DIYMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

Please recommend a 4 or 3 inch midrange driver

34K views 56 replies 20 participants last post by  OSN  
#1 ·
Hello all,

I was wanting to get some recommendations on a new mid range driver for a three way set up. I plan on mounting these drivers on the a pillar with the tweeter above them. I have the peerless SLS 6.5 inch mid bass drivers that will be mounted in the door and the vifa ring radiators tweeters from the alpine type x set.

I like to listen to my music rather loudly most of the time and I have a 12w7 so i need some mids that can keep up volume wise. They will be powered from two channels of a JL 300/4. I have a pxa h700 so eq and crossover points should not be an issue. Would prefer something that is not super deep for mounting issues.

I was looking at some drivers at part-express. These tang bands:

Tang Band W4-1337SD 4" Titanium Driver | Parts-Express.com

or the bamboo cones

Tang Band W4-1320SJ 4" Bamboo Cone Driver | Parts-Express.com

or these daytons which are 4 ohm

Dayton RS100T-8 4" Reference Woofer Truncated Frame | Parts-Express.com

Or are there others i should be looking at? Most of these are 8ohm which would mean i would only have about 38watts to push them. Will they still play loud enough to keep up with the rest of my system?
 
#4 · (Edited)
I like to listen to my music rather loudly most of the time and I have a 12w7 so i need some mids that can keep up volume wise.
Not knowing much else about your system I stand by my recommendation. No mention of crossover points? 4" can be done in the A-Pillar, but there are some great 3's out there that will fit much better. Read up on them-- There is alot more to them than just price. They are perfect size for A-Pillar installs, can take healthy amounts of power and sound pretty damn good doing it. Perhaps look at the Founteks?
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
I currently run FR88ex's in my setup
I had the fr89ex's in there, and 10f's sitting around too!

the 10f by far sounds the best for pure mid range out of those 3 imho
full range, go the fr88ex over the other 2

managed to hear a TB w3 (bamboo cone?) the other week, and I much prefer that over the fr88ex
it sounded more natural to me and still was able to play full range with no issues

I think the fr88ex would sound great too, but would require a little more work with the EQ to get it sounding better (in my setup anyway) where as the TB was installed in the same place, and did the job better (I have them mounted in the pillars)

now im going to try and squeeze a 12m into the pillars :p
 
#8 ·
I would agree that the Fountek (specifically the FR89EX 4-ohm) would be a good choice; it's my next midrange driver for my upcoming "stage-2" install. This speaker has been reviewed by Zaph Audio and he considers it one of the best 3" drivers available.

Zaph|Audio

The FAITAL looks pretty interesting as well.
 
#9 ·
I would agree that the Fountek (specifically the FR89EX 4-ohm) would be a good choice; it's my next midrange driver for my upcoming "stage-2" install. This speaker has been reviewed by Zaph Audio and he considers it one of the best 3" drivers available.
In the review he calls the aluminum cone "fragile," but he gives the build quality 5 stars. Would this be a bad choice for a dash install due to the rigors of constant sun exposure?
 
#17 ·
I maybe wrong, but im sure I have read somewhere on this site, that 8 ohm drivers have a higher sensitivity, if someone could confirm or correct me? Id like to know for sure myself :)

Im running 8 ohm fr88ex's and they are fine, they keep up with my midbass and tweeters.

I've had to obviously lower the levels on the tweeters and midbass to compensate, but can still listen to music at moderate to high volume with no issues, just like any other system Ive owned.
 
#21 ·
Your not getting many answers, so I'll throw my 2-cents in...
I know Dynaudio is a fantastic driver manufacturer, but I wouldn't. I say this because almost inevitably, even the great manufacturers are forced to comply with the automaker's restrictions and price points when they do a system. They get more for the name than for the product if that makes sense. Probably not the same quality as an off the shelf Dyn midrange from a distributor. Plus you don't have any specs to work with.

I maybe wrong, but im sure I have read somewhere on this site, that 8 ohm drivers have a higher sensitivity, if someone could confirm or correct me? Id like to know for sure myself :)

Im running 8 ohm fr88ex's and they are fine, they keep up with my midbass and tweeters.

