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Ok so we don't know if it's the amp going into a blocking state or the head unit stopping to supply signals.

This could be tested with a multimeter, put a solid tone out and look at the rms AC voltage on the speaker output of the OEM unit (you can probe the screws on loc inputs) and see if the voltage dies with the signal.

You could have a situation where the HU is detecting an abnormal load / synthetic load at higher outputs and shutting the channels off.

If the signal remains it's in the JL I would suggest, let's verify the source first.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Ok so we don't know if it's the amp going into a blocking state or the head unit stopping to supply signals.

This could be tested with a multimeter, put a solid tone out and look at the rms AC voltage on the speaker output of the OEM unit (you can probe the screws on loc inputs) and see if the voltage dies with the signal.

You could have a situation where the HU is detecting an abnormal load / synthetic load at higher outputs and shutting the channels off.

If the signal remains it's in the JL I would suggest, let's verify the source first.
Okay so I just did this test of the LOC inputs and the voltage didn't drop at all when the speaker died so the head unit works fine. I did the same test at the input for the crossover and when the speaker died, the voltage dropped from 2.5 to 0 immediately. So this means that the amp is shutting off that channel for some reason.
 
How would I test for short circuits in the wires?
Set your meter to ohms and put one lead on a speaker wire and the other lead to chassis ground. Doesn't matter what lead goes where. If you have a short you'll get a low ohm reading, if you dont it'll be up in the megaohm range, or just blank. Depends on the meter.
Check all the speaker wires.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Set your meter to ohms and put one lead on a speaker wire and the other lead to chassis ground. Doesn't matter what lead goes where. If you have a short you'll get a low ohm reading, if you dont it'll be up in the megaohm range, or just blank. Depends on the meter.
Check all the speaker wires.
Do I need to play a test tone? And can I just test the inputs for the crossovers instead of at the actual speakers?
 
Still have the spare set of speakers?
Or pull out your existing set if you dont.

Disconnect your car speaker wires from the crossover then wire up your spare set to the crossover with some short lengths of speaker wire.
If the problem goes away, then your speaker wiring is the culprit.

Problem persists, then move on with your troubleshooting, probably by just wiring a 6.5 directly to each channel then seeing if that fixes it.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Still have the spare set of speakers?
Or pull out your existing set if you dont.

Disconnect your car speaker wires from the crossover then wire up your spare set to the crossover with some short lengths of speaker wire.
If the problem goes away, then your speaker wiring is the culprit.

Problem persists, then move on with your troubleshooting, probably by just wiring a 6.5 directly to each channel then seeing if that fixes it.
I've tried this. My amp is shutting off the front channels for some reason. From the post above, do you know if I can wire my subs at 2ohms and the speakers be at 4ohms still? Or do I need to match the ohms.
 
I've tried this. My amp is shutting off the front channels for some reason. From the post above, do you know if I can wire my subs at 2ohms and the speakers be at 4ohms still? Or do I need to match the ohms.
The ohms is fine, you could have a different ohm speaker on each channel if you wanted to, as long as its above the minimum for that channel. All your channels can drive 2ohm loads.
If you bridge 2 channels, then has to be 4ohm load.

So you wired the spare set of speakers to the amp using new speaker wiring, without using the existing speaker wiring.
And connecting a 6.5 directly to the amp still sent it into protect?

If thats the case then still sounding like a gain structure problem or a an amp problem.

What's the EQ on the two front channels look like? Any significant boosts?
 
Discussion starter · #33 · (Edited)
The ohms is fine, you could have a different ohm speaker on each channel if you wanted to, as long as its above the minimum for that channel. All your channels can drive 2ohm loads.
If you bridge 2 channels, then has to be 4ohm load.

So you wired the spare set of speakers to the amp using new speaker wiring, without using the existing speaker wiring.
And connecting a 6.5 directly to the amp still sent it into protect?

If thats the case then still sounding like a gain structure problem or a an amp problem.

What's the EQ on the two front channels look like? Any significant boosts?
Yes, I've rewired them 4 times now to make sure. I'm using wire that was recommended to me at a local shop so I'm confident it isn't the wiring. EQ is flat shown in the very last picture of first upload. Also all of my gains are at about half of the max and these speakers should be able to handle about double what I'm giving them.

I'm setting the gain for the speakers by playing a 1kHz test tone, then increasing the gain until it detects clipping.

I also have 2 volume knobs, one for the amp and the other for the factory radio. I set the factory radio at 75% of max and the amp is set to max, then I test from there. If this is incorrect let me know.
 
Right so the amp is what's dropping here

It's highly unlikely to be a short, wiring or component given it's linked to output. More likely load, voltage or thermal issue.

Might be worth checking what the static DC impedance of the circuits are.
 
Yes, I've rewired them 4 times now to make sure.
I believe he meant "Did you cut a new piece of wire just to connect from the amp output to a spare speaker in your hand, or laying on the seat?"
Also, you have mentioned rewiring 4 times; are the posted pictures the current wiring? Looks like a lot of patched wire with butt connectors. I'm wondering if something shorted during the pictured install and took out those channels. Not trying to bust your 🏐🏐's. Just assuming that the pics were posted to aid in finding a visual potential.
 
Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
Right so the amp is what's dropping here

It's highly unlikely to be a short, wiring or component given it's linked to output. More likely load, voltage or thermal issue.

Might be worth checking what the static DC impedance of the circuits are.
I'm not sure how to check those things. I know that amp runs around 125F which I believe is okay. The 12V from the battery should be enough to power the amp correct?
 
I believe he is saying to check resistance at the amp speaker outputs, with the stereo off of course. Each front channel has the two speakers and a crossover, so measuring here will give the static load that the amp is seeing. The amp is stable at 2 ohms and the components are 4 ohm nominal so 🤷‍♂️
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
I believe he is saying to check resistance at the amp speaker outputs, with the stereo off of course. Each front channel has the two speakers and a crossover, so measuring here will give the static load that the amp is seeing. The amp is stable at 2 ohms and the components are 4 ohm nominal so 🤷‍♂️
Okay but what am I looking for? You're saying my speaker outputs should be at 2ohms?
 
JL lists your front speakers as 4 ohm nominal, so you should read something in that ballpark. I brought up the 2 ohm because even if you measured pretty low (like 3.5 ohms), then your amp should be able to handle it (2 ohm stable)
 
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