You could also run just the power wire around the back of the amp, and the ground the short way.

As long as the power wire is not touching, or too close to the rcas, you shouldn't have any noise.

 

Oh, and if the amp will take a 0 gauge why not run just that... Maybe it's slightly overkill, but that's better than underkill (is that even a word?).

 

What is to the right of the helix? Can you swap the two boxes?

 

I would keep the power and ground together, and I would run them straight.

 

Have you thought about drilling through the amp board and running the power and ground underneath?

 

@SQ_Bronco Below is a pic of the board before i took it apart, to the right is a Kicker Keyloc. @DaveG the board sits on top of the spare tire and as such I can't run wires under the board. A little explanation of how things are running in the car might help. Power is coming from the drivers side of the car via an old school AudioQuest 0 ga wire i only had a limited run of wire and where you see it coming into the power block is as long as I have. Ground Blue 0 ga is from the center of the back seat area to a seat attachment bolt where the center folding seat hinge mounts Since I'm using the stock head unit I'm using speed wire to the back down the passenger side which you can see in the bottom most terminal strip. Wires to the front are also on terminal strips above and also use speed wire to the front one on each side.

As the power wire length is limited I have to keep it pretty much where it is. I already have the short RCA's and would hate to spend more money but if I have to then so be it.I think the above layout would work but obviously not set in stone. If I recall having the RCA perpendicular to the power wire should eliminate any noise and as the RCA are twisted pair that should also help with noise rejection.The out put of the Keyloc would go straight into the Helix with one of the short RCA's which is why its were it's at. To the right of the LC6-1200 is a Pioneer GM-D9701 the power connections are on the bottom edge and input/controls on the top edge. This allows access to the gain and short run of RCA as the bottom edge of the board is up against the back wall of the spare tire well.

Thanks for the interest and I am open to suggestions. I will be probably covering the StarBoard with carpet to cover the previous holes etc, and I've got a shipment of TechFlex to cover and protect wiring.

 

@SQ_Bronco Below is a pic of the board before i took it apart, to the right is a Kicker Keyloc. @DaveG the board sits on top of the spare tire and as such I can't run wires under the board. A little explanation of how things are running in the car might help. Power is coming from the drivers side of the car via an old school AudioQuest 0 ga wire i only had a limited run of wire and where you see it coming into the power block is as long as I have. Ground Blue 0 ga is from the center of the back seat area to a seat attachment bolt where the center folding seat hinge mounts Since I'm using the stock head unit I'm using speed wire to the back down the passenger side which you can see in the bottom most terminal strip. Wires to the front are also on terminal strips above and also use speed wire to the front one on each side.

As the power wire length is limited I have to keep it pretty much where it is. I already have the short RCA's and would hate to spend more money but if I have to then so be it.I think the above layout would work but obviously not set in stone. If I recall having the RCA perpendicular to the power wire should eliminate any noise and as the RCA are twisted pair that should also help with noise rejection.The out put of the Keyloc would go straight into the Helix with one of the short RCA's which is why its were it's at. To the right of the LC6-1200 is a Pioneer GM-D9701 the power connections are on the bottom edge and input/controls on the top edge. This allows access to the gain and short run of RCA as the bottom edge of the board is up against the back wall of the spare tire well.

Thanks for the interest and I am open to suggestions. I will be probably covering the StarBoard with carpet to cover the previous holes etc, and I've got a shipment of TechFlex to cover and protect wiring.

What’s wrong with the way you have it in this picture?

 

My money says go ahead and make the connections without any concern about running the power wires beside the signal wiring at the amp rack. Only bother changing it if you actually find that it creates an issue. In a perfect world you keep all things separate as part of the planning stage, but in reality more often than not you could run the power and signal cabling side by side from front to back and still not actually have an issue. If you are planning to compete with this car, that changes the landscape ... you will need to route them the long way around

 

Lol, definitely not competing! I remember reading that differential (twisted pair) connections help to eliminate noise intrusion and as everything i have is that type of RCA i should be ok running it perpendicular to each other. Just wanna get opinions on the situation

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Twisted will not protect from noise if the RCA is touching the power wire... A well insulated RCA would protect from noise in that scenario. Obviously, there is very little protection where the power wire and RCA will be crossing. Like I said earlier, if you keep them from touching there shouldn't be any noise... I have crossed RCA and large power wires many times like that.

