So I do not have objective measurements on these products, but here is my opinion. The foam rings work. The silicone baffles are snake oil.

Basically, the silicone ones do not fit flush to the grilles. The foam does.

The silicone around the back can cause additional heat on your speaker. The foam can't.

They claim the silicone can reduce vibration by acting as a gasket. If this is a problem, tighten down your speakers more. View attachment 408803
View attachment 408802

Every door is different, and the silicone rings increasing heat is a bit far fetched

You want people to tighten down the speakers yet those screws you used would crack the frame if you tightened them too much.

 

Here, specifically compares the 2 and explains why one is better than the other. I like foam rings better purely because you will get a better seal with the door and they won't choke off the driver like the silicone baffles will.

 

The foam, while minimizing leakage doesn't bounce (reflect) everything around either.

 

Those resonix foams are nice. But I've had ZERO issues with the NVX silicon baffles. Like stated above every door is different. Mine mate to the door card properly and don't choke off the sound or cause any anomalies in my response. They don't rattle and I don't have to tighten them down crazy to get a seal.

I get that you like the other product, but starting a thread bashing something that didn't work for you is...... something else. There's plenty of ppl here using the NVXs with great results.

 

Those resonix foams are nice. But I've had ZERO issues with the NVX sylico baffles. Like stated above every door is different. Mine mate to the door card properly and don't choke off the sound or cause any anomalies in my response. They don't rattle and I don't have to tighten them down crazy to get a seal.

I get that you like the other product, but starting a thread bashing something that didn't work for you is...... something else. There's plenty of ppl here using the NVXs with great results.

View attachment 408813
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Yep, every door is different. My door card is a funky shape in that area, I doubt I would get a good seal. That and my drivers is only about 10mm or less from the door card. It's super close. And for the record, I don't have the ResoNix ones. Also, those mounting rings are🔥, but the filament needed serious drying.

 

Why not both? NVX and the Resonix CCF? Did I do my rear doors wrong? Lol

 

I actually had the NVX installed already. I took out some acoustic foam I had lying around from my sound room and cut a ring, added them to the NVX silicone rings and foam panels on the outer inside door panel adjacent to the back of the speaker, seems to help it a bit. Just figured, the best of both words...

 

@ItsonlyaHONDA I'm not bashing the product, I'm just saying that the ccf rings are better. I've had no problems with the silicone ones. I'm not ripping them out of my car just yet, and I tried them for a few weeks.

I do agree that it's pretty far fetched that they would cause overheating.

I posted the thread because I currently have both products installed, and I have another set of foam rings as well. I just figured I would try them since I was sent a free pair.

While every door is different, the ccf is always going to work bc doors are virtually never flat and they compress to fit any shape grille. The only way they wouldn't work is if there was a door where the grille was so far away from the speaker that the ccf isn't thick enough to couple them.

This is a product where if you're going to pay $15-20 for the silicone style from any of the companies that sell them, you're better off to buy ccf. There is a measurable difference with the ccf foam.

 

@ItsonlyaHONDA I'm not bashing the product, I'm just saying that the ccf rings are better. I've had no problems with the silicone ones. I'm not ripping them out of my car just yet, and I tried them for a few weeks.

I do agree that it's pretty far fetched that they would cause overheating. I stole that part from the video that @BobTheBirdTurd linked. I don't think that Nick is the type of person to lie about it, so I included that. He also told me in an email that he has taken various measurements using the silicone ones, and that they don't work.

I trust his testing, so I posted the thread because I currently have both products installed, and I have another set of foam rings as well. I just figured I would try them since I was sent a free pair.

While every door is different, the ccf is always going to work bc doors are virtually never flat and they compress to fit any shape grille. The only way they wouldn't work is if there was a door where the grille was so far away from the speaker that the ccf isn't thick enough to couple them.

This is a product where if you're going to pay $15-20 for the silicone style from any of the companies that sell them, you're better off to buy ccf. There is a measurable difference with the ccf foam.

Some use the silicone baffles to protect the driver from water. That is something the CCF rings cannot help with.

