This is my first time having an active system in my car. I have the alpine dsp and am going to use it for the front stage. The sub and rears are going to be passive. Am I missing something by following the alpine video on setting this up?
ardvark666
As indicated, good way to quick tune. REAL tuning takes hours, lots of trial and error. I've been at a bit and have exponential bits to go. You can only get better with experience, right? Or totally pissed off!
I have actually acquired a portable laptop screen and just use my one laptop as using my phone was tedious at best, impossible at worst.
For $100 you have everything you need for an expanded portable workstation that doubles as a TV dinner tray!.
I have actually acquired a portable laptop screen and just use my one laptop as using my phone was tedious at best, impossible at worst.
For $100 you have everything you need for an expanded portable workstation that doubles as a TV dinner tray!.
Will you be missing something? yeah you will, it's called SQ.
A good tune takes an experienced tuner at least 2-3 hours. A quick tune takes 1 hour. A 15 minute tune? just nah
The biggest flaw in this whole video is using a single, static mic. It's going to capture a shed load of comb filtering effects that you just won't hear with your actual ears, and that's going to seriously compromise the response of the system.
Measuring a single point in a car is just a waste of time. You MUST use the moving mic method. I honestly have no idea why anyone is still using this mic technique from the 90's.
That said, go for it - you have to start somewhere, and it will give you a baseline to improve upon.
A good tune takes an experienced tuner at least 2-3 hours. A quick tune takes 1 hour. A 15 minute tune? just nah
The biggest flaw in this whole video is using a single, static mic. It's going to capture a shed load of comb filtering effects that you just won't hear with your actual ears, and that's going to seriously compromise the response of the system.
Measuring a single point in a car is just a waste of time. You MUST use the moving mic method. I honestly have no idea why anyone is still using this mic technique from the 90's.
That said, go for it - you have to start somewhere, and it will give you a baseline to improve upon.
Fair enough. I’ll try my best to fit the tuning in when I can. Anything is better than the stock system in my truck. 80k truck and the stereo literally the second worst I have ever heard. Only radio worse than my new F-350 was my 2009 WRX. Subaru absolutely had the worst stock radio I have ever heard.
I have another question. Anyone have luck with the Behringer 8000 mic in REW? I have one I can use. Or I can pick up a Dayton I guess. The behringer isn’t calibrated but it might work fine.
I have another question. Anyone have luck with the Behringer 8000 mic in REW? I have one I can use. Or I can pick up a Dayton I guess. The behringer isn’t calibrated but it might work fine.
8000 will be near enough for a first go, any inaccuracies are consistent and will just change the curve you tune to, exception being through the crossover regions, but as i understand it (and looking at my mic calibration file) the majority of the calibration is at the top and bottom of the frequency range.
Assume you have a audio interface for it? If so i would skip the usb mics and go straight for XLR mics. USB is convenient but it makes things like impulse response extremly tedious.
Assume you have a audio interface for it? If so i would skip the usb mics and go straight for XLR mics. USB is convenient but it makes things like impulse response extremly tedious.
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