What's wrong with the current box in terms of it's sound?

 

Edit: sorry, you replied before I got mine sent. Lol

X2^^^
Were you not satisfied with the sound of the prefab? Or is the main issue that it's not custom?

Only way to know, is to model the sub in different enclosures and see what looks best. But if your concerned with sq, but still want output... Have you thought about multiple subs, more power, or better yet, look into IB. Then you don't have to worry about the box. It's more efficient, so you don't need as much power.. gets low, and can sound wonderful.

Have no idea if your sub would be a good candidate for IB or not thought. Depends on it's specs.

 

It's boomy. I had an Orion HCCA subwoofer before and this subwoofer is suffering from similar problems. Sounds a lot better (less farting) but still get that overall boomy bass.

Basically they call for 2 cubic feet for a ported box on the G5, while this one is only 1.8.

 

Yeah I should have mentioned that, considering that's pretty important to my question. I am definitely unhappy with the way the bass sounds, it sounds too boomy to me.

Multiple subs is an option if I can find another G5 (they are discontinued now). More power could happen, I am running my G5 at 8 ohms which means it's getting around 1000 watts RMS from the amp. I could switch it over to 2 ohms and give it 2300 watts, but in this case I don't think that's going to change anything because I can overexcurt the sub with it running at 8ohms.

As far as IB goes, I sure would love to do that but I don't think I have the right environment for it. The rear dash where the sub would have to go is pretty flimsy and would require a lot of reinforcement to make it useable. But, that's ultimately what I'd like to do if I end up keeping the car for a long time.

Thanks for your input guys. I appreciate it

Oh and just in case I have the perfect subwoofer for IB, here are its specs:

Fs - 28.88
Qms - 9.93
Qes - 0.49
Qts - 0.47
Vas (Liters) - 75.28
Mms (Grams) - 148.5
Cms (uM/Newton) - 215
Xmax (Mm) - 15.0
Xmech (Mm) - 45.0
Sd (Cm2) - 499
Bi (Tesla-M) - 18.30
SPL Eff (dB @ 1w/1m) - 87.2
SPL Sen (dB @ 2.83v) - 88.3 (in parellel it's 94.3)

Not sure what a lot of these parameters mean but if you can tell me if it's good for IB or not, that may start a very interesting project.

 

Ported boxes have the benefit of efficiency and low end extension, but group delay spikes around the tuning frequency, and the sound coming from the port is 90° out of phase from the sound coming from the sub.

I went from sealed to ported, and didn't notice any loss in SQ (I gained some). Not all subs respond well though to ported. Model up your sub and see how it is. Some subs are designed for ported, some are designed for sealed, and some are designed for IB. Its best to pick the enclosure that best suits your sub.

 

That's great insight, thank you.

I suppose you are right that some subs are designed for specific enclosures. It would be like designing a SQL subwoofer - not going to happen without compromise.

Edit:

Well I just looked it up. On Crutchfield's description it says the subwoofer is optimized for sealed box output. Considering sealed boxes need larger xmaxes for output, that makes sense.

Well then, that looks like it answers my question!

 

Boomy sub, IB would be my choice-but you'll be xmax limited to 300w, assuming 3x VAS modeling

Ported, recommended volume, you'll be xmax limited at around 675w on 33Hz tuning, lower the tuning and it'll take even less power.

Sealed I'd go for a smaller volume, 0.729cf, will still give a hump centred at 60Hz, but should blend in with cabin gain better

 

Maybe I am missing your points here but..
you say it requires 2.0 cu for ported.. and you have it in a 1.8 Cu sealed... From what I can tell your sub requires 1 Cu. Putting a sub in a box that is almost 100% too large will make it respond poorly. From my research I think you would get a spike fairly high in the Frequency range and a drop towards the bottom. Also your power handling goes way down too... regardless it is not good for the sub.

Furthermore I wonder what amp you are using (don't think you mentioned). I question if you are actually doing 1k watts at 8 ohms. This means you would be doing roughly 2k watts at 4 ohms and 4k at 2 ohms (typical amp response). This would be a BEAST of an amp.

 

I see in your sig you do have a BEAST of an amp...
your Alpine MRP2000
1500 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 200 Hz - THD 1.0% - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s) ¦ 2000 Watt - 2 Ohm - 20 - 200 Hz - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s)


If you are doing your dual 4ohm sub at 8 ohms you are probably getting 700 or so watts... if you are doing it at 2 ohm you are feeding it 2k watts. Not sure if that amp likes an 8 ohm load or not, most amps are fine at 8 ohm but some don't like it. Also your sub only wants 500 watts rms or so... I hope you gain is set WAY low.

This a guess but it seems you have a sub in a way too large box and feeding it way too much power and wondering why your base is boomy. My advice.. with that amp... get one more G5 Wire the pair to a 4 ohm load, put them in the correct size sealed box... that will fill your car with base, and sound pretty good.

