What’s some good sound deadner thats around 4 ml thick that’s budget friendly?
Absolutely. Send me a dm, or email me at sounddeadeningtesting@gmail.comLol I love sound treatment threads. 🤣 I don't know what's funnier the the ppl suggesting or the ppl that get offended by the suggestions. Ressonix is the best, everything else still works( just not as good). Choose something that's within your budget, doesn't melt, and doesn't smell like ass.....phalt.
@Chris Purdue. I'll be using the D4S deadner in my next project. Still haven't bought all of it yet, but I'll be using a combo of their 200,120,80mil . If it's alright with you I want to sent a piece of each to you. Just to add to the list of already tested. 😃
Soon as I have my hands on the other 2 sizes I'll send you a DM or email. Rather ship once with all 3. Thanx!Absolutely. Send me a dm, or email me at sounddeadeningtesting@gmail.com
Depends on which product you used. I recently tested this exact theory. I used Resonix and Resonix Mega as they are the current most expensive products, and the highest performing products. I compared them against the products that have some of the highest amount of reviews on Amazon, Killmat 80mil and Noico. I already knew from previous testing that one to one testing wasn't going to be equal. I made a guess, and cut one 5.5"x5.5" piece of Resonix and Resonix Mega. I cut three 10"x10" pieces of Killmat 80mil, and two 10"x10" pieces of Noico. It took two 10"x10" pieces of Killmat 80mil, layered on top of each other, to come close to the performance of an 5.5"x5.5" piece of Resonix, on the 11"x11" test panel. And even then, it still wasn't quite as good. Doing the math, that's 6.6 times as much Killmat 80mil. That makes it cost more money for the Killmat than the Resonix for the same performance. Of course, if you don't need that level of performance, that's a choice you'll have to make. But the idea that you can just buy more of a cheaper product for the same performance doesn't always pan out. It didn't with Noico or Killmat 80mil.I put about 100 sq. ft. of deadener in my car, that's not doubling up layers, just what it takes to hit most of the surfaces, and I didn't even do the floor of the cabin.
Cost me about $200
Resonix would be $1,350
Is there really going to be 5 times the performance?
I also used 15 feet of 3M Thinsulate 400, $135, so I'm still a grand cheaper.
To me, it's not worth the extra money for minimal return on investment.
I will throw my hat in the ring!Unlike speakers, there is actual testing and data that proves one is better than the other. Whether or not one chooses to believe the data. That is for them to decide. Testing data backs up the claim that ResoNix is one of if not the best CLD out there. There the controversy starts is whether or not the added price for said better product is necessary and worth it. Then you simply have the hatters that will bash it no matter what.
I suppose this is what it all boils down to and why these threads trigger me.Of course, if you don't need that level of performance, that's a choice you'll have to make. But the idea that you can just buy more of a cheaper product for the same performance doesn't always pan out. It didn't with Noico or Killmat 80mil.
I certainly understand your point. I used a mix of products including Resonix Fibermat and CLD. I used Thinsulate and good ole MLV. My entire sound system was under 2k not including deadening. The way I thought about it was that I was deadening once, components may come and go……..and I DO have SI TM8 in my doors! as part of a two way front stage only system. I feel it is good for inquiring minds to get ALL the ideas, pricey or not and then they can decide!I suppose this is what it all boils down to and why these threads trigger me.
No matter the budget ot goal of someone asking for deadener suggestions, people suggest the most expensive option, same thing happens with speakers.
Sommeone on a budget that just wants to help their doors or trunk, and has $500 into their entire system won't spend $2k on deadener. Those same people that dont have 9" door speakers on 400w might not need the highest performance option either.
I get suggesting better products more with CLD than I do with speakers. Speakers are a relatively low risk decision. If it doesn't perform well, you can remove them, recoup a good amount of their cost, and move on to the next.I suppose this is what it all boils down to and why these threads trigger me.
No matter the budget ot goal of someone asking for deadener suggestions, people suggest the most expensive option, same thing happens with speakers.
Sommeone on a budget that just wants to help their doors or trunk, and has $500 into their entire system won't spend $2k on deadener. Those same people that dont have 9" door speakers on 400w might not need the highest performance option either.
Well stated Chris. Deadening IS a foundational product!I get suggesting better products more with CLD than I do with speakers. Speakers are a relatively low risk decision. If it doesn't perform well, you can remove them, recoup a good amount of their cost, and move on to the next.
But you can't really do that with CLD. With CLD, if you find that it didn't perform well enough for your needs, you can't recoup any of the cost. I've seen too many people install a lower performing product, and then end up spending more than they would have with a better performing product trying to chase the performance they were after with layering or other diminished return install methods. I've even seen people buy expensive high performing product and put it on top of a cheaper low performing product because the first product didn't reach their expectations, which is worse than just buying the more expensive product the first time.
