is it necessary to run a 3-way speaker system in a car to have an excellent sound quality, or you can do it with a 2-way system ? By 3-way I mean: subwoofer + woofer + midrange + tweeter. By 2-way I mean: subwoofer + mid/woofer + tweeter
Just going back to the original post. I think most of us will agree it isn’t “necessary” to go 3 way but everyone’s definition of excellent is different and how much they are willing to spend to achieve it is different as well. When it comes to tonal accuracy it will be cheaper and easier to arrive at your definition of excellent tone with a 2 way, but in an automotive environment we are dealing with staging issues and to get all aspects of the music to appear to come from above the dash, it actually has to come from above the dash. Once you start spending big coin on tweeters to play low enough to achieve this, you are going to want them installed and angled correctly too. Now you’re looking at fabricating something…and at that point slipping in a 3” midrange into your custom work, which will play lower than any tweeter, starts to make sense. And of course you circle back to cost again, more drivers cost more, but actually when you don’t need the drivers to play far into their range, you can get by with more affordable drivers, except now you need more amplifier channels to power them.to have an excellent sound quality
I use widebander in my system,.... I ended up playing that mid a bit higher as I would run classic mid - at 4k@24dB/OctHow common is it to use a wideband for a mid in a three way? I know blam sells their three way sets with a WB mid, but I haven't seen it much from other manufacturers.
Is that tactic to give you a ton of wiggle room on the mid frequency and you wind up with a similar range to a standard mid range when it's said and done? Or would you actually use as much as possible with the WB mid and have narrower ranges on the MB and Tweets?
Thank you, makes perfect sense! Im too dum and lazy to do it, so there is a pro on it. But I really do want to understand as much as possible without driving him nuts with questions.Use whatever you can make use of. A smaller widebander might require a higher HP crossover point (500-600hz) but could maybe play higher without beaming(5-6k) than a normal slightly larger mid range driver which maybe starts to beam sooner(3-4k) but lets you choose a lower crossover point (250-400hz) ,these are just imaginary examples.
In general you would want to avoid crossing over in the midrange so a driver that gives you more bandwidth is preferable, but you have imo plenty of room to work with in any case if you’re skilled enough. Dont pay too much attention to categorisations rather than look at what individual drivers offer you in terms of specs and value for money