 

@iamkickingback i should have been more clear. I just wrote the above when I was in 15 min break at work so I didn't go into detail. I'm thinking about leaving the silicone rings and adding the ccf on the inside of the ring. There's plenty of room to do so.

In reality, all of this is probably kinda overkill for my rear speakers. I installed the ccf on the fronts from the beginning, and decided to put the silicone on the rear to try out even tho I had more rings.

Oh well, it gives me a reason to break out my new trim remover kit that I bought from Amazon for $6.

 

Here is a pic with both.

Anyone know how to get the tweeter grills back in place? 6.5” Focal Flax coaxial

 

@ZaphodForPresident hey man thanks for the pic. I really appreciate that confirming my idea to use both. Plus it's a tad easier to not have to remove them lol.

 

No problem 👍

 

Just use both 😂

 

I also use both. I do have the silicone on the back sides trimmed so it's more like a rain guard, which is the only reason I use them.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience. I had this question in the past and a lot of people are vehemently against the silicone and say if you do need them for water protection just cut out the bottom of the ring behind the speaker so only the top is covered.

 

Silicone will definitely cause a noticable amount of additional heat as any generated won't pass through as easily. Silicone is a high heat barrier.

Now I can't imagine the amount of heat generated from a speaker in a door being an issue.

Factory speakers don't usually end up damaged from water but most of us get rid of factory mounting or add speakers with more depth in doors which creates a need for more shielding.

 

That foam ring is pushing your speaker surround and limiting its ability to play as designed. When you push the door panel into place, it will further push the foam into the driver. You should use a piece of clear glass or plastic and push down on the foam to mimic your panel and see how much that foam will limit your driver.

 

So I do not have objective measurements on these products, but here is my opinion. The foam rings work. The silicone baffles are snake oil.

Basically, the silicone ones do not fit flush to the grilles. The foam does.

*My mistake, I apologize. I edited this part out.

They claim the silicone can reduce vibration by acting as a gasket. This could potentially be a benefit, but I think it's kinda unlikely. View attachment 408803
View attachment 408802

Check this out.

 

View attachment 409029

Check this out.

Interesting. I will check it sometime to see, but I can say that I have not noticed any performance degradation and I have had them installed for a couple months. Either way, thanks for pointing it out. That's the reason I like this forum and joined.

I would like to add that my factory door panels had a circular ring of plastic sticking out from the grille, but I had to trim that off of all 4 doors because it actually touched the aftermarket speakers, plus it likely would have made the rings fit poorly.

I did try the ring on one door and the other front door without the ring briefly for about 5 minutes, just switching the balance from L to R so I could see (subjectively not measured) if it made a difference. I then tried it without the door panel at all for a couple minutes just out of curiosity before I installed the foam on the right door.

It wasn't a night and day difference, but the ring did help enough that I could hear it. I do think that ideally I would make a custom door panel with MDF so I could have a more ideal speaker location, and this would especially help with my 3" mids that I currently have mounted right next to the 6.5" so I could have them mounted above the 6.5. Of course if I'm going to make such a modification, I think I would upgrade to an 8" mid-bass or even a 10" (like the Stevens audio that everyone loves). At that point, I'm in another rabbit hole where I would need to be fully active (I'm currently 3-way passive), and then I also feel like it would be best to sell the Recoil 3-way set as a complete set (I kept the original box and packaging for this reason).

The initial goal when I first started was simply to get a head unit with Bluetooth and hook up a sub. Mission accomplished. After that, the next goal was to upgrade all of the factory speakers and amplify them. Mission accomplished. Around the same time as this is when I found the Skar EVLs on Facebook marketplace for $300 (basically brand new), and I so sold the single kicker L5 I had for the $120 I paid for it, so another pretty good upgrade for $180 - I doubled my cone area, lowered my box tuning to 32 Hz, and was able to finally utilize all of my amps power at 1 ohm (the kicker was wired to 2). All of these initial goals are taking into consideration my factory electrical system, which is 100 amp alternator with standard lead acid battery.

If I bought what I really wanted, I would get 2 SQL 15s and build a nice ported box tuned even lower. I don't consider any of the gear I've bought so far to be permanent. However, everything is working quite well considering I have just over $1000 in total equipment cost so far.

