Fuse ratings on the Mosconi amps are as follows.
AS200.2: 80A each
AS200.4: 150A

I am assuming when you say "an Ultra" you are talking about the Helix DSP Ultra. If so, the current draw for that is less than 1A, so it's negligible.

So if you were to pull full current, you'd be looking at over 300A before taking into account the actual electrical systems in the car. But you won't be pulling max current pretty much ever. Even if you play your music full tilt and you have your gains maxed out, an amp isn't going to be pushing full power with any level of consistency unless you are playing a sine wave. Music is very dynamic and uses a fraction of the available power 99% of the time.

Realistically, your speakers are only rated for around 1000w total. Those amps are rated at a combined 1600w at 4 Ohms. You shouldn't even be sniffing full power if you set things up correctly.

A 100% definitive answer is kind of impossible, though. Without knowing more details about how you have your system configured, what the current draw is on your car, what the full specs are on the alternator (idle vs peak output), etc, you really can't do the math. Rather than going though all of that, which will still result in a bit of guessing, I would recommend that you just test it. Sit in your driveway, play your music as you normally would, and monitor for any significant voltage drops. Turn on your A/C, heated seats, headlights, etc. to make sure you can run everything without issue.

If you see drops, you know you need to upgrade the electrical system. At the very least, you should do a big 3 upgrade and get a good AGM battery. But I would be surprised if you need more than that.

 

this is great advice right here below from @Hintzyboy
if you monitor your battery voltage and gets to 12.9V, 12.8V, 12.7V range that means you alternator cannot supply enough current and your battery is supplying current to the vehicle. (edit: make sure your alternator is on, modern smart system may disable the alternator)
ideally, this would not happen, you don't want to overload your alternator for longevity.

when i did something very similar to this myself, i was able to get my OEM electronics to overload my alternator by turning a lot of things on (at idle in driveway). so that pretty interesting indeed! and good to know about your vehicle, imho.

Rather than going though all of that, which will still result in a bit of guessing, I would recommend that you just test it. Sit in your driveway, play your music as you normally would, and monitor for any significant voltage drops. Turn on your A/C, heated seats, headlights, etc. to make sure you can run everything without issue.
If you see drops, you know you need to upgrade the electrical system. At the very least, you should do a big 3 upgrade and get a good AGM battery. But I would be surprised if you need more than that.

 

I run 2400w off my stock 160 amp alternator so I think you will be fine , when you have to upgrade your alternator is when It's not able to recharge or keep the the battery charged while you drive.

 

Indeed - you should be fine. I had ARC KS2500.1 (2848w @1ohm birth sheet and 3 woofers that could take all of it) and two JL HD600/4 on stock alt with AGM battery and the "diode trick" to get ~14.4v on a stock Toyota 4Runner alternator - fused with a 300amp ANL 1/0. Sure I'd dip into the upper 11's on hard hits, but that was rare, and never had a dead battery due to the system draw...

SMPS amps are not reliant on input voltage to make rated power, so unless you have unregulated amps (maybe the Mosconi's are?), don't fret having a bit of sag under hard hits/dynamic blasts (a "stiff" voltage supply is not as important as it was in the 90's).

 

Awesome guys thanx. Yea its got an Antigravity battery with 1500 CCA's. Appreciate the responses.

 

Also , you might wanna look into lithium ion as a second additional battery as an alternator aid / amperage reserve only for those surges of power/ amperage needs during peak moments or when your main battery needs it . I'm no expert in the subject so i still have dig more into this option but this is an option according to I believe his name is Myron from MB Enclosures. Good luck !!

Vibration Audio Blitz 5k - 5000w Lithium Battery

The Vibration Audio Blitz 5k is an incredibly fast discharging and recharging, LTO lithium battery. Featuring custom, billet aluminum buss bars, black

xplicitaudio.com

 

No need, just get good quality AGM and wires. Take care about ground connections to chassis and engine.

 

I used one of them cigarettes lighter chargers that displayed the voltage. Not the best to do this but mine wasn't off more than .2 volts. It also refreshes alot slower then the stinger one I installed after but it was close enough.

 

Jesus Christ you guys..... trying to give someone some general guidelines to start testing their alternator. this is good general advice, a place to start, despite your comments/criticisms.

@ItsonlyaHONDA if your car is "sitting high 12s" like you say, your alternator is probably off, not charging.
you probably have a "smart" alternator, that is disabled at that time and therefor you are just seeing your battery voltage.
you should really consider finding a way to disable those smart alternator features, then test your alternator capability.

if you guys were more up to speed on modern tools, you would suggest smarter voltage monitoring methods like using your car's built in OBD diagnostic port to get vehicle system voltage at faster rates, like 10x times per second. you could buy a OBD port adapter and connect it to your phone, sync that up and collect data and graph it afterwards, etc. yes do it while driving, but make sure the driving conditions are repeatable, really you should test over temperature to really understand how your alternator works at hot and cold. also, you should do it repeatedly and collect a set of data. you could also get your revs up in the driveway and take some measurements.

If your alternator is ON, then alternator voltage getting to 12.9V, 12.8V, 12.7V range is the right way to tell if the alternator is overloaded. you can do things to enhance testing, but that core concept is true.

 

There's nothing for my Honda, that's why I have 5s LTO cells . It may have a "smart" alternator system cuz when i turn my music on when its at low charging rates it goes up instead of down. The point is if his car charges normally in the high 14s and his dipping into the 12s it's way past needing an electrical upgrade. There's no need to get fancy with a test like this. Has nothing to do with beeing up to date with modern tools. The cigarette lighter charger was like 10 bucks and you can have one shipped of from Amazon quick. That's what I used and it worked just fine to determin the type of lithiums I needed to run.

Wasn't trying to offend you, just wanted him to know where he charges before trying to perform a alternator stress test. If you have battery product to suggest, go right ahead.

 

why not just clamp the positive leads, turn the car on, and see what the system draw is under load conditions?

 

Jesus Christ ( sorry ), If I would like to sound smart I would not forget to say that when you meassure with OBD you will get V measurement very close to V on alt terminal. Because OBD gets the info from ECU and ECU measures voltage close to alt probably directly in ECU and while ECU draws almost no current it will say very nice V.
The situation is different on amplifier terminal as there are many connections before amplifier and back with negative to battery. Every connection is increasing resistence plus resistence of wires and car chassiss. Current draw also affects resistence. Not to mention if you have not sufficent ground connection ( bad location ) and your system will try a lot of current the voltage will drop a lot but only close to amplifiers not on ECU or alt.

So the correct advice should bet measure voltage as close to amplifiers as possible ( terminals of amplifiers ) and get A clamp meter to measure current draw of audio system only. You will see 20 - 40 A with music anyway.

Sorry for my english, morning with no english keyboard in phone