 

As a rule of thumb. If you need to route power wires near signal wires cross them at 90 degree angles with each other to minimize the chance of cross-talk between them.

Oh, and also. I would not use red wire for both power and ground. Too easy to mix them up and cause big issues. I know, I know. I was just kidding

Ge0

 

ga.

The wire connection points in your diagram show the power and ground are not fused at the distribution block. Is that on purpose and why not run a fused 4ga wire for that short distance?

 

Oh sh!t. Good point. His distro block has 4 fused taps but he is not using them in his diagram. He's taping off the power input side that is hopefully fused back at the battery.

Ge0

 

@DavidRam @NW JLUR @Ge0 ,Hi guys! Ok let me see if i can clarify a couple things. The reason both wires in that picture are red is because I was too damn lazy to change the paint brush color [emoji16]! LOL anyways, I agree with the 90⁰ placement, i would try not to have them touching at all. Now as far as fuses, I've got my main fuse next to the battery. Both amps have fuses and the pioneer will definitely be supplied by one of the 4 4ga fuse outputs. The LC 6.1200 as it's a run of a foot and the amp has its own fuses i would think that's fine, but (and that's a big but) that's only if i run a 0ga to it. Not sure if that short a run (less than 3ft) would have a difference between 4 and 0 ga. If i do run the 4 ga I'll go the long way around the bottom edge and not cross the RCA at all. Something like the picture below. To sum it up, if you guys think it's worth running a 0 ga to the LC then i have no fuse between the block and the amp (about a foot) and have to cross the RCA, if not I'll run 4 ga to reach amp fused by the distro block and not cross RCA at all. If anyone has another locations option please feel free.

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deleted.

 

what I would do in your situation is build a 3" long "tunnel" over the RCA wires with scrap wood or mdf and then run the power wires crossing OVER the tunnel...that way they would never directly touch each other. O, if you wanted you could keep it even simpler by attaching a pice of wood that was taller then the wires, running next to them, and once again cross hte power wires over the wood.

 

OMG. Are we still on this topic? Problem solved:

10 Audiophile Cable Elevators Lifts Isolators based on Cardas Multiblocks | eBay

I hand make these based on the Cardas Multi blocks. Cardas ones also fell over very easily (only 1" thick vs. 1 3/16" for mine), especially on carpet. Their slots were small and not good for any thick cords (especially power cords).

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FYI. None of this sh!t is needed. You're over thinking the topic. Just cross the power cables at a 90deg angle from the signal and call it a day. Lift the power cables or signal cables if you wish. It really ain't going to make that much of a difference.

Ge0

 

Come on Ge0. That will not do. You don’t go with wooden cable elevators, they must be made out of unobtainium. That’s the only proper way to lift the cables out of the floor’s electromagnetic interference.

But I agree, 90 degrees and call it a day. This is a common challenge with an easy solution.

 

You can buy some fancy polished rocks for $10K. I thought I'd try to save him a few bucks

Ge0

 

In reality one could usually run the RCAs alongside the power and ground is the power and ground were near each other, and still not have problems.
(So the 90 degrees is even better.)

 

Si this is what i came up with. The forum member i got the Helix from was nice enough to include some extra RCA's that i completely forgot i had. They're a little longer than mine so a was able to lay it out similar to what i had before without having to worry about power and signal crossing each other. It's not perfect but I think it'll do. Spruced it up a bit with some tech flex i got.

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Ding ding ding! Looks good, man

 

Thanks! Wish I'd remembered those RCA's before, would have saved me some time and gray hair! Now, don't know which RCA I'd actually better but at that length i can't imagine it matters. Stinger 4000 vs NVX [emoji848] LOL. Now to put it back in the car and start the process all over again.

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