 

Jeez I need to give out all the info before I post my questions LOL

Sorry, I actually didn't specify if my pre-made box I have is vented or sealed.. or maybe I did, but in any case it is ported. Damn I feel silly now. I apologize for wasting your time there, pat_smith1969.

As for the amp, yes it is a beast. It has 180 amps of fusing on it! Also the birth certificate for this particular amp said it was actually putting out 2300 at 2 ohms. Crazy huh?? I'm glad I picked it up

For the gain, I always turn it down to zero and then slowly turn it up so that way I never end up going too hard on the sub. It's set to less then nominal. Also more power is good anyways, and these G5's are known to take it (like HCCA's, they are under-rated).

Here's some more info as well, the recommended spec to build a sealed box for this sub is 1 cubic foot. Should I stick to manufacturers specs? I'm not sure if I should or not, because I don't know what environment that was designed in. I'm leaning towards coming up with my own measurements, but I'm a newb at that too so I may get better results from the manufacturers specs. Then again maybe my custom guy knows something..

Anywho, if you have any expertise in box size I'd be all ears. Do you also think two subs will be necessary? I want to do this right the first time and money is not a problem. Finding another G5 might be tough but well, hey I can do it.

 

Personally... I always felt like the engineers who built the sub know more about subs than I do, so I always stick to the recomendation. Makes life simpler too.. if it says "stick it in a 1 cube sealed box" then that is what I do.

I know others will map out the response in software based on the subs parameters, and there is nothing wrong with that either. It is just more than what I care to do.

Still, if it was me and I wanted more, better base.. I would pick up a second and plop them in a sealed enclosure wired to 4 ohms. If those two subs sealed or ported, don't fill your car with a TON of base... then you are driving something requiring a comercial drivers license and probably has 18 wheels.

 

Personally... I always felt like the engineers who built the sub know more about subs than I do, so I always stick to the recomendation. Makes life simpler too.. if it says "stick it in a 1 cube sealed box" then that is what I do.

I know others will map out the response in software based on the subs parameters, and there is nothing wrong with that either. It is just more than what I care to do.

They may well know more about subs than you-but they have no idea what car you are putting it in. The recommended boxes are ALWAYS a compromise, and without modeling a sub you don't know what area they have compromised. So they could have compromised extension for extra output when you want extension or vice-versa.

Just because you don't care it doesn't mean you should be advocating your "technique" or lack of.

That's what I've always thought, too. They even show the measurements of the frequency response curve in the enclosure they recommend. Now of course that can change based on the environment but still, good information to have.

I can show you that with some quick and easy modeling, the enclosure these "experts" recommend is going to sound boomy, but hey that's what they recommend

Well if I can't find a second G5 then I will have to settle with one, but I definitely have the means for running two of these suckers. I always thought running two would reduce SQ but I guess that again depends on the box.

So much to learn in so little time, haha!

Thanks for your time pat_smith1969 I appreciate it.

If one doesn't suit your SQ tastes how is doubling them up going to help?

 

That's what I've always thought, too. They even show the measurements of the frequency response curve in the enclosure they recommend. Now of course that can change based on the environment but still, good information to have.

Well if I can't find a second G5 then I will have to settle with one, but I definitely have the means for running two of these suckers. I always thought running two would reduce SQ but I guess that again depends on the box.

So much to learn in so little time, haha!

Thanks for your time pat_smith1969 I appreciate it.

 

Here's your sub modeled in:
Orange BA recommended 2cf ported 4" dia 14" long vent
Blue 0.729cf sealed
Red IB (3x VAS)
Green BA recommended sealed 1cf

As you can see the recommended vented enclosure gives you a huge peak at 50Hz.

The sealed enclosures still give you a hump, though much smaller it's still 3dB @ 50-60Hz

The IB solution gives you the flatest response with only a 1.5dB hump, at around 40Hz

Just to give you an idea what cabin gain can do to your sub's response when fitted in your car I've also factored in the gain from my car on the 2nd pic-this will be completely different to your car-my car is a Mini.

 

Baron,
I just don't get why you have such a crappy attitude towards me. Honestly you are being a total butt head. At no time did I say I was an expert and my comments lead to the contrary. I was just sharing my opinion and experience, and presented my posts as such.

I get that you are in disagreement with my posts, and that is cool. I even agree with your statements. I never said my way of doing things was the ONLY way... just said that is what I would do.

To answer your question, since reading is not your strong suit, I recommended a SEALED enclosure over his current ported (one that meets manufacturer specs). Also, he expressed concerns that his one driver didn't have enough output... thus getting a second sub and putting them both in a sealed will help with his issues.

 

1: All I stated was this: "Just because you don't care it doesn't mean you should be advocating your "technique" or lack of." How that translates to me having a crappy attitude to you and being a butt head I don't know. I'm not here for a fight, just to help people and learn for myself.

2: When I used "experts" in the post above I was refering to BA's engineers, not you, as your delusions of grandeur assume.

3. "To answer your question, since reading is not your strong suit, I recommended a SEALED enclosure" It was a rhetorical question, to the OP and not you-maybe reading isn't your strong point...