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Now that could possibly explain why they are no longer around!!
Not the case. It's a brutal industry, like the restaurant business. Even the best products don't always survive (think Adcom car audio). Others just get eaten up by big mainstays or conglomerates. Elemental Designs made great amps, and speakers and hit the market with very rapid market growth. When they tried expanding into the entire US and international markets at the same time, they were hampered by ****ty distro partners who also represented several other brands that directly competed. Bad choices in distribution and support can kill a brand, no matter how hard they tried to do the right thing. Great support, great product, $hity distro, and investors, that killed them

As for the deadener, the particular product I referred to was excellent. Most of the failed use of ANY of this type of product comes down to improper installation, prep is everything!

I installed it in in several cars between 2005 and 2008 as you see in the picture from an install done in 2006. Never wilted, dried out, or peeled anywhere in the car. It brought the noise down by almost a full 10db. It was not inexpensive, on a par with Dyna-mat of the day.

No reason to hate on it or the company, it's not ResoNix, never claimed it was.
 
E-Dead was a rubber/asphalt mix, which never performed well, compare to actual butyl products. It also had a very thin constraining layer, which doesn't help performance. Lastly, I've heard of many people having E-Dead fail on them.
"At room temperatures where all automotive sound deadeners work their best, a comparable butyl-rubber product will be about 35% more effective at automotive sound deadening compared to an asphalt-only based product" from the B-Quiet site. I would say that a of the products on the market (not Resonix) are rubber-based asphalt blends.

I would love to get the Resonix. In order for it to be used effectively, by their own recommendations, you have to do it all and their way. I understand this, can't (or just choose not to) afford this.
 
Has anyone tried this stuff from Amazon? says 0.1" thick (100ml) and $46.99 for 36sq ft. Looks a lot like the NVX stuff.

It's not anything like NVX, doesn't even look like it. It performed ok, on par with the midrange products like Second Skin Damplifier Pro and Stinger Roadkill Expert. NVX performed noticeably better, but until I can get it on the heat test rig, I can't recommend it.

You're claim of a 35% improvement for butyl products doesn't hold true. There are way to many variables for that kind of generalization. Even different butyl formulas that don't contain asphalt have different levels of performance.

BTW, there is no reason you can't use Resonix CLD on its own. Yes, ideally you would use a whole combination of products to treat the whole vehicle. But not using their other products does nothing to diminish the performance of their CLD, which as of yet, hasn't been touched by anything else.
 
I would love to get the Resonix. In order for it to be used effectively, by their own recommendations, you have to do it all and their way. I understand this, can't (or just choose not to) afford this.
I've kept my head out of this as I've said my peace before, but I just want to point out that you can do any of the main 3 treatments (resonance control, panel isolation, and noise barrier) by themselves with noticable results. It makes sense to do all 3 at one time to save yourself the labor of having to disassemble the interior and reassemble it multiple times, but it's not necessary.

Just doing CLD treatment by itself can make a noticeable improvement in driving comfort. As does panel isolation and rattle treatment. The only step that requires 100% completion for effectiveness, and is arguably the least important step as well as the most expensive and labor intensive, is the noise barrier layer.
 
It's not anything like NVX, doesn't even look like it. It performed ok, on par with the midrange products like Second Skin Damplifier Pro and Stinger Roadkill Expert. NVX performed noticeably better, but until I can get it on the heat test rig, I can't recommend it.

You're claim of a 35% improvement for butyl products doesn't hold true. There are way to many variables for that kind of generalization. Even different butyl formulas that don't contain asphalt have different levels of performance.

BTW, there is no reason you can't use Resonix CLD on its own. Yes, ideally you would use a whole combination of products to treat the whole vehicle. But not using their other products does nothing to diminish the performance of their CLD, which as of yet, hasn't been touched by anything else.
I gave you measured results in the hatchback that I used the product in. The info above was from a B-Quiet product review but isn't out of the realm of applicable science either. Again, nothing off the Resonix product line, and I don't think that anyone is taking that from the discussions here. There are benefits to using almost any of the products listed here for all sorts of reasons. Application, budget, results, etc. If it was just a matter of getting the best then my ride would have all Acuton drivers and Audio Wave CR-401 amplifiers in it too.

There is a place for all in these forums.

For the record, I think that Resonix is probably the bee's knees, I never said it wasn't; people want options, trying to share my experience and the legitimate outcomes, nothing more, nothing less.
 
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But when Chris shares the actual data and what a product can and can’t do you have some comeback about something you used a decade ago. I trust his testing way more than your opinions or some product data that’s written to sell product.
 
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But when Chris shares the actual data and what a product can and can’t do you have some comeback about something you used a decade ago. I trust his testing way more than your opinions or some product data that’s written to sell product.
It was just a comment about a product used 17 years ago that I liked. AND back then people really LIKED IT! Some kinda crime I guess...