I mean, realistically, that's the whole reason I started testing. Because the first time I treated my vehicle, I spent way more money than I needed, because there was no testing, and there was a ton of misinformation out there. I could have easily gotten the same results, for less money, using better products for the job.
You asked specifically if Resonix would be 5 times better than what you used. My response is, it completely depends on what you used. It is absolutely 5 times better than some other products out there.
I think what I am gathering from everyone and the data posted is that the performance of the better products is better than worse products even when spending the same amount. Looks like the only thing to weigh is whether or not you can budget for the initial buy-in of a better product.I suppose this is what it all boils down to and why these threads trigger me.
No matter the budget ot goal of someone asking for deadener suggestions, people suggest the most expensive option, same thing happens with speakers.
Sommeone on a budget that just wants to help their doors or trunk, and has $500 into their entire system won't spend $2k on deadener. Those same people that dont have 9" door speakers on 400w might not need the highest performance option either.
I get suggesting better products more with CLD than I do with speakers. Speakers are a relatively low risk decision. If it doesn't perform well, you can remove them, recoup a good amount of their cost, and move on to the next.
But you can't really do that with CLD. With CLD, if you find that it didn't perform well enough for your needs, you can't recoup any of the cost. I've seen too many people install a lower performing product, and then end up spending more than they would have with a better performing product trying to chase the performance they were after with layering or other diminished return install methods. I've even seen people buy expensive high performing product and put it on top of a cheaper low performing product because the first product didn't reach their expectations, which is worse than just buying the more expensive product the first time.
I mean, realistically, that's the whole reason I started testing. Because the first time I treated my vehicle, I spent way more money than I needed, because there was no testing, and there was a ton of misinformation out there. I could have easily gotten the same results, for less money, using better products for the job.
You asked specifically if Resonix would be 5 times better than what you used. My response is, it completely depends on what you used. It is absolutely 5 times better than some other products out there.
Not always, but often. It’s a risk every person has to decide on themselves. My goal is to educate people on the risk. Essentially, if you decide you are ok with a lower level of performance, and once installed, you are happy with it, then great. But if you think that you can get the performance you want for less, and find out after the product you chose doesn’t meet your expectations, you’re now stuck spending more than if you had used the better product to start with. I found myself in that position the first time I built my car, and my goal with testing is to educate everyone else so they don’t end up in that same position.I think what I am gathering from everyone and the data posted is that the performance of the better products is better than worse products even when spending the same amount. Looks like the only thing to weigh is whether or not you can budget for the initial buy-in of a better product.
Probably wasn’t me, as I haven’t had my hands on thinsulate yet, but, it’s likely that that would improve performance.Chris, are you the reason I pulled out all the ccf I had underneath my mlv and replaced it with sm400 thinsulate?
If it's sold on a roll, then its nothing like what Resonix puts out. Rolling the product damages its performance. This has been shown in multiple tests.Might as well throw my hat into the ring too. I just laid up some of this NVX and like the way it rolled on, very tacky.
![]()
Amazon.com: NVX Stealth Black SDBBP40 90 mil Thick 40 sqft. Car Sound Damping Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Vibration Insulation and Dampening (Ten 18” x 32” Sheets) - Bulk Pack For Entire Car : Automotive
Amazon.com: NVX Stealth Black SDBBP40 90 mil Thick 40 sqft. Car Sound Damping Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Vibration Insulation and Dampening (Ten 18” x 32” Sheets) - Bulk Pack For Entire Car : Automotivewww.amazon.com
This works pretty well too
Only in the 120ml or thicker stuff though. The 80ml peels up around the edges, no Bueno!
The best I've ever used is a product that Elemental Designs used to sell called E-dead, the stuff was the bomb! I would buy it in 50 square foot rolls. It was very much like what Resonix puts out today.
Well, I should have saids it looks simlar, no way to know if is anything like it, no way to compare asI have not purchased Resonix.If it's sold on a roll, then its nothing like what Resonix puts out. Rolling the product damages its performance. This has been shown in multiple tests.
NVX performed very well, my only concern is its heat performance. There have been rumors that it's made in the same place that makes KnuKonceptz, which had issues melting. I can't confirm that, but I can't recommend it until I get it on the heat test rig.
Siless 80 mil performed pretty poorly. The 120 mil probably performs better, but not likely enough to put it in the top catagory.
E-Dead was a rubber/asphalt mix, which never performed well, compare to actual butyl products. It also had a very thin constraining layer, which doesn't help performance. Lastly, I've heard of many people having E-Dead fail on them.Ha, found an actual picture of the stuff I was talking about. It was 120ml thick, very unusual, innovative and ahead of its day back in 2006 when I did a car with it. Elemental Designs made really good stuff and had a very good following.
View attachment 408084
Now that could possibly explain why they are no longer around!!E-Dead was a rubber/asphalt mix, which never performed well, compare to actual butyl products. It also had a very thin constraining layer, which doesn't help performance. Lastly, I've heard of many people having E-Dead fail on them.