Set Smoothing to 1/3 or Variable, then choose Target level.

Also, change the EQ windows Axis. Bottom is currently at 44, Top is 82. Change the setting so Bottom is around 30, and Top is around 70. You will want to EQ at least -24db down on HighPass downslope from your tweeters. Which means if you choose a Target level of 62, you will want to EQ down to level of 38. (62-24=38).

When you make the changes I suggested, you may find that the XO freq of 170hz will not work, you will need to bump XO up a bit..... 180 or 200 or higher

 

Set Smoothing to 1/3 or Variable, then choose Target level.

Also, change the EQ windows Axis. Bottom is currently at 44, Top is 82. Change the setting so Bottom is around 30, and Top is around 70. You will want to EQ at least -24db down on HighPass downslope from your tweeters. Which means if you choose a Target level of 62, you will want to EQ down to level of 38. (62-24=38).

When you make the changes I suggested, you may find that the XO freq of 170hz will not work, you will need to bump XO up a bit..... 180 or 200 or higher

see below

Never tried to rise HP on midrange to more than 170hz. I may be wrong but I think larger gap between midrange and underseat woofers would create dip at crossover point as woofers dont response well above 125hz. Unless Im wrong? ....

Below you can see what Ive managed to achieve.

Woofer LP 125hz
MID 170

On woofers ive changed phase angle to 112.5 otherwise there would be big narrow dip at XO point

I am a beginner and not sure if I eq right like if I dont cut too much reducing the volume Ive been listening music on that settings for a while and sounds OK but female vocals are bit irritating and overwhelming. If I knew where to set target level on each midrange it would give me lots of idea how to eq it.

Any advice appreciated

 

Does your DSP have gain control per speaker? If yes, than Target level of 62 for Left speaker looks about right. Drop the Target level about 1db on Right. After you EQ, then adjust to match level between Left tweet and Right Tweet using speaker gain control in DSP.

Try electrical Butterworth 18 db slope on HP on 4" Mid-base, also use Butterworth 18 db slope on LP on subs in your DSP, but continue to use LR 24 in REW. Its perfectly fine to use any combination of electrical Crossovers to achieve an acoustical LR24 curve. (well almost any combo, you don't want to use a 6db HP electrical slope on your 4" mids)

Your speaker has an fs of 140hz, so a setting of 170hz is a little on the low side, so after taking a measurement using the BW 18 slopes, see if you can raise the HP on 4".

Reset your Subs phase back to 0. Then check phase after you EQ using different XO's, and adjust as needed. I would try a Polarity flip on Subs first, before using the phase slider.

Raise the Subs LP....

 

Thanks for your reply

yes it does, It is Match up7bmw


on attached pics it is a measurement taken using electrical BW 12db on mids and subs (match 2 ohm underseat subs). I will try to get to 200hz on mids. I get buzzing noise in mids, most noticeably when I speaker play low voice (especially when I put volume up when someone speak to me on BT phone) it is maybe due to HP on mids set too low which causes mids to buzz at higher volume.

Appreciate your help, Ill try the way your told me

 

I've found that if female voices are a bit overwhelming, you need to double/triple check the distance from speakers to your listening position. Take some string and tape it to the ceiling of your car. (put a nut on the end to straighten) Line it up so the nut would be in the center of your head, like between your ears in the middle of your skull. Then tape measure distance from speaker to the nut and enter distances into DSP.

 

Ive done all that, my dsp software can automatically do time alignment by placing mic in listening possition. Then I play test tone and it enters values itself. Can also do manually.
I was convinced it is caused my dips and spikes on my final graph above

 

I didnt know you were currently using BW12's..... I thought you were using LR24's.

BW12 on your 4" mids at 170hz is really pushing them to their limits. You may need to add a pair of 6.5inch mid-base, and go full active 3-way plus Sub system......

 

Sorry, I should have mention it. Electrical BW12db , LR24 Acoustical.
Yeah I can imagine that buzzing noise indicates that they are begging for mercy.

 

I have a Helix also,I had the overwhelming voice problem using the ATM, then I re-measured with tape and string and much much better results.

 

Right I get it, I may be wrong but I think it is something to do with them peaks and dips in midrange (see pic with the full front response). I get nice center image to be fair

 

I don't see anything obvious in that full front response graph that would indicate too much voice. It's not that bad of a full response, and your system should sound at least decent.....

Yeah, I had a strong center image, ... actually, it was too strong, like to much music/voice coming from dead center of dash from the ATM tune. Then, I re-measured using a tape measure and string. I didn't change any EQ at all, but it sounded so much better. The overall balance and tone of the system was improved, with less dead center volume, and more Left-Center and Right Center volume...

 

One last thing, should I eq the mid using 1/48 resolution ? what to do with them narror dips? shall i boost 1.2kHz too?

 

Only use 1/48 for taking a measurement, and for tuning Subs. The best setting is actually the "Var" setting. It auto-smooths the response. Basically 1/12th for lower freq's, 1/6th for Mid freq, and 1/3rd for high freqs. The Var will auto-smooth to that. John Mulcahy is the guy who wrote the REW program recommends using the 'Var' for RTA pink noise measurements.

 

Its best to lower the Target level, so you dont need to boost EQ. But a small boost of 1 to 2db is okay..... If you need to boost more than 2db, then you would need to build those boosts into the "System Gain structure".....

 

Thank you, I will go to the car tomorrow and re do it all by raising HP to 200hz on mids and LP on subs. Ill come back here once finished.

 

Those very narrow dips are not worth the EQ band to adjust....