Just tossing out an idea, but you could get a 3-way toggle or rocker switch and use it on the remote wire for the aftermarket amp and factory turn-on wire for the factory setup.

Should allow you to send a turn-on signal to the setup you wish to use or no power to either if you really wanted to have no bass. (Crazy thought, right)

Edit

Nevermind, didn't read that you were going to use a 5-channel amp that you'll want the 4-channel portion active at all times.

 

(Power wheels ROcker switches)
Your Welcome.

 

(Power wheels ROcker switches)
Your Welcome.

The issue isn't finding a means of quick-disconnecting the big sub when he pulls it out...
The iussue is that he wants to be able to switch the factory sub back on, when he pulls out the big sub.

What the OP needs is a DPDT switch, with a separate set of contacts for each speaker (non shared neutral)
Something like this:

Amazon.com: WINOMO Heavy Duty Toggle Switch Flick ON/OFF/ON Car Dash 12V DPDT with Waterproof Cap : Automotive

Buy WINOMO Heavy Duty Toggle Switch Flick ON/OFF/ON Car Dash 12V DPDT with Waterproof Cap: Toggle - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I think this is what I want to do. I want to run a pair of speaker wires from the sub "speaker" outputs on the 5 channel amp. These would run where they are going now, to the left rear cargo area wall where the factory sub is. I want to cut in and make a fork in the circuit there. One pair going to the factory sub, and one pair going to a set of speaker jacks on the wall panel there. I need to switch these two in or out. Preferably a way to make "A" in or "B" in or "none" in. "A" would be the OEM sub and "B" would be the enclosed "Big" sub in the cargo bay area. I can make presets on the AMP DSP that are quick switched for each sub layout. Looks like the Rocker switch type thing would work.

This gives me the ability to use the OEM sub as a better than nothing arrangement when I need the cargo area for cargo. I am also upgrading the OEM sub...

 

If you’re going to pull out the large sub anyway, why don’t you just use speaker quick disconnects?

XT60, XT90, Deans, Anderson’s. Pretty much any of the RC car battery quick disconnects should work for you and be more reliable than a switcher.

 

Quicker and safer imo.

 

Then that’s not really a speaker switcher but an input/signal switcher prior to the amps?

 

Again, If you want to do A/B and Off? And they can do 20 Amps DC without breaking a sweat? 3 of them wired in the correct way will give you A/B/Off. The only thing better is to use 40 Amp Relays to do the switching. Making your own speaker selector switch.

If you want remote, just use the Bluetooth Remote relay Box, ($4-15 for up to 24 wireless circuits) have it trigger the 40,50 or even 80 amp relays if you want to run Big power. (The ones with the LARGE spade) And I can't imagine or more elegant solution with more flexibility.

The signal path is short. Wires are clean, and being able to control it from any tablet or making board to some tiny "pushpinns" in the front is just a no brainier if your want to go that far.

Its really easy to do. All the software library's are all right here. Just Plug play, download the code and you can be up and running in a matter of hours.

 

Again, If you want to do A/B and Off? And they can do 20 Amps DC without breaking a sweat? 3 of them wired in the correct way will give you A/B/Off. The only thing better is to use 40 Amp Relays to do the switching. Making your own speaker selector switch.

If you want remote, just use the Bluetooth Remote relay Box, ($4-15 for up to 24 wireless circuits) have it trigger the 40,50 or even 80 amp relays if you want to run Big power. (The ones with the LARGE spade) And I can't imagine or more elegant solution with more flexibility.

The signal path is short. Wires are clean, and being able to control it from any tablet or making board to some tiny "pushpinns" in the front is just a no brainier if your want to go that far.

Its really easy to do. All the software library's are all right here. Just Plug play, download the code and you can be up and running in a matter of hours.

I'm not following ya at all. I just need to switch 2 wires into 4 two at a time. No electronics, no relays, none of that. I think the DPDT toggle is what I want. 95% of the time I will be on Sub "B" which will be an enclosed sub in my cargo bay. But when I want to go someplace with a cooler, a dog cage, and some suitcases in the back, I need to run on the sub in the wall.

I just want to hit a switch, unplug the sub in the cargo bay, pull it out, and haul... That's it.

Now if someone knows of a little niche that will hold some banana jacks and a Rocker switch, send me the link!

 

Just noting for future searchers, yes you want a DPDT - double pole double throw. So wires come into the center, but then wires leave from the top to one sub when flipped up and the other sub when flipped down.

I did the exact same thing in my LandCruiser for the same reason… but both subs were DVC, so double the wires. Look at this mess! Works as intended, but really, not worth the effort, as the aftermarket speakers in front door carry enough to not make the small factory sub size, even upgraded, worth it.