Quit picking a fight about nothing to fight about, in case you hadn't noticed, nobody is keeping score. Quit insinuating that I ever indicated there was something wrong with Resonix, that it wasn't worth the money, or anything negative, SOME PEOPLE DON'T EWANT TO SPEND THAT KIND OF $$. Your opinion, my opinion, just observations.

Everyone has an opinion on all kinds of things and you know what they say about opinions, they're like a$$holes, everyone's got one!
 
I posted this earlier, but I'm standing by my recommendation for the OP to use ResoNix Lite. There is a reason why there is ResoNix Lite, standard ResoNix, and ResoNix Mega. Nick came out with the Lite version to offer something that's more competitive in price to the cheaper offerings. It's still a tad more expensive, but I can guarantee you there will be no melting, easier installation, and better performance even with the Lite version than any of the cheaper products. Also, make sure you use a flat roller or it WILL affect the performance. I used this one and it's nice...
Image


If a box of the Lite is still too expensive, then I still would recommend the Amazon basics. With that said, 1 36 SQ ft box is probably enough if you aren't doing your floors and headliner. Most people (like me) just want to do the doors and get rid of rattles in the rear from subs.
 
Awesome roller too! Thanks for the info, looks within range for some of us who want the product but can't afford the full monty!
 
I posted this earlier, but I'm standing by my recommendation for the OP to use ResoNix Lite. There is a reason why there is ResoNix Lite, standard ResoNix, and ResoNix Mega. Nick came out with the Lite version to offer something that's more competitive in price to the cheaper offerings. It's still a tad more expensive, but I can guarantee you there will be no melting, easier installation, and better performance even with the Lite version than any of the cheaper products. Also, make sure you use a flat roller or it WILL affect the performance. I used this one and it's nice... View attachment 408287

If a box of the Lite is still too expensive, then I still would recommend the Amazon basics. With that said, 1 36 SQ ft box is probably enough if you aren't doing your floors and headliner. Most people (like me) just want to do the doors and get rid of rattles in the rear from subs.
where to buy this roller? Name of roller?
 
I suppose this is what it all boils down to and why these threads trigger me.
No matter the budget ot goal of someone asking for deadener suggestions, people suggest the most expensive option, same thing happens with speakers.
Sommeone on a budget that just wants to help their doors or trunk, and has $500 into their entire system won't spend $2k on deadener. Those same people that dont have 9" door speakers on 400w might not need the highest performance option either.
agreeed. This discussion happened for me about 2 years ago when I put a small system in for my son. He received moms hand me down SUV, and we placed a modest 1000 dollar system consisting of odds and ends I have left over. Mind you the value of the car on a good day was 4K. We did a bit of deadner on it and I was being pushed by several to buy the Cadillac brand. In our case, it didnt make sense not only from a price point but from a goal stand point. My sons 100 dollar amazon purchase has done fine. He and I fixed the issues we wanted to fix, sounds better than before, and weve checked and no melting or movement issues.

Very similar to my co worker. His factory speaker died and he gave crutchfield a call. He got replacment speakers and said since the door panel is off, I put something in. He bought a 50 dollar pack of Noico to go with his 300 dollar investment in front and rear speakers.
 
I've used a few from Amazon - for reference:

These are total :poop:


A little better:


Better still:


Found it, just ordered it!


My dad always said it costs a little bit more to get good tools the first time around, but it's always expensive to go cheap!

Sometimes I just have to remember!
 
I've used a few from Amazon - for reference:

These are total :poop:


A little better:


Better still:


Found it, just ordered it!


My dad always said it costs a little bit more to get good tools the first time around, but it's always expensive to go cheap!

Sometimes I just have to remember!

Funny, I went down the exact same path except for the QWork one. The last roller is good.
 
What’s some good sound deadner thats around 4 ml thick that’s budget friendly?
Just buy some random brand elastomeric deadener sheets with foil coating. Most are similar material but a name brand will add substantial cost. Deadener has evolved from crappy tar based stuff that hardens and falls off over a few years, to compounds that retain their composition for many years. Just look for the amount of square footage you need then compare prices for different brands. The stuff is made in many countries now. My impreza had a brand from Russia. My forester has some stuff supposedly made in the US, can't remember the brand.
 
Just buy some random brand elastomeric deadener sheets with foil coating. Most are similar material but a name brand will add substantial cost. Deadener has evolved from crappy tar based stuff that hardens and falls off over a few years, to compounds that retain their composition for many years. Just look for the amount of square footage you need then compare prices for different brands. The stuff is made in many countries now. My impreza had a brand from Russia. My forester has some stuff supposedly made in the US, can't remember the brand.

Image
 
Just buy some random brand elastomeric deadener sheets with foil coating. Most are similar material but a name brand will add substantial cost. Deadener has evolved from crappy tar based stuff that hardens and falls off over a few years, to compounds that retain their composition for many years. Just look for the amount of square footage you need then compare prices for different brands. The stuff is made in many countries now. My impreza had a brand from Russia. My forester has some stuff supposedly made in the US, can't remember the brand.
That would be great, if all products had the same performance and reliability. But the don't. Period.
 
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