I think what I'm going to do next is simply add a DSP with at least 10 channels out. I think what I should do initially is just leave everything else as is with the passive crossovers, so that way I can just upgrade one component and keep the cost down. It won't be much of an upgrade by itself except for having 31 EQ bands on all 4 corners, but then I can buy another 4 channel amp later and make the switch to fully active. I think what I will do is keep the blackbrick 100.4 I'm using now for the tweeters and mids, and get an even more powerful amp to run my rears and front mid-bass (180-250x4) This is an expensive hobby lol. Once I'm fully active, then I can look into getting better drivers than the Recoils I'm currently running possibly.

On the other hand, I'm pretty happy with everything for now, and I think that if I add another amplifier that I will likely be stressing my factory electrical, plus my amp rack design was built for 2 amps bc at the time I didn't think I'd ever want more lol. Of course, I suppose I could build a 2nd rack in the mirror image of the first... Ok I have to stop!! It's getting ridiculous lol.

I did check my voltage, and my battery was resting at 12.7v after sitting 8 hours at work. My charging voltage was 14.37v, and then I turned the AC on full and turned the headlights on brights and played a bass heavy song at the max volume I use and my voltage never dipped below 14.17v. I was very happy to see this. I checked it again bc the first time I checked the 9v battery in the multimeter was the crappy carbon zinc one that came with it and it had likely sat forever before I bought it ($7 from Sonic).

Considering I don't want to upgrade my electrical, perhaps i should just be happy with what I have lol. Without buying another 4 channel amp, I don't think that adding a DSP is worth it.

 

Sounds like Trump speech, lol. Let's talk about baffles.

 

Here's a picture of a rain guard I made for my baffles.

 

Don't choke off the back of the driver with a silicone baffle. I added a chamfer to prevent distortion.

 

Here is the TM8 with a built-in rain guard.

 

I had a car that had a really wet inner door. I tried everything, went to the silicone baffles on a 6x9 and that problem stopped! I noticed no sound difference.

 

...I do not have objective measurements on these products...

There is a measurable difference with the ccf foam.

Lol

...I'm not bashing the product...

The foam rings work. The silicone baffles are snake oil.

The silicone around the back can cause additional heat on your speaker. The foam can't.

I do agree that it's pretty far fetched that they would cause overheating.

🙄

Bro, get it together. Next time just link to the video or an article or something. I have a long overdue review and comparison of the ResoNix Rings coming, with some measurements. They are the best in my opinion, but not for any of the reasons you mentioned, and certainly not from comparing apples to oranges.

 

So my commuter it shakes, rattles, and rolls. Looking at the NVX baffles much like @ItsonlyaHONDA. I have already started the sound deadening process, question is would a combination of these baffles, on top of cutting boards (call it what you will) be overkill? If this is considered hijacking.. I apologize for my outburst!

 

The silicone baffles are not rigid. They fit around the driver and are mounted to a rigid baffle, IE: custom adapter like @ItsonlyaHONDA or one created out of an HDPE cutting board.

 

So my commuter it shakes, rattles, and rolls. Looking at the NVX baffles much like @ItsonlyaHONDA. I have already started the sound deadening process, question is would a combination of these baffles, on top of cutting boards (call it what you will) be overkill? If this is considered hijacking.. I apologize for my outburst!

The silicone baffles are not rigid. They fit around the driver and are mounted to a rigid baffle, IE: custom adapter like @ItsonlyaHONDA or one created out of an HDPE cutting board.

Guess who made those adapters for me...🙄🤣

 

 

Gotcha, so many different ways to do a thing, trying to land on the right thing. I wasn't sure if the baffle was mounted straight to the door or there was an intermediate piece. Sounds like I need to search Amazon, or... I can just wait for @ItsonlyaHONDA to get tired of my guessing.

 

I made the adapters for @ItsonlyaHONDA and he wanted to use the NVX silicone baffles, so designed the adapters to accommodate them. The NVX silicone baffles aren't always available necessary. Most don't use them, they instead opt to use CCF rings to seal off the front of the driver to the door panel.