Sorry i dont have an answer but i do have a question LOL
Why a cap over a small lithium set up?

 

im not opposed to the idea. I’m also not sure the benifit over a cap ?

 

Maxwell, eton, skelcap and ioxus are the big 4 in ultra caps. And the only brand I would mess will.

Preassembled banks you are paying for the name branding and convenience.

 

Since we talking bout caps 😃 I have a question......

Do we need to worry about charging voltage (like lithiums) of the vihecle when running caps. 12v configuration that is... is there a wider range of play with caps.

 

It's the same as lithium except the max voltage per cell is the rated voltage. On lithium the rated voltage is nominal voltage not charge voltage

2.7, 2.85, and 3v are all options with ultra caps. So you just need the correct voltage in series to work for your voltage.
3×6=18v
2.85×6=17.1v
2.7×6=16.2v

It is not uncommon to use 6s 2.7v or 2.85v cells with 6s lto and undercharging them isn't the biggest detriment. Most common for car audio are 2.7v iirc

 

So when I was installing car audio ultra capacitors didn’t exist , at least main stream. I was referring to a normal capacitor not an ultra capacitor, however now I’m confused if I want an aux battery , a capacitor or an ultra capacitor. I’m overtime really sure how an aux battery or ultra capacitor (essentially a battery storing in electrostatic ) would behave with an electric car. The onboard dc to dc converter is good for about 160 amps max.

 

Regular capacitors are trash and always have been. Ultra caps can help fix slight voltage drop but they aren't a cure-all. Lithium batts hold voltage for longer but you need to pick the right chemistry for your charging voltage. Honestly lithium is kinda king but not everyone wants to deal with the cost or conversion

 

Supercaps from Maxwell 3kf cost as much as a LTO 40aH battery cell.
Both have their place, But the right lithium cell should come before supercaps.
Winkychevell named the most trusted supercaps. Caps from a few years back like the “stiffing cap” are junk.
How and why they still sell them is beyond me.

 

if you are looking for 1F capacitor, .... i have tested a few brands, and i found the NVX XCAP1F is pretty spot on capacitor rating. Rated 1F, you get 1F. many other brands, are not the case.
here's some testing results/methods i made. The nvx cap i tested was 1.3F.

Can Anyone Recommend Any Actual 1.0 Farad Caps?

Looking for verified via measurement real 1 Farad size caps for filtering car audio power. Does anyone know any brand that is actually 1 Farad? Thanks! P.S. I just tested / measured a 1 Farad rated cap and it was only ~0.3 Farad. Can post results here later. I'm only interested in real tested...

www.diymobileaudio.com

smaller size caps have their purpose, not just "trash" or "junk" if you have the use for that size, they can do the trick.

these guys are asking good questions, how much current will you be requiring? testing the vehicle with the system first is a good way to go. see what happens.
if you had the capability, you could test your dc/dc converters capabilities with just some loading resistors for short pulses of time to see what the system is capable of and what it's limits are.
if you put your system in, you would basically be doing this as well.

 

if you are looking for 1F capacitor, .... i have tested a few brands, and i found the NVX XCAP1F is pretty spot on capacitor rating. Rated 1F, you get 1F. many other brands, are not the case.
here's some testing results/methods i made. The nvx cap i tested was 1.3F.

Can Anyone Recommend Any Actual 1.0 Farad Caps?

Looking for verified via measurement real 1 Farad size caps for filtering car audio power. Does anyone know any brand that is actually 1 Farad? Thanks! P.S. I just tested / measured a 1 Farad rated cap and it was only ~0.3 Farad. Can post results here later. I'm only interested in real tested...

www.diymobileaudio.com

smaller size caps have their purpose, not just "trash" or "junk" if you have the use for that size, they can do the trick.

these guys are asking good questions, how much current will you be requiring? testing the vehicle with the system first is a good way to go. see what happens.
if you had the capability, you could test your dc/dc converters capabilities with just some loading resistors for short pulses of time to see what the system is capable of and what it's limits are.
if you put your system in, you would basically be doing this as well.

Small size caps are not worth the money, that’s been shown over and over again due to the tiny amount of storage and the time it takes to discharge them, then they are just a load on the electrical system

 

lol, we had this convo before
the 1F caps, true 1F caps, without those goofy circuit cards/displays on them (i removed mine) can act as low pass filter in conjunction with some modest cable/connector resistances, filtering higher frequency noise off of the power line. 1F with small resistance filters right around 20Hz and under. i don't have all the history in the world, i suspect this is how they started to be used waaay back in the day. and with good cause/purpose.

for supplying power to a big amp, I think generally speaking you need to be in the ~100'sF/1000W arena WITH low enough ESR to not drop voltage inside the cap itself.