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Discussion starter · #81 ·
And on the amp software, it shows that channel A (the one not working) isn't playing anything, so the amp knows it's dead.
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Channel A input or output?
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It doesn't tell me input or output so I'm not sure. It just says channel A and a green light turns on when it's playing music, and no green light is on when the speaker stops playing.
 
Have you reset the amp since you fixed the 0.03 ohm issue? The amp may still be in protect from having a shorted output.
 
That's the other thing... might be worth connecting the front speaker set (passives crossovers and speakers) to the rear amp outputs now that you found/fixed the short.
 
You mentioned 85 degrees yesterday... if you're in the Tampa Bay area, I'm off today
 
Discussion starter · #85 · (Edited)
I got some new lugs for the power and ground terminals so I'm going to try those when they get here. Other than that I'm pretty lost and not sure what else to try. I'm west coast area.

Through some research I've found that my problem sounds like a ground problem or something with power. I tested my ground and it seemed good but you never know I guess.
 
Discussion starter · #88 · (Edited)
No, and I don't plan on it. I'm pretty sure I've just got something wrong so I'm trying to figure it out. I just switched from having a 60amp fuse to an 80amp fuse and rewired the power wire and ran it for like 10 minutes pretty heavily with no problems. I'm going to try to run it tomorrow during like the middle of the day and see if I still have this problem.

I honestly think switching to an 80amp fuse is the fix. I thought I was running an 80 but it was a 60. The amp recommends and 80amp fuse. Pretty sure that when I was turning up the volume it couldn't keep up. At least I'm hoping this is the fix.
 
The fuse for your power wire near the battery is for the wire, not the amp. The fuse size is determined by the gauge and length of wire. If the 60 amp fuse did not blow, then an 80 amp fuse will do nothing for your problem. A fuse blows when the current exceeds the fuse rating, that's all they do.
Personally, I would rewire anything that has butt connectors, wire nuts, and bubble gum with continuous runs of wire. A multimeter doesn't put out much current, and I have seen a wire ohm out correctly, but a short is present when there is enough current. You could literally have a butt connector that has broken insulation from the crimping tool and its touching another connector, or bare metal.
The fact that you had a bad crossover likely means that there is still something wrong after the passive crossover (your wiring)
 
Discussion starter · #90 · (Edited)
The fuse for your power wire near the battery is for the wire, not the amp. The fuse size is determined by the gauge and length of wire. If the 60 amp fuse did not blow, then an 80 amp fuse will do nothing for your problem. A fuse blows when the current exceeds the fuse rating, that's all they do.
Personally, I would rewire anything that has butt connectors, wire nuts, and bubble gum with continuous runs of wire. A multimeter doesn't put out much current, and I have seen a wire ohm out correctly, but a short is present when there is enough current. You could literally have a butt connector that has broken insulation from the crimping tool and its touching another connector, or bare metal.
The fact that you had a bad crossover likely means that there is still something wrong after the passive crossover (your wiring)
I've gone a foot from the crossover to the speaker and it still cut out. It's definitely not the wiring after the crossover

I've also taped up all my wires to make sure that there isn't a short anywhere.

I just played it for about 10 minutes and everything worked great, I was just sitting there letting it play, then it cut out and never turned back on. The speaker still plays music but its so quiet that it might as well be off.
 
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