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JBL Power-series 12" subs ?s.. Enclosures, comparisons to GT/GTO, etc...

5.7K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  ou812  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello,
I'm trying to decide on a sub for my new budget-ish build in my fiance's Corolla, I suppose you'd call it SQ over SPL, but nothing real fancy. I have the JBL P660C 6.5" Power series components and can't say enough GOOD things about them. I really haven't bought any car audio gear since the early 2000's (just kept using the same parts), but I had several 90's-era high quality component sets, and these JBL's just sound FANTASTIC!

My amps are a Fosgate Punch 200-2 for the front stage and I have a 300-1 for my sub. At 2Ω, I have between 400-450 actual watts to work with (I'll figure it out exactly once it's installed, but I don't have a way to bench-test it, and when you buy refurb'd RF, you don't get a birth certificate)

I was thinking of using a single JBL sub as well (I'm a Harman fan), I've just never been let down by them as a company (I've used lots of their stuff, too). As much as I'd like to, I can't afford to step up to the price bracket the GTi would cost (I can get a Power for $150nib). What is the consensus on the Power series subs? How do they compare to the GT, GTO, and MS (I don't get that line, really) The specs look good, and it modeled GREAT in winISD. I originally was going to use a Kicker CVT, but in the end, the box requirements were too big to get it to have a decent response, the P1224 kicks its ass all over the place; with the enclosure volume requirement, I can't take advantage of the shallow-depth like I wanted (it's her car, one of her requirements was to take up the absolute MINIMUM amount of trunk space necessary, and the Kicker needed at least a 2ft^3 to work close to how I want).

For those of you that have used the 12" Power sub, did you use it ported or sealed?

I've always preferred sealed myself, but I've also never built my own ported box, so who's to say I've ever heard a PROPER ported setup. I think ported would lend itself to what my fiance wants, especially out of a single sub, but I'm concerned about the SQ. I listen to rock, she listens to bassy music. The recommended sealed box is 1ft^3, and it simulates well in it, the ported size is 1.75 ft^3, but JBL has it tuned to 37Hz; I prefer it's predicted response tuned at 25-30Hz in the same sized box, it was less peaky with a shallower roll-off. Regardless, the size, ease, and predictability of a sealed box and the stereotypical negatives of a ported box are hard for me to get past. Are there any disadvantages of tuning this low for a car environment? I've only built a ported box for my home theater, and it's massive and tuned down real low. I'm just nervous about building for ported (or sealed) and being disappointed with the results (and I can't really experiment, it's gonna be a MDF and fiberglass box with the sub and amps countersunk in, so once it's done, it's done).

Don't really see the Power subs at many resellers, just leftovers from after it was discontinued I suppose. But they run ~$150 each. Has anyone had the opportunity to compare the Power series to the cheaper, easier to come by GT or GTO series, or to the MS (which I TOTALLY don't get?!)?

Also, I'd be open to suggestions on other 2Ω or 4ΩDVC subs, AT MAX, $150, no flex on that as I already have to lie just a bit about the price at that much.
 
#2 ·
I have the 10" version and can't say enough good things about the p series subs. Mine is in around 1.25 sealed and digs stupid low and gets stupid loud for a sealed 10. JBL is pretty good with their box recommendations but there is always room for improvement. The sheer size of the motor assembly can make building a ported enclosure slightly difficult but still do-able. Run the numbers in WINISD with a slightly larger net volume and tune it around 30, see how it works out. In my opinion in a car there's not a lot of need for an insanely low tuning since we are playing music and there isn't a ton of low low information. As long as your tuning and volume doesn't create a wild hump or dip in the passband you are good to go
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the info man... My enclosure CAN be a bit bigger than I was figuring on, mainly because of alterations I needed to make to fit this big damn monster, so I'm a little more open option-wise.

Here are a few winISD plots, the yellow line and pink line are the JBL recommended configurations for sealed and ported enclosures, respectively, while green is a 2ft^3 sealed and light blue is 2ft^3 ported @ 30Hz.

Image


It's a really tough decision for me, I'm just so unfamiliar with automotive ported setups, I'm beginning think just going with a sealed box around the 2ft^3 would be the best all-round option. Bigger than what they recommended, but that low-tuned, bigger ported box has a REALLY nice curve to it, and has reasonably sized ports.
 
