" if you want an older amp that may or may not be better than the smaller footprint amps with technology that enables them to make big clean power in a small case without overheating.
Wow, only 20" to work with, AND old school. Can't be done with a typical class A/B.
You might just look for a dual amp setup if you put space constraints on such a bold "Want".
You might just look for a dual amp setup if you put space constraints on such a bold "Want".
The old Colossus is the only class ab amp Ive ever seen that can do that much power at 4 ohms stereo.But you could run 2 Zeus's or Boltar's bridged.They are under 20".
However,if you go that route the choices are almost endless.There a lot of old school amps that can be bridged to do 600 watts.The PPI A600 is another good choice.
However,if you go that route the choices are almost endless.There a lot of old school amps that can be bridged to do 600 watts.The PPI A600 is another good choice.
You will need some significant 12v power to run that much old class ab power. I gave up on them for over maybe 400rms on subs, I'd just get the power you want from a reputable brand in a class D and in your budget range and you will be fine. Unless you want to put a big alt in and huge cables and all that, which is fine, I just don't. I can run a 500rms+4x125 all class D on a 125A alt all night no problems only dims a little at a stop light, though I don't pound it much at night anyway. But I run IB subs they don't need as much power. I have an old MTX that does 850rms or something, I don't even want to put it in my car lol. I only run a 5ga cable, but my system is not intended to be maxed out much so its fine for my needs.
A lot of great amp choices so far. I am not too concerned with needing a big alternator and big wires. I already installed the bigger wires and a 200 amp alternator in the car. AS long as the oldschool amp puts out 600 rms watts per side at 4 ohms,and doesn't half to be bridged at all to do it,with nice full,detailed sound quality for the subwoofers,The magic will have been done.Thanks
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