1. Depends on your listening preferences, some folks never miss not having speakers in the rear some swear by them. Try turning them off for a few days and see what you think. If you don't miss them then you can use channels 3/4 to run your fronts active providing you have a DSP to handle the cover responsibilities.
2. In order of sq. Audiofrog GS series, CDT, AF GB series and HAT are pretty close.
3. I would think there would be some pre-made enclosures for the Tacoma, but yeah a single 10 is fairly anemic. I know there are some Tacoma forums you might visit if you haven't already.

 

Easy answer is "get better speakers", I looked them up on Crutchfield and they are on sale for $229, now I saw they have a lot of good reviews, but I serious doubt any of those reviews are from people "here". The Coaxials are fine for the rear (for now), so just try and improve your front sound stage. The front Tweeters are tiny and no amount of sound deadening is gonna make them sound good. You could probably de-tune them in the DSP software, but that will only reduce their ability to produce high frequencies.

So upgrading to better speakers should be your first priority, the AF GS would be a marginally upgrade (much better Tweeters), but the GB series would be a huge step up, I'd venture to say you would be more than happy with them, a vendor here has them on sale for at least $100 less than Crutchfield or you could look for a used pair and save even more!

If after sound deadening you still don't like the sound, time to dump the AC's and get Helix, Mosconi, JL or Audison DSP Amps... But def. swap up your speakers first...!

 

Thanks. The Infinity references were dirt cheap last Black Friday, so I snagged them but they never sounded right to me. Audiofrogs look amazing; the prices are a bit overwhelming though.

 

To answer 4, you have plenty of room for another amp. I wouldn't worry until your at 1500wrms (not peak) on your sub and then its usually just a AGM style of battery.

 

The Audio Control amp I have (at least from what they say) is 1200 RMS. They don’t list the max. So that’s pretty close. If I added, say, a monoblock, I would exceed that 1500 pretty fast. I haven’t noticed voltage or starting issues, but I haven’t checked the actual draw.

 

That AC amplifier is conservatively rated at 200 x 6 or 400 x 3 bridged at 4 ohms. In consistently amp dynos at over rated power (230 x 6) It's a nice piece of equipment for sure.

 

In order to get satisfying amount of bass, you need to get another 10TW3 8ohm sub & a dual 10" drop-in box to run the pair at 2ohms. Then get a mono amp with at least 1K watts. I ran a single 12TW3 with 600w in my last truck & I was never happy with it.
Before you toss the Infinity speakers, run the fronts active, cross the tweeters at 3khz & see how it sounds. Turn the tweeter gain all the way down at the amp & the headunit then gradually increase at the headunit. Run ch5-6 for the rear doors at lesser gain than the fronts.
What you get for the money from Infinity, JBL & some other brands have really gone down the hill in the recent years. The cheapest pair of separate that I usually recommend to my friends is the Focal Performance line if you're shopping at Crutchfield.

 

Thank you for the reply, and this is basically where my mind has been going. I already have the storage bin full with the JL sub in the Skar box, so why am i not just removing the bins? I can't use them. Any recommendations on where to pick up an enclosure? I could just build one I guess, but some are 100-200 bucks (which I would wind up probably spending on materials). Would it make more sense also to return the JL TW3-10 if i will have (a bit) more mounting depth? Enclosures I have seen usually are 4 1/2" - 5 7/8" mounting depth, depending on which one. I can probably get two new or almost new 10s (or 12s) for the $500 that JL cost. It's a great sub but also not very efficient (82 dB). The amp I will probably snag used somewhere, as used monoblocks are very common from what I have seen.

 

You'll have to cut the plastic trim behind the seat in order to fit most of these dual sub boxes. I would refer to a Tacoma specific forum for reviews on boxes that are out there. I do see most boxes have 4-1/2" mounting depth but it's for subs with magnet of certain diameter. Most likely, you will have to stick with shallow subs where the choices are limited. The downside, like you stated, is that shallow subs with decent SQ are all very expensive. I wouldn't worry so much about efficiency but consider high xmax. Reason I suggested you get another TW3 is because it's a good shallow sub & you already have one. The Alpines that I'm running are rated at 81db & with 1200w amp, I don't wish for more bass.

 

I ran a JL12TW3 in my Tacoma for about a year before upgrading to the SI BM MKV. The JL was no slouch and was a solid sub, but the BM is a step above in my opinion. It digs deeper and is more articulate than the JL. You'll definitely want to remove the rear bins to make more room for a bigger enclosure and like you said, you're not using them anyway.

Also, I'm currently running a Sony XM-GS4 (75x4) for my tweeters and mids and an Alpine PDX-V9 for my midbass and sub.I've not had any issues with the stock alternator since first installing a system in this truck over 12 years ago. Never had any voltage sag or lights dimming even when pushing the system hard. One thing to remember is that even though your amps might be able to output 1200W, your tweeters are likely only using 1-2W of power during normal listening so you should still have room to add more power before needing to upgrade alternators.

 

1. Depends on you I guess

 

Wow, your first post and you decide to resurrect a 7 month old post with a snarky, useless post even though the original poster's questions have already been answered. Good job...

 

flyinhawaiian968