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Amp clipping on >min. gain setting. Is it broken?

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16K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  Stoopalini  
#1 ·
Hello, I've been slowly setting up my system since implementing a Helix DSP.3 into the midst.

I have a semi-active three-way system, planning to go fully active soon. Tweets and 3" are on a passive crossover, 6.5" midbass and subwoofer are separately amplified - so three amplifiers total (two two-channels and a mono).

It occurred to me that after balancing listening levels for each driver, the system is rather...quiet. I find myself using mid-3/4 of the head unit's volume scale in "normal' listening levels, without actually wanting to get "loud". I started from the beginning and re-did the gains. Both the tweeter/mid amp and the subwoofer amp seemed ok, taking a bit of turning the gain knob before clipping, but I came across a problem with the midbass amp - it clips at anything above minimum gain.

The midbass amp is a Focal FPP2100 which claims to do 2 x 100wrms @ 4 ohms (my midbass are 4 ohms). I have been running this amp for years, it's kind of old now and I haven't adjusted the gains since originally installing it in the vehicle to run the stock system, a passive 2-way setup (which of course didn't sound awesome, but was problem-free and could go "loud").

I played a 100hz -3db test tone at 38/40 volume which I know produces a clean signal. Clipping light also green on the DSP.3. What I can see on the oscilloscope, when connected to either channel of the amp, is that it does produce a clean sine wave, but only when the gain is turned to absolute minimum. As soon as I turn it clockwise, a square wave is produced. Vrms never goes above 16, which by my calculation is 64wrms, massively shy of 100wrms.

Is the amp broken? Why is this happening? I guess it's not a problem in that it works and produces sound accurately enough, but it's simply far too quiet and can't keep up with the rest of the system (which is turned right down in the DSP).
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
The amp has an issue. If focal will not warrant it for you. I would move on.
Receipts etc. are long gone, so warranty unlikely an option I'm afraid. Perhaps I can have it repaired somewhere, but I'll probably take this opportunity if the amp is unsalvageable to replace it with a four channel to add the missing two to make the system fully-active.

You are probably running it at a lower input voltage than it is rated at.

What voltage is your amps running at? I am guessing maybe 12v with the car turned off... instead of the 14.4V it is likely rated at? Just a guess...
This is correct, I was setting the gains with the engine off. But even so, I find it unlikely that a 14% drop in potential would cause a 34% drop in output
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
So are you running the signal from the headunit, through the new DSP, then to the amp? If so, it sounds to me like the signal in the DSP isn't staged correctly.

What does your O-Scope show for the signal coming out of the DSP, before the amp?
Correct, this is how I measured it. I haven't checked the signal coming out of the DSP, I'll do that and report back. I'll also try the head unit signal straight into the amp to see if anything changes. Thanks guys.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks for doing the research cman, that's fascinating I guess I was assuming nominal and RMS was the same thing. Perhaps you're right then, that it's all operating as intended. The speakers I am using for the midbass are Dayton DCS165-4 Spec sheet. Spec sheet reports an RMS of 100w, and the sensitivity seems to be about 83/85 db in the 75-200hz range which is where they are being filtered. As I was using stock speakers before I cant report on their sensitivity.

Maybe the answer is to upgrade the amp to a true 100wrms model and raise the sub/midbass crossover freq. Thanks again for pointing that out about the Focal amp, I was blissfully ignorant before thinking it was a good match for the midbass speakers :p