I've had to obviously lower the levels on the tweeters and midbass to compensate, but can still listen to music at moderate to high volume with no issues, just like any other system Ive owned.
You gain 3db when you halve impedence, ie from 16-to-8, or from 8-to-4, or 4-to-2. And visa-versa, you lose 3db when doubled. So if your amp puts out 10 watts at 4 ohms, and you replace that speaker with an 8-ohm unit you will lose about half of your output volume. BAD.
On the other hand, if you go from 8-ohm system speakers to a 4-ohm, you get more output, GOOD, but you might fry the amp from heat as it is designed to push 8-ohms (an "easier" load).
(If you have a 200w/ch amp and are looking at speakers that handle 80watts nominal, it doesn't really matter due to the fact that you've got so much power to spare/compensate).
Efficiency is not really ohm-dependent, more an individual speaker thing. However, the larger the (cone) speaker, normally the higher the numbers go (better, more efficient).

Most home sytems are designed for 8-ohms, most mobile designed for 4-ohms, with subs going down to 2 and even 1 ohm with the right amps.

Has anyone used the dynaudio dome mids that are from the volvo system? I was thinking about those or the fountek FR89ex? Which would you choose and why?
Since you can't hear either, it's always a crap shoot. BUT, you ccan look at the specs for the FR89 and know how low you can cross it, how much it will put out per watt of power (efficiency), and what the off-axis response looks like. Many other specs as well. With the Dyn, you know nothing and it will probably be hard to find the info.
 
#20 ·
Why not look into Mark Audio or Creative Sound? I will be running a pair of 4" Mark Audio drivers and for $40 each on clearance :) Well you get the rest. I have not heard them, but for diy home audio those two names are always mentioned!!!
 
#22 ·
^^^^^^^
Also check the sensitivity rating, is it 2.83v/1m or 1watt/1meter.
2.83v/1meter is the equivalent of two watts or 3db.
 
#23 ·
If you own a big car or truck, the scans are a nice option.
I you can not fit a 4 with it enclosure, the TB W3 bamboos are one of the best/easiest sounding speakers around. Cheap and beatifull sounding. (yes they sound loud at the pillars or dash, no very low xo points).
 
#27 ·
The info. radarcontact posted is a valid statement as to halving the ohm load and doubling the power, with a few exceptions.
 
#29 ·
I found another seller with 2 of the dynaudio mids he said he would sell me the pair for 100 shipped. That seems like a hell of a deal for those right? Can someone tell me how low the dyns could be crossed over? Can I cross them low enough to use with my SLS midbass?
 
#31 ·
To you guys who have heard the fr88's and 89's, which one did you prefer and why? And if anyone has heard the w-3's compared to w-4's? And if you've heard all of them do u have a favorite?

I want to try tweeterless just to see if I like it.

(sorry to thread jack but ive been looking for the same thing as him and I think these answers will help him too)

Thanks
 
#32 · (Edited)
Yes I own the fr88ex's and fr89ex's and did a quick comparison with a W3 and a fr88ex in my car.

my favourite personally would have to be the W3, I just prefered the sound of it over the founteks, vocals just sounded more natural, just nicer sounding tonally.

I also liked the sound of the FR89ex, however the way I had it installed did not help out very well, and IMHO i think the 88 is much better if you plan to go full range over the 89.
the W3 plays full range as well. I think if you do plan to go tweeterless, regardless of which mid you pick, you would want both to be more on axis IMHO.

this is just my opinion.. I suppose it depends on your listening tastes

as recommended from other threads, if you can why not buy them all, test them out and sell off the ones you dont like?


Also just saw your Sig, Im about to sell my XXX's and replace them with the Rev 18w's
after hearing the rev's in the doors, theres no way Im going back to the XXX's :D
 
#33 ·
I own a pair of FR89s and they are better drivers than the W3s but... the W3 sounds sweet out of the box!!!!! There are not many drivers so easy to use than these!
You can not go wrong with these babys!!

Try this out:
Start a new thread: What's wrong with the W3's at the pillars? and take note.
 
#34 ·
#35 ·
These will meet and exceed all your expectations and fall into your stated budget.

CDT Audio ES-04

Shop CDT Audio - ES-04


Diameter: 4” (110mm)
Sensitivity: 90.6 dB
Power Handling: 50 Wrms (90W pk)
Frequency Response: 50 ~ 7000 hZ
Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms
Voice Coil Diameter: 1.0” (26mm)
Dimensions:
Thiele-Small Paramters
Free Air Resonance: 52.2 Hz
Voice Coil DC Resistance: 3.3 ohms
Voice Coil Inductance @ 1 kHz: 0.17 mH
Mechanical Q (Qms): 3.51
Electrical Q (Qes): 0.29
Total Q (Qts): 0.27
Compliance Volume (Vas): 7.52 l
0.265 ft3
Moving mass, Diaphragm: 5.42Gr
Driver Radiating Area (Sd):58 cM2
8.99 In2
Motor Force Factor: 4.58 Tm