#4 ·
i have 2 p1224 on a 1500w@1ohm, and have used them in a 3.5@33, and currently 2cubes sealed. ported was too boomy (i listen to a wide range of music) for me and took up too much trunk space so sealed has been a fine compromise. the only complaint i can come up with is the size and weight of the sub. The overall diameter is almost 15" if i remember correctly and each sub weighs like 30lbs (the basket and mounting ring seem to be caste iron or something). im not sure why jbl made those decisions. other than that im very pleased ith the sound, and dont plan on switching for quite a while
 
#6 · (Edited)
THANKS!!! I'm leaning towards sealed too, the more I think about it, the more I think it's the best way to go, just go a bit on the bigger side, 1.5ft^3 - 2ft^3 (especially since it sounds like you guys are running them more wattage than I will be). I like my punk and some metal, need those fast snappy bass hits...

I'm SO glad to hear everybody's happy with theirs. So many brands have gone down the tubes from the last time I really messed with this stuff to any extent, but JBL had never let me down.

That thing is a BEAST! For $150, I don't think I coulda done better!
 
#7 ·
I've heard the Power 10"s and 12"s. I've owned both of them.

I've heard them in sealed boxes, IB, and ported. Just about the majority of JBL subs beg to be ported. When I heard the Power Series 10"s and 12"s, they did not sound boomy. It's all in tuning. Look at many JBL box specs, sometimes the ported information doesn't always yield the flattest response, but, usually they are giving up a little low end extension for a smaller box.

I come from the old school, I guess. I'm just not big on the fad of small boxes for subwoofers. I came around when Kicker stated this trend with their solobaric line. If low fq reproduction is about moving air, then why choke a subwoofer in a sealed box?Because of the demand of small boxes, the cost of subs have gone up to accommodate strong motors and fighting distortion.
I'm all about efficiency, max production from the items that I have. Why run everything full tilt? Why run an amp hard to push a sub in a small sealed box? Pushing an amp harder, thus in need of a larger amp, in return more stress on an electrical system, fighting heat for the sub and the amp, all creates reliability issues in the long run. Most folks are looking for output, including SQ folks, so why not take the efficient route of getting there? I'll always be a fan of porting and IB installs for me.
 
#8 ·
Ive always been a sealed box guy. My first nice setup was a pair of MTX thunder 7000 10s in .66 each with 8-900w pushing them. I found that they had the response i was looking for when listening to country, rock, and metal, as well as the output I wanted when it was "play time". I could probably have gotten more output ported with different subs, but thats not what I was looking for
 
#9 ·
I started out in this hobby when the Solo's were first hitting their prime, I never heard one setup that I thought sounded really good. I had an IDQ12 v1 at the time that played a HELL of a lot lower in a box that wasn't too much bigger.

I think I'm on the verge of changing my mind, AGAIN. :confused: I "committed" to my enclosure size tonight (as in circular saw committed), and am rethinking going ported. By my ROUGH estimates, my enclosure is going to be 1.75-2 ft^3. According to WinISD, if I sealed it, that would put my Qtc right around .75ish. But, to look at the graphs, it looks real nice tuned to about 28-30Hz ported (2 2" diameter ports, 10"-ish long), ranging from 3-5dB greater output, with a pretty smooth curve (for a ported enclosure). I suppose I could always just port the damn thing, and if I don't like it, seal up the ports (although I REALLY REALLY don't want to, for asthetics, not sure how I'd hide the covered ports).

I just need to get the damn thing built so I can quit changing my mind. If only WinISD would come right out and tell me how it's going to sound :blush:.
 
#10 ·
I've beat the piss out of my P1224 for over a year with 800 watts. I have bottomed it out countless times, and I even had smoke coming from the port a few times. It's still hanging on like a champ.

So, it's a tank, it's loud, and it sounds so lovely. I'm worried that I won't be able to find another one if this one ever dies.
 
#11 ·
I had a long night building and knocked a P1222 from 4 feet to concrete, fractured the magnet, misaligned the pole piece and was an instant paper weight... 3 days later I smashed the magnet with a rubber mallet and re-aligned the pole, the cone then moved freely without any noticeable rub. I taped it all up and threw it in a box on 800 watts and drove to my friends place. It just never quit, so with the help of some epoxy I am still running these subs.